Brand new poster with my test results

[suziequsie2945]

Ok, this is my very first post with results. I am using the TF100 kit.

I posted previously basically just introducing myself.

Again, I am new to this whole thing, so please forgive me ahead of time if I ask stupid questions. I have read the guidelines and all of the articles a few times.

We just opened the pool today. The water looks great. However, there are clumps of what looks like dirt at the bottom (see pics). I could easily assume this is dirt, but we did have an algae problem last summer that was totally cleared before closing. I do remember this stuff last year too though and recall being told it was dead algae., but not sure. Can you tell from the pics? What a headache that was last year because if I remember correctly, it kept coming back and back until I finally somehow got it all gone! This stuff didn't show up at first but reared it's head after the water circulated an hour or two and finally settled at the bottom.

Anyway, as for the results:

(Have not added anything to the water at all...Wanted to get my results in first):

Chlorine: 0
pH: 7.2.
TA: 70/80 (this actually states it should turn red in the directions but I actually stopped when it made a color change to pink...was I to keep going until it turns a deep red?)
CH: 300 (again, rather than turning blue like it said in the directions, it turned a shade of purple, which is when I stopped since it was a major color change).
CYA: 48-50

Now, I am confused by the pool calculator, so I may need your help at first.

We use liquid chlorine, so is this the same as trichlor? I notice that is what is under the chlorine section on the calculator. (Again, forgive me for my questions. My husband probably knows the answer but is not home at the moment.) I rather use the liquid chlorine than bleach.

As for everything else, we are looking pretty good, correct? From what I see, everything else is in within range but you may still suggest adding other things since we just opened it. I think my husband normally adds liquid shock after opening. Is this what we should do?

Besides having 0 chlorine and whatever that is at the bottom, everything is in at least acceptable range from what I can see, but then again, this is my first time.

 

[suziequsie2945]

I added pics but where did they go? Can you see them?

 

[jblizzle]

I added pics but where did they go? Can you see them?

Nope. Did you try to attach or embed the JPG URL in IMG tags?

 

[suziequsie2945]

I added pics but where did they go? Can you see them?

Nope. Did you try to attach or embed the JPG URL in IMG tags?

Not sure what you mean. I went to download file and it looked as if it added it and uploaded, but it doesn't come up with my post.

 

[jblizzle]

You should keep adding drops until the last one does not change the color any more, and then not count that last drop. Sounds like you were close to the end but may have needed a couple more drops ... close enough for now.

Liquid chlorine is the same as bleach (usually a different strength that varies from 6% to 12.5%) and is NOT trichlor.

Numbers look pretty good and I would suggest you start the Shocking Your Pool PROCESS since you have something in the water.

 

[suziequsie2945]

Now I know liquid chlorine is much stronger than bleach, so by using the pool calculator, how would I know how to convert what it says for bleach to liquid chlorine, if that makes sense. For chlorine, I have my goal as 2. Is that a good starting point?

 

[jblizzle]

I added pics but where did they go? Can you see them?

Nope. Did you try to attach or embed the JPG URL in IMG tags?

Not sure what you mean. I went to download file and it looked as if it added it and uploaded, but it doesn't come up with my post.

Download File??? ... There is a section in the Full Editor to Upload attachment. You should just be able to "Choose File" and then "Add the file"

If it is not too big, then the filename would show up Below the text box as an attachment.

 

[jblizzle]

Now I know liquid chlorine is much stronger than bleach, so by using the pool calculator, how would I know how to convert what it says for bleach to liquid chlorine, if that makes sense. For chlorine, I have my goal as 2. Is that a good starting point?

You set the % in the FC area on the right for the strength you are using.

And no 2ppm is not a good target. For a CYA of 50ppm, the minimum FC level is 4ppm and the shock FC level is 20ppm:
pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

 

[suziequsie2945]

Ok, so if I am taking the advice of shocking the pool to get rid of whatever is at the bottom, I am to get the chlorine up to 20, is that correct? Can we just use liquid shock (as they call it) to get to that point instead of continiuously adding liquid chlorine?

Also, am I supposed to be vacuuming this supposed dead algae to waste in the meantime or wait a day or two and then vacuum to waste, or can I vacuum normally without doing it to waste? Also, we got new sand put in today.

BTW, I meant to say that I used the Upload Attachment at the bottom of the full editor. It says upload in progress, or something like that, but the pic never shows.

 

[jblizzle]

Might be too big of a picture.

Vacuuming is fine whether to waste or the filter ... If there is a lot of debris, then vacuum to waste.

Why did you get new sand? That is rarely ever needed. Make sure to note the clean pressure on the filter and then backwash when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

 

[suziequsie2945]

Now I know liquid chlorine is much stronger than bleach, so by using the pool calculator, how would I know how to convert what it says for bleach to liquid chlorine, if that makes sense. For chlorine, I have my goal as 2. Is that a good starting point?

I'm confused when you say I am to adjust the percentage when using liquid chlorine because the calculator is set up for bleach. What percentage is the equivalent of liquid chlorine to 6% bleach? I am so confused about the calculator.

We got new sand because the sand was over 5-6 years old, especially since we had the algae problem last year too.

 

[suziequsie2945]

Hard to tell from the pic because I had to mess with it to make it smaller but maybe you guys can tell what it is. It's not green. It's dark, like dirt.

 

[jblizzle]

Read your bottle for the strength ... it is likely either 10% or 12.5%. It is all the same stuff, just different strength. There is a white box to the left of % bleach ... put your number in there.

Sand does not wear out and algae will not cause a problem with it ... you should be good for the 100+ years on the same sand.

 

[suziequsie2945]

Read your bottle for the strength ... it is likely either 10% or 12.5%. It is all the same stuff, just different strength. There is a white box to the left of % bleach ... put your number in there.

Sand does not wear out and algae will not cause a problem with it ... you should be good for the 100+ years on the same sand.

Here's where I am confused. I thought chlorine was much stronger than bleach?? The calculator is set up to calculate for bleach, so say my chlorine bottle says 10% and I put that in, isn't that only going to give me the results for bleach?

I asked above about using bags of shock to shock the pool rather than a ton of chlorine. This would seem so much easier than adding a ton of chlorine and waiting for it to rise to 20. At this point, I would not know how much to use. THis is all so overwhelming to me right now.

Also, what is Trichlor exactly, and do I need to worry about that?

 

[jblizzle]

Read Pool School: pool-school/types_chlorine_pool

"bleach" used to be 3-6% now changing to 8.25%. "liquid chlorine" is either 10% or 12.5%. Both are sodium hypochlorite ... same thing.
I don't know how to say this any differently.

trichlor is a solid form of chlorine that adds stabilizer as well ... you stabilizer is already at the top of the recommended levels.

I think you would be best served by stop worrying about the calculator right now and reading all of Pool School again so you start to understand the chemistry.

 

[suziequsie2945]

Ok, thank you for redirecting me there. Were you able to look at the picture?

Is there a reason you are avoiding my question about buying actual "shock" vs. the shock process? Just wondering if there is something about buying actual shock versus the process you recommend that I do not know about. Just need all the knowledge I can get.

 

[jblizzle]

Is there a reason you are avoiding my question about buying actual "shock" vs. the shock process? Just wondering if there is something about buying actual shock versus the process you recommend that I do not know about. Need all the knowledge I can get.

Yes. Because at this point you do not understand what the "shock" powder will add to your pool.

The power will either add CYA with the chlorine (dichlor or trichlor) or it will add CH with the chlorine (cal-hypo). You do not need either of this side-effects. Liquid chlorine / bleach does not have these side effects ... AND usually the $/ppm of FC is cheapest using liquid.

The shock process is unchanged regardless of how you add the chlorine ... you must maintain the shock FC level until the process is complete.

The powders from the store are not magic.

Yes I can see the picture ... vacuum it up.

 

[DebbieO]

Ok. I'll chime in. Shocking your pool is a PROCESS whether you use bagged "shock" or liquid chlorine. Bleach and liquid chlorine are one and the same--just different percentages in strength. Bagged "shock" is going to increase your CYA level which you REALLY don't want. It's also going to cost more money. You can keep dumping in bagged "shock" or pouring in chlorine to stay at shock level until you complete the shock PROCESS. If you want the "convenience" of dumping in bags of "shock" now, you will have a plateful of troubles in the near future because it is going to shoot your CYA through the roof.

 

[scott.MI]

I thought chlorine was much stronger than bleach??

Bleach and liquid chlorine are the same thing. It is a general principle that bleach is 8.25% some sometimes less (basically the chlorine strength) Generally stuff sold as "liquid chlorine" is 10% to 12.5% So 1 gallon of 8.25% bleach does not chlorinate as much as 10% or 12.5% (obviously because they are stronger" What your looking for is on the bottle the active ingredients will show Sodium Hypochlorite and then a % value. That is what would be considered the strength of your "Chlorine/bleach"

If you ever want to compare prices in regards to each being a different size or strength its as follows.

size of bottle (ounces) X strength of chlorine % =
128 oz X 10% Sodium Hypochlorite
128 X .10 = 12.8
Then take the cost of the bottle in Cents and divide by previous figure, this will give you a figure of how many cents per oz of sodium hyochlorite

So walmart has a case of 2 for 6.47 or (3.24 each) and its 10% and they are 128 oz jugs
128oz X .10 (10%) = 12.8
324/12.8 = 25.31 cents per oz of Sodium Hypochlorite

As far as the shock (product) vs shock (process) I think their packaging is what is confusing you. I believe the reason they label it (shock) is because if you follow the directions it chlorinates your water to the level needed to shock it. Shocking is the process of raising your chlorine to a high level, not just a product you add.

 

[scott.MI]

another way to look at it.

If a bottle of bleach lists sodium hypochlorite at 8.25 and the bottle says its concentrated,
then a bottle of liquid chlorine at 10% is just super concentrated bleach.

The reason not to buy the "shock" product is the extra ingredients that will raise or lower certain things you don't want raised or lowed. Could compare it to doing laundry. Lets say you have to wash something, but you don't want bleach in it. Would you want to use laundry detergent or a detergent that has bleach. In your case you need chlorine, so you can use liquid that is only chlorine, or you can use the power stuff that has the "extra" stuff

That's what the bags of shock are, little bags of gradual chlorine with "extra" stuff. Its the extra stuff why it is recommended not to use.