What do I need

[zephard]

I am looking at getting a gunite IG pool with the pebble sheen finish. I would be using a SWC and a cartridge filter. What would I need to clean my pool as far as brushes, cleaners etc? How often would I need to scrub/clean the pool? I know I need to order the testing kit recommend and I have read the pool school but need to read it again. Thanks

 

[UN1017]

Welcome to TFP

You've already read pool school so you're on the right track. You really won't need a whole lot of gadgets. In addition to the usual components that are part of the pool build (which you've already mentioned), you really only need a pole, net and brush.

As far as brushing goes, if you are talking about a new pool, you will be brushing a lot the first week. After that, you should follow what pool school recommends HERE.

 

[zephard]

Thanks for the reply. On the Pebbletech website it does say I need a nylon brush so that with the net, pole and test kit gives me a start. I want to do things right from the start. Thank you.
Heading over to read the automatic pool cleaner info in pool school.

 

[Isaac-1]

One thing I would strongly suggest if the work is not done yet, talk to your pool builder about laying out your pad with future maintenance in mind, all pipes should have union fittings, space should be left for splices, if ball valves are used they should be threaded with slip to thread PVC adapters, etc. Many pool builders seem to plumb pads as compactly as possible leaving no space to repair anything, instead the first time you have to change out a pump or filter, or even just add a heater, you have to rip out all the plumbing, and perhaps even jack hammer up the concrete if they plumbed fittings too close to the ground.

I would also suggest dedicated lines to all fittings, drains and skimmers, it does not cost that much more now, but can save you a fortune later.

Ike

 

[Patrick_B]

One thing I would strongly suggest if the work is not done yet, talk to your pool builder about laying out your pad with future maintenance in mind, all pipes should have union fittings, space should be left for splices, if ball valves are used they should be threaded with slip to thread PVC adapters, etc. Many pool builders seem to plumb pads as compactly as possible leaving no space to repair anything, instead the first time you have to change out a pump or filter, or even just add a heater, you have to rip out all the plumbing, and perhaps even jack hammer up the concrete if they plumbed fittings too close to the ground.

I would also suggest dedicated lines to all fittings, drains and skimmers, it does not cost that much more now, but can save you a fortune later.

Ike

This is something I have pondered many many times looking at new installs here and elsewhere. Why oh why do they build these manifolds to the equipment that there is no possible way to repair without a major cut out and re-do?? I look at these set ups and think of the horror I would have trying to cut in a replacement valve or some such thing. It just boggles my mind to look at some of these.

 

[tcat]

No kidding! I have a "built in" overflow valve next to my skimmer (center of big concrete deck). I always "thought" it filled when level went down an inch or two, and it drained when level when up an inch or two. I've looked at it several times and does fill when level goes down, but when it rains pool never seemed to go back to skimmer level (I always have to backwash if it gets too full). I'd assumed the drain port was clogged somewhere in the plumbing... finally decided to run a snake down the port and discovered the drain port was capped (about an inch into the concrete). Why would this even be installed if it wasn't going to get plumbed correctly? Seems things like this and the skimmer should be off to a side of the pool with no deck (or at least access to ports), not in the center of concrete where there are no options. Fortunately (or unfortunately lately) it doesn't rain much here and evaporation takes care of lowering the water level 90% of the time.

Having said that, I have same finish. As long as you have a good TEST KIT and don't let your FC get low, you shouldn't need to brush much at all. I brush maybe 2 or 3 times a year (and that was only when I let FC get to low and algae started growing on plumbing). Have a Legend that "came with" the house and does a good job keeping things clean (just bought a robot that should do even better). Leave some extra room around your equipment in case you decide to "expand" (heater, liquidator...) as Ike suggested. Good luck!