You need to be up and pool side right now checking your FC loss! It is very important to do this before the sun hits the pool in the mornings. 
Brand new poster with my test results
- Thread starter suziequsie2945
- Start date
haha! Thank you 
No sun here yet. Actually mostly cloudy right now, but there should be some sun later today.
I actually just tested the CC and FC for the loss test. CC is 0 and FC is 19. We were at 20 last night before going to bed, and the water has been clear this entire time. Looks like the process is complete.
So at this point, I guess I am holding off on testing everything else until the FC comes back to normal? How long does it normally take for it to do so, say without sun, and how about with full sun, how long does it take?
No sun here yet. Actually mostly cloudy right now, but there should be some sun later today. I actually just tested the CC and FC for the loss test. CC is 0 and FC is 19. We were at 20 last night before going to bed, and the water has been clear this entire time. Looks like the process is complete.
So at this point, I guess I am holding off on testing everything else until the FC comes back to normal? How long does it normally take for it to do so, say without sun, and how about with full sun, how long does it take?
Bluechip said:
Question for you: When do you run your filter, meaning from when to when? We sound a bit like you where we get late/morning afternoon full sun, no shade, the worst is at around 2-3 p.m. In the past, we used to run our filter practically from 9:00 am to 7:00 p.m. and looking back, I think that's way too much! We do get some early sun in the a.m. (really only on half of the pool), however. We're thinking of running it starting at 10 am to maybe 6 pm to equal an 8-hour day of filter. Does this sound right, or would we need more like we were doing last year since we do get some in the morning on half of it?
Every pool is different. Start with 12 hours and adjust down from there. Pool School has an article on suggested pump run times.
Re: Morning after our first attempt at the shock process
I didn't know this! Thank you for this tip
BoDarville said:
I didn't know this! Thank you for this tip
Ok, I restested everything again around 10:30 a.m. I am not sure if I should be testing everything at this point since the FC is still very high, but I did anyway so you guys can chime in if we need to do anything at this point.
FC: About 17.5/18
pH: Between 7.2 and 7.5
TA: 100
CYA: 40-45
The CYA lowered from 50 yesterday. We did get a lot of rain last night, which we had to empty, so maybe the rain is what lowered it.
At this point, what I see is that all numbers are within range, with the exception of FC which is due to shocking.
Is there anything we need to do other than wait for chlorine levels to drop to normal and then go from there?
FC: About 17.5/18
pH: Between 7.2 and 7.5
TA: 100
CYA: 40-45
The CYA lowered from 50 yesterday. We did get a lot of rain last night, which we had to empty, so maybe the rain is what lowered it.
At this point, what I see is that all numbers are within range, with the exception of FC which is due to shocking.
Is there anything we need to do other than wait for chlorine levels to drop to normal and then go from there?
I am keeping an eye on our FC at this point so I can get the hang of what to expect when it comes to levels dropping and how quickly it dissipates. I last checked it above around 10 am, where it was 17.5/18. I just checked it again now, 3:00 pm, 5 hours later, and it is at about 15.5/16 ppm. (Is this the average rate of drop when nothing else is going on that would decrease it's rate such as sun (other than of course the chlorine working hard to keep the pool clean)? There has pratically been ZERO sun all day today so far. A tiny bit in the early a.m., but only for a little bit. Otherwise, cloudy with a tiny tiny bit of drizzle. Again, water clear as can be and no sign of algae.
Here are our test results this morning after the shock process has been complete for 24 hours:
FC: 14
pH: 7.2, even a tad lower, maybe 7.0.
CYA: 38-40
TA: 100
CH: 250
Since we are not getting CYA from any source now, it is continuing to drop. We don't have sunlight right now but are supposed to get some later. At these levels, I am thinking we need to start adding some CYA somehow.
Here are my questions:
1. What is a good round-about number to keep CYA at. I know the range is 30-50 but what's the target to shoot for daily?
2. Since we have chlorine tablets on hand (I am assuming this is what is described as trichlor), is it appropriate to turn our chlorinator back on just to get some CYA in in a pinch until we can get some CYA stabilizer/conditioner at the store? Then again, I've read the tablets can lower the pH, and at this point, we certainly don't want to be doing that. If that's the case, we'd want to avoid them and I'm sure we can get out today to get some CYA stabilizer. Is it sold anywhere, or just pool stores?
3. What about our pH? I know high chlorine levels can offswing the pH, but it's looking a bit low right now. Not sure what to do about the pH when chlorine levels are still high.
FC: 14
pH: 7.2, even a tad lower, maybe 7.0.
CYA: 38-40
TA: 100
CH: 250
Since we are not getting CYA from any source now, it is continuing to drop. We don't have sunlight right now but are supposed to get some later. At these levels, I am thinking we need to start adding some CYA somehow.
Here are my questions:
1. What is a good round-about number to keep CYA at. I know the range is 30-50 but what's the target to shoot for daily?
2. Since we have chlorine tablets on hand (I am assuming this is what is described as trichlor), is it appropriate to turn our chlorinator back on just to get some CYA in in a pinch until we can get some CYA stabilizer/conditioner at the store? Then again, I've read the tablets can lower the pH, and at this point, we certainly don't want to be doing that. If that's the case, we'd want to avoid them and I'm sure we can get out today to get some CYA stabilizer. Is it sold anywhere, or just pool stores?
3. What about our pH? I know high chlorine levels can offswing the pH, but it's looking a bit low right now. Not sure what to do about the pH when chlorine levels are still high.
You do not need CYA!!!
I don't know why you are hung up on CYA and trichlor but you need to stop thinking about it and wanting to add it. You are at the mid range for CYA now and it does not disapate unless you start adding more water to the pool. That is the only thing that will lower CYA. You have not added water except what Mother Nature has added.
BBB is all about manually testing and dosing your pool water every day in the evening hours. The only thing that needs adjusted is your slightly low pH and you can do that with borax. Retest pH once your FC drops below 10ppm which should be by this evening.
You should step away from your pool and sit down and devote a few cups of coffee n maybe a pack of smokes, if you smoke, to Pool School and read up on everything and then read it again and again and again until you understand it. It's going to be a long and painful summer for you and that pool if you don't grasp why trichlor and CYA should not be used on a daily basis. That is not what we teach here at TFP. And besides that, your pH is already on the low side and trichlor is acidic which will lower your pH even more. It's all in Pool School.
I don't know why you are hung up on CYA and trichlor but you need to stop thinking about it and wanting to add it. You are at the mid range for CYA now and it does not disapate unless you start adding more water to the pool. That is the only thing that will lower CYA. You have not added water except what Mother Nature has added.
BBB is all about manually testing and dosing your pool water every day in the evening hours. The only thing that needs adjusted is your slightly low pH and you can do that with borax. Retest pH once your FC drops below 10ppm which should be by this evening.
You should step away from your pool and sit down and devote a few cups of coffee n maybe a pack of smokes, if you smoke, to Pool School and read up on everything and then read it again and again and again until you understand it. It's going to be a long and painful summer for you and that pool if you don't grasp why trichlor and CYA should not be used on a daily basis. That is not what we teach here at TFP. And besides that, your pH is already on the low side and trichlor is acidic which will lower your pH even more. It's all in Pool School.
Just be patient. FC will come down a couple points every day. When it dips below 10, test pH and add Borax to raise it.
I'd leave CYA right where it is so you have some breathing room. That way, if you want to go away for a couple days, you can use the trichlor to keep the pool chlorinated.
I'd leave CYA right where it is so you have some breathing room. That way, if you want to go away for a couple days, you can use the trichlor to keep the pool chlorinated.
Has it rained? Were you vacc'ing to waste? Did you add water?
Fresh water is the only way you can dilute CYA. You are at a good range right now. I, and many others, do not want to see you throw the numbers out of whack and have you back fighting a high CYA battle with a green pool.
Fresh water is the only way you can dilute CYA. You are at a good range right now. I, and many others, do not want to see you throw the numbers out of whack and have you back fighting a high CYA battle with a green pool.
I see you deleted the post quoting me (and I didn't quote you) so my response above is looking out of place but my answer to you will still remain. Good Luck with your pool. 
Casey said:
Casey: It has rained. We started at 50 and I noticed our levels dropping. Must have been from the rain. I assumed we would need to replenish it so it doesn't get too low.
Thank you for putting my mind at ease
. My panties are in a bunch because of what happened to our pool last year (major algea issue) and all of the time and money spent dealing with it and I am so afraid for it to happen again. I want to make sure we do EVERYTHING right this time.The funny thing is is that I have read pool school several times and when I think I am getting it, I come on here and am proved otherwise! I'll get it eventually! I think it comes down to practical experience. I can read and read until I'm blue in the face but I'm more of a visual person.
Some water was replaced so you may have lost a bit that way, but unless you had a foot of rain it was a small amount. The CYA test itself is not completely accurate. A lot depends on lighting and interpretation of seeing or not seeing the black dot. It could be read at 40 on one day and 50 the next or vice versa, especially with new testers. That is why it is not a test that is run all that frequently. Once a month is fine. It just doesn't change all that fast unless you are using the pucks.
Bluechip said:
Wow! This is great news
I am so glad I don't need to test it every day because knowing me, I would be going nuts with it!
yeah sounds like we are getting bogged down in semantics here:
Liquid shock = liquid chlorine = bleach (just that bleach is going to be less concentrated) - look on your bottle and it'll tell you the % - and you plug that into the pool calculator so it can tell you how much to add to get your goal ppm.
The liquid shock/liquid chlorine/bleach will raise your FC up without changing other parameters (like cyanuric acid or calcium hardness)
Other products sold as "shock" are dichlor and calcium hypochlorite and lithium hypochlorite - powders you dissolve and add - the dichlor will raise CYA and calcium hypo will raise your CH. With bleach/liquid shock/liquid chlorine all the same just diff %) won't.
Trichlor are tablets and have chlorine and CYA in them - since your CYA is upper end you would likely not want to use these, and you can't get shock level chlorine with them anyway - they are for maintaining chlorine levels after you shock away all the organics in your pool.
Liquid shock = liquid chlorine = bleach (just that bleach is going to be less concentrated) - look on your bottle and it'll tell you the % - and you plug that into the pool calculator so it can tell you how much to add to get your goal ppm.
The liquid shock/liquid chlorine/bleach will raise your FC up without changing other parameters (like cyanuric acid or calcium hardness)
Other products sold as "shock" are dichlor and calcium hypochlorite and lithium hypochlorite - powders you dissolve and add - the dichlor will raise CYA and calcium hypo will raise your CH. With bleach/liquid shock/liquid chlorine all the same just diff %) won't.
Trichlor are tablets and have chlorine and CYA in them - since your CYA is upper end you would likely not want to use these, and you can't get shock level chlorine with them anyway - they are for maintaining chlorine levels after you shock away all the organics in your pool.