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Thread: I too noticed that my TA was high at 130

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    I too noticed that my TA was high at 130

    I finally just opened my pool for the season. I haven't done all not remeasurements yet, but estimated CYA based on what I had last year and the water added (from 50 to 37 with 25% water added). I raised the FC to shock level (15), and will monitor overnight. However, I too noticed that my TA was high at 130, and my pre-shock PH was 7.2. I started aerating as best I can by pointing the jet upward. However, I recall reading last year that PH readings are not accurate with high FC levels; how do I proceed if this is the case?

    I'll also add that I just added a heater, and I am kind of freaked out about maintaining proper PH levels for the sake of the life of the metal. Any reasurring or corrective words that can guide me?
    24' round above ground, 13500 gallons, vinyl liner, cartridge filter, Jandy Legacy 175,000 BTU heater, unused Zodiak Nature2 mineral sanitizer

    John 1:12 "But to all who did receive him, who believed in his name, he gave the right to become children of God"

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: I too noticed that my TA was high at 130

    Do not assume that your CYA is unchanged from last year. ALWAYS start with a full set of test results. Your CYA may have dropped to 0 over the winter ... or maybe it did not. Easy to find out by testing.

    Ignore TA. That was a fine pH to start the shock process. You are right the pH test is artificially high when FC > 10ppm.
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    Re: I too noticed that my TA was high at 130

    Thanks for your input. I now plan to test CYA tonight. I was under the impression that it didn't deteriorate over the winter (don't remember where I got that idea from).

    Are you saying ignore TA totally, or just here at startup? From last year's experience, I did see PH continually rise, so I expect a slow decrease of TA due to addition of muratic acid.

    Related to PH rise, would borates help stabilize or slow this?
    24' round above ground, 13500 gallons, vinyl liner, cartridge filter, Jandy Legacy 175,000 BTU heater, unused Zodiak Nature2 mineral sanitizer

    John 1:12 "But to all who did receive him, who believed in his name, he gave the right to become children of God"

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: I too noticed that my TA was high at 130

    Post a full set of test results. We have seen some cases where the CYA had a large drop over the winter, this was also often combined with very high CC readings.

    slightly TA is very low priority ... get everything else fixed and then you can work to lower the TA if you want ... or just maintain the pH and the TA will take care of itself.

    borates are completely optional, but one benefit is that they may help slow the pH rise ... of course you have to get the TA lowered before considering adding them.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: I too noticed that my TA was high at 130

    Quote Originally Posted by IL_WS
    Thanks for your input. I now plan to test CYA tonight. I was under the impression that it didn't deteriorate over the winter (don't remember where I got that idea from).

    Are you saying ignore TA totally, or just here at startup? From last year's experience, I did see PH continually rise, so I expect a slow decrease of TA due to addition of muratic acid.

    Related to PH rise, would borates help stabilize or slow this?
    CYA doesn't evaporate. That's probably what you're thinking of.

    But it can get lost either by a lot of rain, or snow pushing down on a cover and forcing it out, or sometimes some bacteria converts it to ammonia over the winter. If someone could isolate that stuff and bottle it up, they'd be a millionaire.

    TA is the last thing to mess with, when everything else is stable and balanced and you're bored. Don't even think about borates yet. If you add them you'll have a much harder time lowering TA afterwards.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
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    Re: I too noticed that my TA was high at 130

    Retested everything with TF100 kit:
    FC = 8.0
    CC = 0.5
    PH = 7.8
    CYA ~ 42 (much closer to 40 than to 50)
    TA = 170
    CH = 60

    When I previously tested TA, I didn't wipe the tip of the additive between drops as instructed. I am guessing that is why the results are so different. I guess it makes sense that it is improtantant since it is the only step of all that specifies it.

    As expected, the FC is high and still decreasing after being increased to shock level. I will test again first thing in the morning for overnight change.

    Next-day dawn gave FC = 8.5, CC = 0
    24' round above ground, 13500 gallons, vinyl liner, cartridge filter, Jandy Legacy 175,000 BTU heater, unused Zodiak Nature2 mineral sanitizer

    John 1:12 "But to all who did receive him, who believed in his name, he gave the right to become children of God"

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