uv light

In an outdoor pool their effect in close to nil. The sun does a much better job of burning off CC, and if you keep your FC levels in the correct range based on your CYA level you should not have a problem with CC.
 
I have 2 indoor pools 95000 gal
44500 gal. the bather load in the 44500 is huge.
Both are indoor.cc has been a major issue.also
Have a 2000gal hot tub that within one day after a full drain I will see 0.6 cc
Very hard to keep the cc in check. All body's of water are located on a very busy sports club.im looking for the best way to keep the cc below 0.2 at all times.
 
UV is a good choice in that situation. Adding MPS at closing time each day can also help, though MPS is not as complete a solution as UV since the CC level can go up too much during a single day sometimes.
 
Thank you for the input. I think i will try the uv on the hot tub this week. I drained the hot tub last night and with in 15 hours i had a 0.8 cc not good,
we are open 364 days a year and close only 6 hours per day so it is very difficult to fight the cc level.how do other indoor pools/water parks ect, deal with it?
 
The four main possibilities are: UV, ozone, MPS, and very high FC levels. UV works well, but can be a little expensive. Ozone needs to be sized and installed properly, which is rare, and is not so good indoors because of air quality issues. MPS can work well in low and medium bather load situation, but gets overwhelmed at higher bather loads. Very high FC level don't completely work and tend to cause problems (like hair loss).
 
There is also significant water dilution, aeration strippers (removes volatile compounds), high capacity feeders (responds quickly to bather load so doesn't get behind in chlorine demand), microfiltration (removes dead skin cells and other particles better than sand filters), coagulation/flocculation with filtration (need slower vertical sand bed filters -- the rapid-rate horizontal sand filters just blow through coagulated particles), adsorption onto granulated activated carbon (part of the DIN 19643 method, but requires adding chlorine afterwards since it is removed in each circulation pass).

If you have biofilms, especially in the sand filter that is not uncommon in commercial/public pools, then there are biofilm inhibitor and removal products such as sphagnum moss, Aquafinesse, Spa System Flush, Ahh-Some, Multizyme (added directly to filter), etc.

None of these are needed in typical low bather-load residential pool situations, especially for outdoor pools.

There really needs to be a forum for commercial/public pool operators so that you can share your experiences and best practices, similar to what we do here at Trouble Free Pool for residential pools and spas.
 

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I think good air circulation is also important for any indoor pool facility and CC. I think i read something on USA swimming website indicating that as combined chlorine is oxidized into the air it has the potential to drop back into the water if the air circulation in the facility does not remove/replace air regularly. My facilities use large industrial fan equipment for this purpose; since we dont have dehumidifiers.
 
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