Where did I mess up?

cmiller73

Well-known member
May 1, 2012
262
Houma, LA
Pool Size
12500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I tore down a 21x52 round. Installed a 18x40x54 oval. I tried to use my same pump and filter setup.

I chose to move my pump to a more secure location, which is 65' away from the pool. I have 1 1/2" lines running for skimmer and returns. I also added a 2nd return opposite the skimmer side return. My return eyeballs are 2 different sizes. One came with the pool, the other I bought at the local pool store. The pool kit one has a bigger hole.
Should I get a smaller one to increase return jet pressure?

Filter pressure is normal, I just don't have jet pressure. I'm sure adding a 2nd return and extra lines took away some volume pressure from one line to the other.

What are your thoughts one increasing return jet pressures?
 
I would be worried moving a pump 65' away from the pool. It certainly takes some pump effort to move the water down 65' of pipe. The fact that your filter pressure isn't high might mean it is okay to be 65' away. I would worry about the pump burning out. I am not sure that jet pressure even matters. I would think that only the volume of water would matter. You need to move water thru the filter to clean the pool the pressure out of the jet doesn't matter. With two jets an the same volume the pressure would be less.
 
I did read about headloss over long distance Jason.

Should I have ran bigger return lines? The skimmer line has plenty suction.

Should I be planning to upgrade my pump to one with more GPMs? Could I use the same filter also or would I have to upgrade that also?

Here are some snapshots of the pump/filter specs.
 
Bigger pipe would have lowered headloss and increase flow rate, but that is not required. Why get a bigger pump? That would just use more electricity.

People (myself included) with 2-speed pumps run on low for general circulation and filtration ... that has half the flow rate of the pump on high and you barely feel it come out of the jets.

I am failing to see a problem here other that you "think" the jets should feel stronger.
 
jblizzle said:
I am failing to see a problem here other that you "think" the jets should feel stronger.

You are right. Comparing to before running one return, less than 10' of piping. Water is moving for sure, but just not swilring like before. Yes I do have 2X the pool now. Maybe I'm just being paranoid.

I got a co-worker that has 4 returns in his 16x33. He says in 5 mins that pool is spinning. However, when he takes an eyeball out of 1 of the returns, the rest of the jets fall off alot. His return eye openings are only 1/2".

To get more velocity out of the jets, I may just try smaller return eyes. Cheaper solution at this point.
 
cramar said:
Perhaps you can add a valve on one of the return port lines so it can be throttled.

That was a thought. Off the main return about 50' from the filter, I have a Y. 1 return line continues about off that Y about 16'. The other goes to the other end of tha pool about 35'. It's the one on the 35' that has less pressure. But the one by the skimmer has a bigger eye opening. It's about 1".
 
You can balance them with a valve or different eye sizes ... but the more restriction you add, the lower the total flow rate.

Smaller jets could get the bulk water spin a little more if that is what you are going for.
 

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Changing the eyeball size sounds like the least amount of work.

I'm sort of grappling with the same thing on my AGP, my solar heater empties directly into the pool instead of tying back into the return port, the final discharge fitting is larger than the eyeball so it's messed with the circulation a bit....I guess if all were dealing with this sort of minor problem then we must be doing ok!
 
Well, I changed out the main eyeball closest to the skimmer. It is also the closest one to the pump. Major difference. Now I have more velocity. Water "moves" more now.

Now to the water status.
Salt - 3200-3300
FC - according to the TF-100 I have no chlorine at all (water doesn't turn pink when adding R-0870), test strips indicate I do. K-1000 also indicates Total Chlorine at 5.
PH - 6.8
TA - 60
CH - 90
CYA - 80 - pool is in full sun and 85*+

Water is slightly cloudy, but I can see bottom.
 
FC - according to the TF-100 I have no chlorine at all (water doesn't turn pink when adding R-0870), test strips indicate I do. K-1000 also indicates Total Chlorine at 5.
The K-1000 (OTO chlorine test) is VERY dependable. Review your testing procedures for the FAS/DPD test (R-0870 and R-0871). I suspect you may have a testing error.
 
I followed the reference card in the FAS/DPD kit. Doing the Chlorine drop test my water didn't turn pink as it indicates. Not sure how I could mess that up, unless the powder is bad. It's kinda grainy. Is that right. Didn't even do step #3 under the Chlorine drop test.

To be clear, I did add 3 jugs of Clorox 121oz concentrate. Total of 363oz over 2 days.
 
Doing the Chlorine drop test my water didn't turn pink as it indicates.
Yet, the K-1000 chlorine test turns a fairly strong yellow when you add the R-0600, right? How close together did you perform the two tests?

Grainy is just fine for the powder. Disregard the strips.
 
duraleigh said:
Doing the Chlorine drop test my water didn't turn pink as it indicates.
Yet, the K-1000 chlorine test turns a fairly strong yellow when you add the R-0600, right? How close together did you perform the two tests?

Grainy is just fine for the powder. Disregard the strips.

Yes the R-0600 turn a very bright yellow. I did both test with 30mins. Drop test with powder was done 1st. I did the K-1000 test after.
 
Just to clarify, here is all I have done to the water.
Added 14 bags/560lbs Morton Pool salt.
12lbs CYA from Lowes
363oz od Clorox concentrated

I wasn't running the SWG until yesterday. I let everything mix well before turning it on. I did run it for 8 hours overnight @ 50%.
I will test chlorine levels again today.
 

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