Starting Over-New Water
- Thread starter Larry65
- Start date
When I do the FC test, I wait until the water in the tube is perfectly clear. Most of the time, when I turn to record # drops, the water is pink again and I add & record more drops. Some advice? Do I stop when the water turns clear 1st time or when water stays clear? Also what FC and CC am I aiming for?
Test Results This Morning (Added 4 gals 8.25% bleach)
FC 4.0 (5.0 yesterday)
CC 4.0 (5.0 yesterday)
pH 7.2 (same)
TA 160 (same)
CH 210 (220 yesterday)
CYA 40
Cl 2
I keep adding bleach and don't seem to get any appreciable results.
FC 4.0 (5.0 yesterday)
CC 4.0 (5.0 yesterday)
pH 7.2 (same)
TA 160 (same)
CH 210 (220 yesterday)
CYA 40
Cl 2
I keep adding bleach and don't seem to get any appreciable results.
Stop when the water turns clear for several seconds. If you let it sit long enough it will always turn back pink.
Did you add 4 gallons of bleach or (4) 121oz jugs? 4 jugs would have only raised the FC by 15 ppm, that's not shock level for 50 ppm CYA.
Did you add 4 gallons of bleach or (4) 121oz jugs? 4 jugs would have only raised the FC by 15 ppm, that's not shock level for 50 ppm CYA.
I added 4 121 oz jugs 2 in morning and 2 that evening. This is 23 121oz jugs in 6 days. I initially shocked it the first day with 6 121 oz jugs. It seems all I have is questions. Do I need to reshock the pool. I was planning on adding 6 jugs in two days. In the past, I have shocked the pool after I have backwashed the filter (once weekly). The pool water is clear and has been clear since I opened 6 days ago. I just want to get into the TFP routine. However, it's quite frustrating to keep adding bleach and not seem to get needed results.
I've been advised that the CC is way to high, but I can't find what the recommended CC should be on the Pool CAlculator.
I've been advised that the CC is way to high, but I can't find what the recommended CC should be on the Pool CAlculator.
I don't mean to be rude, but you don't need to "reshock" your pool, you need to perform the shock process correctly. What you've been doing isn't shocking. You're just slightly annoying whatever is in there. 
The pool calculator doesn't have a field for CC's because it should be zero or not more than .5 ppm.
Spend a little time reading how to shock your pool correctly and then follow the instructions.
Once you've passed the OCLT, and if you keep your FC where it should be, you'll never have to "shock" the pool again. But you have to do it right first.
The pool calculator doesn't have a field for CC's because it should be zero or not more than .5 ppm.
Spend a little time reading how to shock your pool correctly and then follow the instructions.
Once you've passed the OCLT, and if you keep your FC where it should be, you'll never have to "shock" the pool again. But you have to do it right first.
As Bama said, you need to do the shocking process...it is a process and not a couple of applications of chlorine. This is particularly important in your case since you are fighting a lot of CC. As for testing FC, I would stop when the solution first goes clear for a couple of seconds, since it is likely your high CC is "bleeding through". Good news is chlorine will fix this high CC, but likely will take a lot so the more often you can test and dose the better.
What was your cya this spring (tested this spring) before the drain refill?
What was your cya this spring (tested this spring) before the drain refill?
I've reread the shock process. It refers me to the Chlorine/CYA Chart which tells me that at 40 CYA (my test result), the min FC is 3, target FC is 5,and Shock FC is 15. I assume from this that I should shoot for a FC of 5. The "Shock FC" is vague: Does this mean I should add enough bleach to get the FC reading to 15? or does it mean add 15 jugs bleach (I don't think so). Can anyone give me an estimate of how many 121 oz jugs to add to attain the level I need(from 4.0 FC and CC of 4.0). I've been diligently working at this but no one will give me any idea how much bleach to add. Will increasing the FC decrease the CC? I've read through the Pool School and any forum that I think would apply but can't find my solution.
You should be keeping your FC at (or slightly above in your high CC case) 15 ppm at all times.
Use poolcalculator.com to calculate dosing amounts.
Did you check cya before the drain/refill this spring?
Use poolcalculator.com to calculate dosing amounts.
Eventually. I am guessing (and it is just a guess) that you have ammonia in your pool. That will take a lot of chlorine to remove, but it will remove it.Larry65 said:
Did you check cya before the drain/refill this spring?
Use the Pool Calculator to figure how much to add. Test the FC and put that in the now field then put the shock level in the target field and it will tell you how much you need to get from now to target.
5pm 6/14 CST: Just tested pool water with following results:
FC-2.0
CC-5.0
ph 7.2
TA-140
CH-200
CYA-39
Went to Pool Calculator and entered all above info. It told me to add 3.5 121 oz jugs of 8.25% bleach, which I just did. Will check tomorrow am for new test results.
Am trying to bring CC # down to acceptable. Question: If CYA is a stablizer and tends to increase longevity of chlorine, should I add some stablizer. This makes around 18 121 oz. jugs of bleach this week. Sorry to keep asking, but I'm a little confused; when I get the FC to 15, will I need to keep adding these large amounts of bleach. I still have some tri-chlor granules from last year that I can add to raise CYA, but am reluctant because I think all my problems last year were due to high CYA levels. That is why I drained 75% of pool water (at risk, accd'g to pool store, of ruining my liner). Liner and water are fine and clear at this point, but am apprehensive about tomorrow's water test results. I had QA Chemistry 45 years ago in college and never thought I'd use it again!
FC-2.0
CC-5.0
ph 7.2
TA-140
CH-200
CYA-39
Went to Pool Calculator and entered all above info. It told me to add 3.5 121 oz jugs of 8.25% bleach, which I just did. Will check tomorrow am for new test results.
Am trying to bring CC # down to acceptable. Question: If CYA is a stablizer and tends to increase longevity of chlorine, should I add some stablizer. This makes around 18 121 oz. jugs of bleach this week. Sorry to keep asking, but I'm a little confused; when I get the FC to 15, will I need to keep adding these large amounts of bleach. I still have some tri-chlor granules from last year that I can add to raise CYA, but am reluctant because I think all my problems last year were due to high CYA levels. That is why I drained 75% of pool water (at risk, accd'g to pool store, of ruining my liner). Liner and water are fine and clear at this point, but am apprehensive about tomorrow's water test results. I had QA Chemistry 45 years ago in college and never thought I'd use it again!
Larry65 said:5pm 6/14 CST: Just tested pool water with following results:
FC-2.0
CC-5.0
ph 7.2
TA-140
CH-200
CYA-39
Went to Pool Calculator and entered all above info. It told me to add 3.5 121 oz jugs of 8.25% bleach, which I just did. Will check tomorrow am for new test results.
Good job using the PoolCalculator.Larry, you should check in an hour and add enough bleach/liquid chlorine to get back up to 15FC, shock level. Do this as often as you can, especially while the sun is off the pool. All the chlorine goes to fight nasties and none is lost to the sun. The part of the Shock Process that folks don't usually get is the NEED to continually raise FC back up to shock level as OFTEN as possible. If you are home and can do it every hour, that is great!
Am trying to bring CC # down to acceptable.
Following the shock process in pool school will take care of the CC. Question: If CYA is a stablizer and tends to increase longevity of chlorine, should I add some stablizer.
No, you are fine at about 40ish for now.
This makes around 18 121 oz. jugs of bleach this week. Sorry to keep asking, but I'm a little confused; when I get the FC to 15, will I need to keep adding these large amounts of bleach.
We cannot tell you how many jugs o'bleach it will take, but you got plenty of CC that has to burn off before the FC starts holding. You just have to keep hammering it
I still have some tri-chlor granules from last year that I can add to raise CYA, but am reluctant because I think all my problems last year were due to high CYA levels. That is why I drained 75% of pool water (at risk, accd'g to pool store, of ruining my liner).
Do not add any granular chlorine.
Liner and water are fine and clear at this point, but am apprehensive about tomorrow's water test results.
Stop worrying.
Yeah, let's be thankful it is just a pool and not rocket science
I checked water FC 1 1/2 hr after following Pool Calculator instructions. The reading was 1.5 down from 2.0 when I added the bleach. I have only 3 bottles left and will add it now--Pool Calc says add 3.6 more. Can't understand why the FC reading goes DOWN after adding bleach. Can anyone explain?
It is being consumed by the CC. Get several cases of bleach when you go to the store.
Remember, it will take a lot of chlorine to burn off the CC.
Remember, it will take a lot of chlorine to burn off the CC.
Just returned from grocery...out of bleach! Will head to Walmart tomorrow and get 3-4 cases and keep hammering! Thanks again for the advice and I hope all this effort pays off.
It will pay off. If you follow our methods, you will take control of your pool and keep it! :-DLarry65 said:
I think I'm catching on. I'm going to buy 18 gallons (5 cases) of 121 oz. 8.25% bleach and get a Pool Calculator reading about 5pm (when the sun no longer shades the pool), and follow its recommendations for a goal of FC 15; test again in an hour and, again follow PC instructions to get it back up to 15, and keep on doing that every hour until I get to 15. Hopefully when I get to 15, I can get control of the pool. I can tell if a dime is heads or tails right now, but the FC reading is too low. I read up on chloramides and think I see an end to this tunnel! Please advise if I'm not in sync.
Larry65 said:
Chlorine gets consumed by oxidizing organics and becomes combined chlorine. Chlorine then oxidizes the combined chlorine.
If you have combined chlorine that means your pool has organics (or most likely ammonia) which is consuming your chlorine.
You need to keep your FC level above 15ppm until
1) pool is clear AND
2) CC is zero
3) you lose less than 1ppm of FC overnight
This could mean that you are adding bleach every hour around the clock. Before when you had FC of 5, you were just wasting the bleach.
For your size pool (21K gallons) about half a gallon equals 2 ppm. Each bottle of 121 oz 8.25% bleach is approximately 4ppm of FC. So if you are at 11ppm, you would want to add at least 1 gallon (additional 4ppm).
If you get your FC to 15 it may immediately start dropping so you actually didnt keep it at 15. It might be better for you to shoot for 20 let it drop to 15, take it back up to 20 etc. That way it is always above 15.
Began shocking process at 5PM 6/15. Test results: FC 3.5, CC 2.0. Added recommended dosage of 8.25% bleach to get pool to FC of 15; went back one hour later and tested again: FC 7.0 CC 4.5; will add recommended dose as determined by PC again to get to 15. Question: Is there any explanation why the CC went UP after the first dose. My thinking was the shocking process was to lower the CC. I appreciate the advice on a Saturday evening.