fas dpd results

[barbaradomanski]

Prior to doing test but after store gave me cya of 100 i added water to pool i actually didnt do it just to see if would help with cya but i had lowered to install thru wall skimmer quite a bit since not doing that i refilled pool back to normal level say probably increased 4 inches if looking at where level was on liner prior and after

Performed overnight ras dpd test here r my readings please advise
I had zero fc before adding chems and a ph 7.8 added 121oz bleach at 8.25
Waited thirty mins with filter on then performed test
Pm took 21 drops so 20x0.5=10 for fc
Pm took 1 drop so 1x0.5=0.5 for cc

Am test ( ive got to admit sun was already up for about 45 mins mins when got these reads
Am took 18 drops so 17x0.5= 8.5 fc
Am took no drops so cc is zero

i could not figure out the cya test im not really sure what u mean by cant see black dot...is it suppose to be completely unable to see or is it suppose to lighten to a sort of grey.
Ive done it three times and i always see the black dot so im thinking ive got a cya of zero.
Had to go to sun devil pool supply so i wanted to see what they got for cya ( i know everyone says dont let them test if u have the tf100. But i also know the cya is important i was bleachimg every night at 96 oz running filter 8 hrs and by am had zero fc.
So before i went messing around with this mucritic acid wanted to get some help on this cya readings
The pool store said my cya was 100. Maybe someone can help.me perform the test at home correctly because thats a huge diff. Maybe post a pic of what the black dot is suppose to look like while looking down tube for u to be able to take the reading. My black dot doesnt go away when i perform the test. Thanks for help on that
Ta is 12
Ph 7.8
Please advise on cya test and suggestions for what to add to get these numbers back more level. I will say my water is crystal clear and sparkling.
Thank you in advance

 

[BoDarville]

I'm having trouble following your testing procedure. Measuring FC and CC is a 2-step process:

FC:

• 1.Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 10 ml mark.
  2. Using the small spoon shaped end of the dipper, add one heaping dipper, or two level dippers, of R-0870 powder and swirl to mix. If the sample turns pink for a moment and then turns clear again, or if it turns brown, add another dipper of R-0870.
  3. Add R-0871 one drop at a time and swirl while counting the number of drops added. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
  4. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your FC level. It sample went clear after 20 drops were added, then FC=10. Do not discard sample, you will need it to perform CC test.

CC:

• 1. Using FC sample above, add 5 drops of R-0003 and swirl to mix. If the sample remains clear, your CC level is zero and you do not need to perform the remaining steps. If it turns pink, then proceed.
  2. If the sample turns pink, add R-0871 one drop at a time, swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
  3. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your CC level.So if you added 1 drop of R-0871 before sample turned clear, then you have 0.5 CC

I could not figure out the cya test im not really sure what u mean by cant see black dot...is it suppose to be completely unable to see or is it suppose to lighten to a sort of grey.

CYA test is best done outdoors on a sunny day. When pouring water/CYA sample into view tube, hold tube at waist level while standing with your back towards the sun. This provides bright indirect light. For more details on performing this test and all tests, see Extended Test Kit Directions

So before i went messing around with this mucritic acid wanted to get some help on this cya readings

Just to be clear, Muriatic Acid has nothing to do with CYA.

 

[hawkeye]

Id say never trust what pool store says,your cya isnt 100 i bet.. its there way of lying to you so you are never really shocking at the right shock level per yr cya level so your not adding enough chlorine to have crystal clean water just ok lookn water and yr spinning your wheels so to speak......if you have taylor test kit or equivalent kit make sure to mix half pool water and half reagent from kit.....get some powdered stabilizer and most likely get ready to raise it....hope this helps

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[barbaradomanski]

I did the two parts last nights results. Took readings last night 30 mins after adding chems
.my fc was at 10 and my cc was at 0.5
Performed this morning
My fc was at 8.5 and my cc was zero.
Based on that test is something eating my chlorine
When i use basic kit in am after adding 96oz of bleach night Before and running filter for 8 hrs every morning my chlorine is at zero testing with the basic kit that comes with the tf100

 

[Bluechip]

Do the overnight test again but make sure both tests are done with no sunlight at all. It's a pain to get up that early but it's the only way to perform the test. If it's less than 1ppm loss then you are ok. During the day if you continue to loose that much chlorine then you will need more CYA. Trust your tests. The CYA test can be difficult to read. Follow the instructions and you will figure it out. THe dot is supposed to disappear completely but your eyes can play tricks on you.

 

[Casey]

Have you manually added any CYA yet? If you hold the tube around your waist and look down into it, you will either be able to see the black dot or not. If you have CYA in your water, and it's registering in the tube, all you will see is cloudy water when you look down into the tube.

So, when you do this test, as you're adding the mixture to test for CYA, close your one eye (which ever one you want) and squirt the mixture into the tube until it starts clouding the black dot to where it disapears Once it disappears, bring the tube up to eye level and note which line it's sitting at. That will be your CYA level. If the black dot doesn't disappear, you need to add more CYA.

I hope I've helped you understand the elusive black dot.

 

[barbaradomanski]

Ok now i know how the dot should be with regard to disappear. Its was visible entire time...i will repeat tonite ang get up at 5am to do am.....look i know everyone says dont bring water to pool stores for testing im so new to all of this and i went to buy mucratic acid because pool calc said was needed. Ive done the cya test three times always see dot however when pool stkre did it they said it was 100. Please dont scold me about store thing im confusing about is i entered numbers got pool store were
Fc zero ( which ive been getting every morn after adding 96 oz of 8.25 chlorox
Total chlorine zero
Ph 7.8 ( my tf100 agrees with that
Ta 170
Cya 100
Total disolved solids 600
Phosphates 2500.
Guy said with phosphate so incredibly high and zero fc he asked me what color green is your pool. I said my water is crystal clear not cloudy and not green. He looked shocked said well U need phosfree for (45$) ive seen alot of posts here that say beware u never wont Have them conveniece you there is something you need that is never less then 30$. I said no ill chk with my people at tft. Looked at pool school learned phosphates is scam. So thank u to this forum for teaching me to Beware and always find ans here.
Anyway back to my confusion....if my cya is high at 100 yestrday pool had about 13500 Gallons since not putting in skimmer filled to where it should be so Now havec14500 gallons and new pool water added. Piil calc and pool store said to add 1 quart of mucracic acid but wont that increase the cya. Ive read pool school alot past two days while making some choices on upgrades.

Can u tell me beside redoing the fas Dpd test if my fc and ph right now is ok at least?

 

[JasonLion]

If the black dot remained visible the entire time, your CYA is zero. When CYA is zero, you will lose all of your chlorine to sunlight every day, so it is not surprising that your FC level reads zero.

Your PH is fine for now. If it goes up further you should lower it.

Completely ignore what the pool store told you. Even a novice using a good test kit is better than the average pool store.

 

[barbaradomanski]

Ok so they say cya 100 my tf100 says zero...to add or not to add that is the question..sorry couldnt help myself lol
Thinking best way is to not add anything but normal night routine especially since right now my water is beautiful, crystal clear as the day i filled it maybe better so im going to perform fas dpd test again tonite repost numbers and go from there.
For the am fas dpd results, my husband leaves for wk at 4am could he take the sample and leave it in a sealed bottle i get up at six could i do test that way..(.yup trying to avoid a five am wake up on summer break. ) He Can leave sample on porch which gets no direct light. Or does the sample have to be used within a time limit?

 

[Bluechip]

I would just bring it inside. From my understanding it doesn't have to be only direct sunlight that can destroy chlorine. On a cloudy day the suns rays will still get to the chlorine. Any time the sun is up then it's doing its work on the chlorine but at a slower rate than it would at noon.

 

[JasonLion]

You want to do the FC and CC test within a minute or two of taking the water sample from the pool. The FC level will change if the sample is left sitting in a sample container.