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    new to this

    I hope I am posting in the right area. This is my third year of owning an above ground pool. I just purchased a Intes (?) 18' x 52". I live in the cold north which has had a very late spring and no summer to speak of to date. I leveled the ground and started filling the pool this week. I have a sand filter that I just started 2 days ago. It took about 3 days on and off to fill the pool from the hose. The hose from the house is not softened (not sure if that makes a difference or not). I also purchased a salt water chlorine thing that is supposed to make the chlorine (??). Maybe this goes without saying, but I am using a salt water system.

    The water looked fine when the pool was filling. The weather was cool (60's) with occasional rain. I added the salt (about 200 lbs) and I have the salt level right where it says I should be at just a bit over 3000 ppm. Shortly after adding the salt (1/2 day or so) the water turned green. It looks clear but just has a greenish hue to it.

    I will need to invest in a real test kit, I am seeing that. I have been using the strips and it says my PH and Alkalinity are both high. I believe my "free chlorine" was also high. In my former pool, I had a build up of what appeared to be iron? which was handled with a commercial iron remover (no idea what was in it).

    I realized I had not been running the pump correctly so I have actually only run it correctly for about 36 hours. (I had the flow in a nuetral mode so I assume it was not going through the sand). I put in 2 small bags of commercial shocking stuff (again not sure what is in it) and added about 16 ounces of a commercial product from Menard's said to lower the PH. I also added the "iron out" product, perhaps 10 ounces in hopes that would clear up the green.

    Here is my line of reasoning which may be completely unreasonable: since the weather was cold and the water was relatively cold and clear when I was filling the pool and it changed to green shortly after I added the salt, I am thinking it is not an algae problem but more likely an iron or copper problem??

    Should I add more Iron Out, shock the pool, keep trying to bring the PH levels down, add a stabilizer or just plan on swimming in a green pool if the weather gets warm enough?

    I appreciate any help and apologize that I have next to no technical knowledge about pool maintainance. My philosophy of last year with a smaller pool was to throw more chemical at it until perhaps the problem was solved or the problem was just masked.

    Also, I am pretty confused on the whole chlorine generator thing. I bought the one that looks like a small guitar because of the customer reviews. I believe it was a Saltron something. Any help in this area would also be appreciated. I have to go through the manual more carefully.

    I am finding this whole thing a little overwhelming.


  2. Back To Top    #2
    BoDarville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    DFW, Texas

    Re: new to this


    Welcome to TFP

    First question...Do you use well water to fill your pool?

    Quote Originally Posted by sahuds
    I have been using the strips and it says my PH and Alkalinity are both high. I believe my "free chlorine" was also high.
    "High" is a relative term. Even though you are using the strips, that's better than nothing.

    It looks clear but just has a greenish hue to it.
    This indicates the presence of metals (most likely iron) as opposed to algae in which case the water would be green & cloudy. Lowering the pH slightly and adding sequestrant should remove the color. The sequestrant will also prevent the metals from forming stains. Sequestrants slowly break down in the pool, so you need to add more regularly to maintain the correct level.

    Sequestrants based on HEDP, phosphonic acid, or phosphonic acid derivatives are the most effective. ProTeam's Metal Magic and Jack's Magic The Pink Stuff (regular), The Blue Stuff (fresh plaster), and The Purple Stuff (salt) are some of the top sequestrants. You can also find many other brands with similar active ingredients, some of which are noticeably less expensive.

    I will need to invest in a real test kit, I am seeing that.
    Here is a comparison of the recommended Test Kits.

    Finally, a couple of things to help us help you...
    • 1. Please include in your profile the state and nearest city in which you live. Your climate is important to the advice you receive. By doing this, it will appear in all your posts without you having to enter it each time.
      2. Suggest adding information about your pool and related equipment in your signature. By doing this, it will automatically appear in all your posts so you do not have to re-enter it each time. If you have a SWG, please include those letters in your signature so it stands out as the advice for SWG vs. non-SWG is often different.
    Here's how to do both of the above: Adding location to your profile and pool info to your signature.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

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