The temperature is what it is, the shock process is not changed. Although your water sounds hotter than would be comfortable to me 
Chlorinator cant keep up
- Thread starter uzun
- Start date
If you run the water through the panels at night instead of during the day, then the water shouldn't get as hot and might cool off depending on the air temperature at night. You might have to override the valve that directs water to the solar if its currently set by temperature.
The chlorine doesn't break down when its so diluted. It will outgas faster and will react with organics faster, but not more than double the rate for a 10ºF increase.
The chlorine doesn't break down when its so diluted. It will outgas faster and will react with organics faster, but not more than double the rate for a 10ºF increase.
I have a Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD test kit and I am having some trouble getting consistent readings at these high FC levels. I notice it's much more stable when I do the 25ml sample rather than the 10, but even back to back readings of the 25ml sample can vary by 1.4 or so, like 7-8 drops difference.
IS there some way to more accurately measure the amount of powder I add? It seems each scoop can be quite difference based on the size of crystals you scoop up. and theres always some remaining on the bottom of the little blue scooper.
In the 25ml sample especially it will go clear-ish with a slightly orange tinge long before you can get it to completely clear. I never know when to stop. For now I stop when it goes "basically" clear from the obvious pink color. That means it has gone from obvious pink to mostly clear with a slightly orange tinge.
Basically any hints on getting more reproduceable readings with the FC test in the Taylor K-2006 kit would be greatly appreciated.
-Roger
IS there some way to more accurately measure the amount of powder I add? It seems each scoop can be quite difference based on the size of crystals you scoop up. and theres always some remaining on the bottom of the little blue scooper.
In the 25ml sample especially it will go clear-ish with a slightly orange tinge long before you can get it to completely clear. I never know when to stop. For now I stop when it goes "basically" clear from the obvious pink color. That means it has gone from obvious pink to mostly clear with a slightly orange tinge.
Basically any hints on getting more reproduceable readings with the FC test in the Taylor K-2006 kit would be greatly appreciated.
-Roger
The amount of powder is not critical as long as it starts with a nice pink.
There are more details in the extended test instruction sticky in the testing forum.
There are more details in the extended test instruction sticky in the testing forum.
It held the chlorine level after 3days of shock. Now how do I get the fcl down? I guess run the solar all day and keep the pool uncovered until its down below 10? When can I swim again? At what FCL level should I turn the SWG back on?
Hopefully this will allow the SWG to handle the load again, the pool store people think its crazy but I'm hopeful.
Roger
Hopefully this will allow the SWG to handle the load again, the pool store people think its crazy but I'm hopeful.
Roger
Just wait. FC will come down on its own. It's safe to swim up to shock level for your CYA.uzun said:
Turn the SWG back on whenever the FC drops to to the target level for your CYA level. pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
Tonight the readings are 16 FC, and 2 Combined Chlorine. I didn't have any combined chlorine before. It was very sunny today, does the sun cause combined chlorine readings to go high? Is this normal or did the shock somehow not work? Throughout the shock process the Combined Chlorine was reading 0, now on the way down, I have 2.0 combined.
The sun will not increases the CC, in fact it helps reduce it. If the CC is high, you should continue the shock process
I'll let it get back down to normal and use oxidizer to get rid of the cc, and see how the SWG operates first before I go through this again. This really used a LOT of electricity and Chlorine.
Roger
Roger
This mornings readings were the same almost at 16 FC and 1.5 CC. At least FC stayed the same overnight and the CC went down a little or stayed basically the same. Readings are reproduce able again as well. I had a hard time getting the same reading twice in a row when it was around 30.
I swam today for the first time. The combined chlorine went away Tues afternoon. I dont know why there was combined chlorine but monday night and tues morning there was some. By tuesday afternoon it was down to 0 combined again.
The current FC reading is 11.5 with a CC reading of 0. I swam in it and I noticed the water now tastes extremely bitter. It wasnt like that before. Must be all the chlorine or something. With just the SWG the water tasted like sliightly salty drinking water, now its extremely bitter.
Still waiting for the FC to get low enough to test the SWG now.
-Roger
The current FC reading is 11.5 with a CC reading of 0. I swam in it and I noticed the water now tastes extremely bitter. It wasnt like that before. Must be all the chlorine or something. With just the SWG the water tasted like sliightly salty drinking water, now its extremely bitter.
Still waiting for the FC to get low enough to test the SWG now.
-Roger
Initially I used a pool store bottle to carry water inside from the pool to do my tests - I found it contributed to my combined chlorine level, even if I rinsed it out with pool water first - I suspect it was growing something even though it was always clean appearing. I now carry the little measuring container to the pool and collect water that way - CC always below 0.5 now.
It's been a few days now with the SWG back on. Shocking the pool the TFP way DOES seem to have completely cured the trouble. Before this there was never any free chlorine in the pool no matter how much I ran the SWG at 100%. Since the full shock treatment, if I run the SWG at 50% for 5 hours, the chlorine slowly rises a little each day. And I don't lose any FC overnight. Combined readings are always 0 - 0.2
I think I will try adding 2 lbs of Oxidizing Shock once a week to sort of forestall having to do this again, but you guys were 100% correct, despite following all the store advice on shocking the pool multiple times, I never TRULY got the job done. Doing it once your way restored the function of the SWG and my problem is solved, thanks so much!
-Roger
I think I will try adding 2 lbs of Oxidizing Shock once a week to sort of forestall having to do this again, but you guys were 100% correct, despite following all the store advice on shocking the pool multiple times, I never TRULY got the job done. Doing it once your way restored the function of the SWG and my problem is solved, thanks so much!
-Roger
Good work 
But there is no need to weekly add magic powder now that the water is clear and you are maintaining adequate FC.
But there is no need to weekly add magic powder now that the water is clear and you are maintaining adequate FC.