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Thread: CC

  1. Back To Top    #1


    Hello all! Random question for everyone as I am just trying to understand how all of these pool chemicals work.

    I have been working to get my CYA levels up from 0 (I am now at 60) and with my SWG working at 30%, my FC shot up to 6- pretty exciting, considering this time last year CYA was zero and SWG was at 80%.

    Anyway, I have my FC back down to 4 (according to the pool school chart), but I'm just curious why, with proper FC levels, I get any CC at all? My CC levels are 0.2-0.4 at most, but I'm wondering why they show up at all with efficient FC levels? Full test results below, just in case they matter for this question.

    FC- 4
    CC- 0.2
    pH- 7.4
    TA- 70
    CYA- 60
    Salt- 3400
    CH- 800 (I know I know- I'm working on it )

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    13,000 gallon plaster salt water pool. Jandy DEV60 filter, Jandy AquaPure SWG (APURE1400)

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Isaac-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    SW Louisiana

    Re: CC

    This is a hard one to answer without knowing if you want the simple version or the college level chemistry version, going simple when your FC reacts with organic compounds it produces CC, which the FC will try to break down in time, UV light from the sun also helps break down the CC. As to the reason your seeing .2 -.4 CC chances are your pool is partly shaded, or it may get an above average amount of organic mater blown in, or may have high bather load, etc.
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from
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  3. Back To Top    #3
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Twin Cities, MN

    Re: CC

    Isaac gave a great explanation. Some low level of CC always exists (due to the reasons he listed), which is why we say more than 0.5 ppm CC to indicate need for the shocking process. In addition, the FC and CC test is really only accurate to +/- 1 drop at low levels.

    Which brings up this comment: There is really no need to have 0.2 ppm accuracy on the FC and CC test. I would switch to the 10 ml sample size where each drop is 0.5 ppm.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Re: CC

    Thanks for the reply! Like you said, if the only time to worry is >0.5, then I'll switch it up to the 10ml test. That'll save some $$ on chemicals!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    13,000 gallon plaster salt water pool. Jandy DEV60 filter, Jandy AquaPure SWG (APURE1400)

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