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Thread: Zero FC reading

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    Zero FC reading

    I used an Algaecide when opening along with metal out (had trouble all last summer (first summer with a pool) and decided to start the year out without metals!. Shocked. And have had cloudy water for 5 days. Added clarifier last night, getting better, but have yet to have a positive chlorine reading.
    TH: 400
    FC 0
    pH 7.3
    TA 160-180
    CYA 50
    Please help!
    18x36 ig, IN, sand, inline chlorine feeder

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: Zero FC reading

    Welcome to the forum. Well, where to start?

    Please tell us how you are testing...your own kit? What model? Pool Store? Strips?

    Have you found Pool School in the upper right hand corner of the screen?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Zero FC reading

    Welcome to tpf, poorfarmpool

    As duraleigh said, what are you using to get your test numbers? See this article for an appropriate test kit: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...kit_comparison

    Since your pool has been very low in FC and it is cloudy, it is likely you need to do the shocking process. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...king_your_pool. It is a process and not a one time "shock". Let us know if you have questions.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Zero FC reading

    HTH 6-way test kit. I have shocked it a few times over the past 5 days. Start up day used 4 pounds of 65% granular shock. Added Algaecide and Metal out this day as well. Added two more pounds on the second day. Two more pounds on the third day. Two more pounds on the fourth day. Added Borax each day as necessary to maintain 7.2-7.3 pH.
    18x36 ig, IN, sand, inline chlorine feeder

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    Re: Zero FC reading

    OH and added 25 oz of HTH clarifier yesterday. It is a little less cloudy today with a lot of solids fall out on the bottom, but still no FC. Have also ran the auto chlorinator at 10 for 12 hours a day each of the first 4 days and for the last 24 hours.
    18x36 ig, IN, sand, inline chlorine feeder

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    Re: Zero FC reading

    I did read some of the Pool School articles as well. Many more to look at over the weekend!
    18x36 ig, IN, sand, inline chlorine feeder

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    Re: Zero FC reading

    read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

    Then, read "How to Shock Your Pool".

    You need to stop throwing things into your pool when you do not know the outcome. These two articles will a) help you understand the basics of pool water chemistry and b) teach you how to shock your pool properly. It is NOT AT ALL what you have been doing.

    read those articles and post back some questions.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Zero FC reading

    I would recommend stop using the algaecide. It will not help you get your pool cleaned.

    Why are you using the metal out?

    Follow the shocking process as laid out in the pool school article I linked to. The idea is to get the chlorine up to the shocking level (for your cya level...you can use poolcalculator.com to calculate) and hold it there until you pass all three criteria.

    Is the HTH 6-way kit the drop based?

    If it is, it only measures Total Chlorine (TC) and not FC. Getting the fas-dpd chlorine test (not to be confused with the dpd test) will allow you to measure FC and CC so that you can do the shocking process.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Zero FC reading

    Have just read the articles. Didn't learn anything I didn't already know on the ABCs of Pool Chemistry. Followed the same opening plan as last year, with only the addition of metals out this year. Worked fine last year with same(or darn close) initial readings. Shock says to let circulate 12-24 hours before doing again, so every hour or at minimum twice per day is news to me.
    So, now that I have read the required reading, I still have my initial question of how to get FC up? I am afraid that just adding more shock will yield the same results. With the size pool I have and the readings I have the calculator says to add 4 pounds of shock. Did that initially with no change (still zero). If I try that again now, why would I get a different result?

    I verified my test kit reads FC. (I do have a basic understanding of chemistry (have a BS in it). Think the CYA may be blocking the chlorine. If it will hold it, think it will block it as well perhaps).
    Thanks
    18x36 ig, IN, sand, inline chlorine feeder

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    Re: Zero FC reading

    Metal out because I had a problem with reddish brown water line on my white steps all year last year and wanted to treat out the metals at the beginning of the year before the water was warm enough to jump in and enjoy.
    18x36 ig, IN, sand, inline chlorine feeder

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Zero FC reading

    Quote Originally Posted by poorfarmpool
    So, now that I have read the required reading, I still have my initial question of how to get FC up? I am afraid that just adding more shock will yield the same results. With the size pool I have and the readings I have the calculator says to add 4 pounds of shock. Did that initially with no change (still zero). If I try that again now, why would I get a different result?
    We would recommend you only use bleach/liquid chlorine and follow the shocking process (the link to that pool school article is above). To be most efficient you will need the fas-dpd chlorine test that measures FC and CC. Bring your pool up to 15 ppm FC (this is the shocking level for your 50 ppm cya level), use poolcalculator to calculate the bleach/liquid chlorine amount. Then in a hour test again and raise FC up to 15 ppm again. After a while the FC level should start higher longer. Continue with the shocking process until all three criteria are met simultaneously.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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