Thought I had defeated mustard algae...

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Sir,

My first attempt at the shock process had me falling below the recommended level too many times in between my testing. I run a little high this time to make sure that it never falls below the 27-30 range that the chart suggests.

If you feel that I can back off on the level of FC, I will gladly do that. I simply want to "stay on top of it", meaning killing algae. It is sunny and hot, I was thinking that will diminish some chlorine on it's own?

dobber
 
dobber said:
I thought I had cleared up my mustard algae last week with "yellow treat" from united chemical company and liquid chorine
:
No obvious signs of mustard algae that I can see, but something is gobbling up my chlorine. CYA is high because I placed several 3in chlorine tablets in skimmers to try and get chlorine in pool!
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Just FYI. Yellow Treat and many other products from United Chemical are sodium bromide. They turn your pool into a bromine pool. How long this lasts depends on how much you've added, but it only declines through water dilution and slow outgassing of bromine. Because bromine doesn't bind to CYA, it will broken down in sunlight faster than chlorine, though the CYA in the water might help shield it better than not having any CYA at all. Anyway, that's not the best way to fight yellow/mustard algae. The only reason such products are sold is that they "work around" a high CYA level so that one doesn't need to shock with a high FC, but as you've found out it doesn't always work anyway.

As others have noted, you need to shock at a high FC level and get into the low-light places where the yellow/mustard algae prefers to hang out and grow.
 
Looking for some feedback after 2 days of shock process please. I have maintained an average FC of 39 for the past 2 days. The reason I ran high was so the level would never drop below the 27-30 the chart recommends for a cya of 70-80.

I have gone through 30 of the 40 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine that I purchased last week. I also ordered more of the R-0871 since I am testing every 2 hours or so. The pool is sparkling clear and my CC bounces between .5 and 1. Today is hot and very sunny, so I used a few gallons to maintain shock level. I am planning on doing the OCLT tonight. Since the pool is clear, should I add a little DE to my sand filter anyway, or is that just for when the water is cloudy? I do find a black residue on the backside of my skimmers at the water level when I go to brush, otherwise nothing else in the pool.

For those who have done this or are in the know, am I on the right path? Am I doing the right things? Should the FC level start to "settle down" and not fluctuate so much (unless it is hot and sunny)?

Comments please and thank you,

dobber
 
The DE is just to help clear a cloudy pool ... sounds like you do not need it.

At the high FC levels, you will be losing a lot of ppm during the day to the sun ... that is normal. Hopefully you pass the OCLT quickly so that you are not losing so much to the sun each day at such high levels ... although you also need that CC to drop.
 
Day 3 of the shock process...

Just missed on the OCLT this morning: FC dropped 2ppm, CC was not quite .5 (1 drop didn't quite do it).

Went to the pool store to purchase liquid chlorine and took water sample with me to compare. Was surprised at the difference her computer spit out compared to my TF-100 numbers.

TF numbers at 10am: FC 26 CC 1 TC 27 I added 1 gallon of chlorine at 11 am.

I headed to the pool store at 11.30am with a water sample to compare.

Pool Store numbers at 11:45am: FC 10 CC 0 TC 10

TF numbers at 12:30pm after I got home: FC 31 CC .5 TC 31.5

I tend to believe my TF-100 numbers. She did try to sell me copper algaecide, I declined. Was that correct?

Patience, perseverance, and your pocketbook-what's needed to clear up algae, right?

dobber
 
Day 5 of the shock process, planning on the OCLT tonight. I work 3rd shift and cannot make it home before the sun hits the pool. If I have my in-laws collect a sample for me to test an hour or 2 later, would that be OK?

The pool could use an inch or two of water, hold off until after the test (or even the shock process) or is it OK to top off the pool with fresh tap water?

I have been maintaining 31-35 FC with my CYA level around 70-80.

thanks, dobber
 
Letting the water sit will change its chemistry. Just do the morning test as soon as you can and hopefully any sun influence will be minimal.

Definitely keep your water topped off, no need to wait on that.
 
Thoughts please, my pool just flunked the OCLT.

I added a gallon of chlorine last night at 8:05 pm. Waited until 8:45pm to test FC = 43.

Just did the test and FC = 37. My CC is running .5 since yesterday and was still .5 this morning.

It has been a week, the water is spotless, I've maintained 31-35 all week long with my CYA of 70-80.

Am I close? Am I doing anything wrong?

dobber
 

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Unless the sun is hitting your pool since sunrise tends to be early this time of year, it does seem like you've got something consuming chlorine and that's not good. Check the skimmer, pump basket, and filter to see if perhaps there's something there chlorine can react with.
 
Not quite sure what I would be looking for. Both skimmers are clean and have been brushed daily for the past week. Pump basket likewise has been cleared when needed and the I'm willing to do whatever with the sand filter but not sure what you'd like me to look for? Or how exactly to do it.

Help and comments please..
 
The pool store test showed that I went from a CYA of 140 to 90. My TF-100 shows me with a CYA of 70-80 (again, that's me dropping until the black dot is completely gone). I was willing to dump gallons of chlorine in the pool at that CYA level, that's on me.

Is it your opinion that given the numbers, it is just a matter of time? I have noticed that the past 2 days my CC stays at 1 drop (.5) whereas it had bounced back and forth between 2 drops, sometimes 1 drop (CC 1, sometimes .5).

Is me lowering and then raising the water level (in other words, dumping water to lower CYA) a consideration at this point in the ballgame?

I realize how stupid I have been in this whole process, and how much I have learned since finding this forum.

Thoughts, please and thank you-dobber
 
The CYA lowers proportionally to the amount of water you replace. What you suggest replaces 18% of the water, so the CYA will drop 18% ... from about 75ppm to 62ppm.

Wait a minute, don't you have a SWG, so you are at the recommended CYA levels for that. I would not spend the money to lower the CYA by replacing water only to have to then add the CYA back in.
 

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