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Thread: Milky Blue Water

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    Milky Blue Water

    I got the Taylor test kit and discovered that my CYA was off the charts so I drained about 2/3 of the water from the pool and refilled last week.

    My current test results are:
    FC 0
    PH 7.4
    Alkalinity 100ppm
    Hardness 190ppm
    CYA 40

    It's a 13,000 gallon pebble tec pool with a DE filter that I cleaned and re-charged two weekends ago.

    I know I need to raise the FC. I've got a chlorinator with 3" pucks and will add a gallon of bleach per the Taylor analysis instructions. I also put a sock full of CYA in the skimmer to stabilize the chlorine.

    My question is about the color of the water. It's a milky blue; I can see to the bottom in the deep end but it's not clear. What should I be doing to clear it up?

    Thanks,
    Rick

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Milky Blue Water

    Welcome to tfp, rickmacc

    Quote Originally Posted by rickmacc
    I got the Taylor test kit


    What is your CC?

    Quote Originally Posted by rickmacc
    I also put a sock full of CYA in the skimmer to stabilize the chlorine.
    How much did you put in...you are already at 40 ppm and we recommend 30-50 ppm for cya. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...mmended_levels Also, granular cya can take a week to show up in test. cya can only be removed by partial drain/refills. Also, I would remove the pucks out of the chlorinator since they are adding cya as well. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-..._chlorine_pool For now I would use liquid chlorine/bleach.

    Quote Originally Posted by rickmacc
    My question is about the color of the water. It's a milky blue; I can see to the bottom in the deep end but it's not clear. What should I be doing to clear it up?
    Likely you need to do the shocking process. In that pool school article it mentions the OCLT, I would do that tonight.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Milky Blue Water

    Yeah, what he said ^^^^

    Those pucks are probably what got you into trouble with high CYA in the first place.

    And Welcome!
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    techguy's Avatar
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    Re: Milky Blue Water

    IMHO, you don't need to add stabilizer at this time. Take the sock out and let it dry for later.

    I just did this process with my pool with weekend. I would keep your FC up using only liquid chlorine and let the pool sit overnight (pump off) and then vacuum to waste whatever is on the floor.

    Mine was milky blue in the evening and looked milky blue in the morning (could NOT see liner design on floor). After I vacuumed to waste, it was less milky and more blue (but not clear). I could see the liner pattern on the floor. Then kept filtering, vacuuming to filter, and bumping my Perflex. It is much better now. I still have some floaties but the surface load is killing my with all my crepe myrtle mess (see my Pool Skim thread)
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

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    Re: Milky Blue Water

    OK, thanks everyone. I'll remove the CYA sock from the skimmer. I just added 1 gallon of chlorine bleach. I'll check the FC in the morning and go from there.

    Thanks,
    Rick

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