We usually ignore 0.5 ppm, at least when one is using a 10 ml sample size. It just means <= 0.5 ppm. You can always rerun the test using a 25 ml sample size which would then have 0.2 ppm resolution per drop. I suspect you've got <= 0.4 ppm and possibly <= 0.2 ppm CC. Just note that CC tends to build up in indoor pools because their is no UV in sunlight to break them down or to produce hydroxyl radicals from the UV breakdown of chlorine which tends to reduce precursor organics. So indoor pools often use supplemental oxidation such as non-chlorine shock (MPS), UV (technically not oxidation, but breaks down chemicals anyway), and sometimes ozone if special degassing is done.
New (to me) Indoor Pool - how to sanitize?
- Thread starter jeremy
- Start date
Before I start a new topic on the subject, do you have any recommendations about UV systems? I couldn't find a ton of discussion on TFP, but a quick Google search comes up with Spectralight and Trident.
I will probably have some limitation due to space in the pump room.
I will probably have some limitation due to space in the pump room.
I would strongly suggest holding off on any mechanical supplemental oxidation system until you determine if you need one, my indoor pool went 30 years with only occasional use of MPS for supplemental oxidation before I bought a UV Ozonator a couple of years ago off ebay as the price was right, which I have yet to get hooked up (it has been a LOW priority, new roof, new solar panels, new pool pump, .... have all taken higher priorities). Maybe I will get it done this winter wiring is in place, just need to hang it on the wall and run one length of plastic tubing, again no big rush as I only run into CC built up issues after large pool parties, etc, and those really only happen a few times per year on average for me these days, smaller parties like the one we had on the 4th with 9 people in the pool for several hours did not require any treatment. As a side note both UV and Onzone systems will have the side effect of increasing your chlorine consumption.
Ike
Ike
Isaac-1 said:
Ah, ok. good to know. I kind of just wanted to get a sense of *potential* expenses. Robots, automatic/motorized safety cover (to replace the manual one), now UV.
P.S. We finally got things under control and were actually able to use the pool yesterday. My kids were so excited!
The pool looks great, I love the layout and contemporary color scheme. On the topic of the cover replacement, (I know I sound a bit like a broken record here) but you may want to hold off until next spring, heated pools located in rooms where the air is cooler than the pool temperature can create an insane amount of humidity and condensation, having a "solar" style cover that does not breathe may help with the issue if you have one, which I suspect you will know about as soon as the weather turns cold. This is part of the reason I am very glad my pool is in a separate building from the rest of the house.
Ike
Ike
Thanks, I wish I could say we designed it, but this is how the house came when we bought it. I am sure we'll add our own touch to it someday.
I know exactly what you mean about the cover. We had an issue with the cover and were not able to close it for 24 hours on a rather cold/rainy day in April, and the condensation was insane. Since then though, no problems. The safety cover on there now (which I ALWAYS have on the pool when not being used) is a non-breathable cover that keeps the moisture and heat in the pool. The main reason for replacing the cover, is to convert to an automated cover. The manual type requires two adults to close it, and is a real pain. The conversion isn't cheap, and isnt a priority. I dont recall exactly, but since my cover is made up of two sides, it will probably cost $15-20k.
Also, the pool room has its own HVAC/ventilation, which is separate from the house. The doors the separate the house from the pool, are "exterior quality" so to speak. We treat those doors as if they go to the yard, and they are kept closed at all times.
I know that it's ideal to keep the temps a couple degrees warmer than the pool, but that isnt really practical throughout the winter, although the room is well insulated (other than all the glass). Like I said, with the cover on, condensation shouldnt be an issue. If the pool is open for a few hours at a time in the winter, hopefully it wont cause too much trouble.
Is there a recommend temperature and humidity level for indoor pools?
I know exactly what you mean about the cover. We had an issue with the cover and were not able to close it for 24 hours on a rather cold/rainy day in April, and the condensation was insane. Since then though, no problems. The safety cover on there now (which I ALWAYS have on the pool when not being used) is a non-breathable cover that keeps the moisture and heat in the pool. The main reason for replacing the cover, is to convert to an automated cover. The manual type requires two adults to close it, and is a real pain. The conversion isn't cheap, and isnt a priority. I dont recall exactly, but since my cover is made up of two sides, it will probably cost $15-20k.
Also, the pool room has its own HVAC/ventilation, which is separate from the house. The doors the separate the house from the pool, are "exterior quality" so to speak. We treat those doors as if they go to the yard, and they are kept closed at all times.
I know that it's ideal to keep the temps a couple degrees warmer than the pool, but that isnt really practical throughout the winter, although the room is well insulated (other than all the glass). Like I said, with the cover on, condensation shouldnt be an issue. If the pool is open for a few hours at a time in the winter, hopefully it wont cause too much trouble.
Is there a recommend temperature and humidity level for indoor pools?
I gave up on trying to climate control air around my pool a LONG time ago (although I am considering adding it back, at least heat, then I remember the insanely high electric bills), now I just have high volume exhaust fans to flush out the humid air if it is too bad, of course I am in a much warmer climate than you are. The foam insulation on the ceiling does a good job of moderating temperature swings though, and even in the heat of summer with the exhaust fans running it is not unpleasantly warm around the pool, in fact it can even be a bit cool if your getting in and out of the water (I use the solar panels for radiant night time cooling in the summer to keep the water from getting to hot, right not I am maintaining it at 84/85 degrees). As to the issue of glass I know what you mean the worst part is the condensation on the skylights resulting in ice cold rain on your back when your in the pool, hopefully my new skylight (installed this spring) will be better about that than the old one, I guess I will find out in a few months.
Ike
Ike
yeah, I havent used the heating or cooling yet and dont really plan to. I open the 8 skylights from time to time to let out some humidity and get some fresh air.
The two columns in the center are prewired about 15ft up so I might consider installing a couple large fans there to help circulate air. Not too sure it will do much, or if humidity will be a problem, but we'll see...
The two columns in the center are prewired about 15ft up so I might consider installing a couple large fans there to help circulate air. Not too sure it will do much, or if humidity will be a problem, but we'll see...
The exhaust fans I installed last year are thermostat controlled variable speed fans, when set on high they can exhaust the full air volume of the building in about 15 minutes, they are a bit loud on high though, still in the spring time it is nice to be able to rapidly exhaust all the humidity then turn the fans off / down and retain heat.
Still trying to understand, what do I do with this:
FC - 1
PH - 7.8
CYA - 20-30
Do I add acid? Bleach? Both? How much?
FC - 1
PH - 7.8
CYA - 20-30
Do I add acid? Bleach? Both? How much?
Add enough FC to get to 2-4 ppm and then keep adding what you need to keep it there.
Leave pH alone but watch it and reduce it if it gets to 8.0
Read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
Leave pH alone but watch it and reduce it if it gets to 8.0
Read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
pH drift and drift rate are effected by a number of factors, 7.8 is on the high side of the accepted range, but it is not critical to adjust yet, so acid dosing now is a toss us. The bigger concern is your FC is too low, you really need to make sure it NEVER drops below 2.0 ppm and a target level of 3 -3.5 ppm is reasonable. Having an indoor pool you can generally target a narrower FC range as you don't have to worry about daily FC burn off due to sun exposure. Having said that anything from 2 to 4 ppm FC as Dave mentions is ok. The key here is regular testing and dosing with chlorine. If you see your FC use go up without increased bather loads you need to do an OCLT (over night chlorine loss test) to determine if you have something trying to grow in your pool due to FC dropping below minimums.
Ike
Ike
Ok, I'll admit, haven't been testing regularly as we haven't used the pool much in last 2-3 weeks. Will add some bleach tonight and retest tomorrow.
In addition to getting your FC higher, test your Total Alkalinity (TA) and let us know what that is. Your pH may be drifting up due to a TA that is too high.