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Thread: Some questions about SWG

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    Join Date
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    Some questions about SWG

    I'll be brand new to SWG and to pool maintenance. I've started reading Pool School and plan to really go through it. However, I do have some questions before deciding to purchase my SWG system.

    FYI - I've decided to go with the Hayward SwimPure/AquaRite. I'm a complete newbie to pool maintenance, let alone SWG.

    Questions about SWG:
    1. How often do you recommend I check the levels in my pool?[/*:m:282epxwj]
    2. Is there a major difference between the test kits I see linked to from this forum and what I can buy at my pool store (Pinch A Penny)?[/*:m:282epxwj]
    3. How is the Salinity brand of salt? Can I buy coarse or is it worth it to pay more for the fine grain with stain inhibitor. coarse and fine grain.[/*:m:282epxwj]
    4. In addition to salt, what else will I need to have on-hand to sometimes add to the pool?[/*:m:282epxwj]
    5. Do I need to shock my SWG pool? Do I only shock it if there's a visible problem (algae or cloudiness)? Or, do I just let it run and adjust the levels of various chemicals/additives when necessary? Surge shock for SWG is sold at my local store (here) which is why I'm asking.[/*:m:282epxwj]
    6. If I do need to shock, will my SWG pool automatically come back down to a normal level of chlorine after the shock? I'm not sure how shocking works (and hope I don't need to do it on some regular basis with a SWG).[/*:m:282epxwj]
    7. Do you still run an automatic pool scrubber/cleaner like you do with a standing chlorine pool? If so, how often is that recommended?[/*:m:282epxwj]
    8. What will affect my pool's various levels of chemicals/additives and how frequently I need to adjust? Sun? Rain? Debris?[/*:m:282epxwj]
    9. Anything else I need to know about SWG?[/*:m:282epxwj]


    I'm definitely going to go through pool school on here but I'd love a basic idea of what I can expect from you all before making my purchase.

    Thanks!
    15K gal, IG plaster, screened, Marathon Electric 1 HP single speed pump, Hayward c-900 cartridge, Hayward SwimPure 40K SWG

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Some questions about SWG

    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    1. How often do you recommend I check the levels in my pool?
    See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-..._care_schedule
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    2. Is there a major difference between the test kits I see linked to from this forum and what I can buy at my pool store (Pinch A Penny)?
    I am not entirely sure what pinch a penny offers, but I am certain it does not have the FAS-DPD chlorine test (not to be confused with the DPD chlorine test).
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    3. How is the Salinity brand of salt? Can I buy coarse or is it worth it to pay more for the fine grain with stain inhibitor.
    Just get the solar salt that is in crystals, it is cheap and works fine.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    4. In addition to salt, what else will I need to have on-hand to sometimes add to the pool?
    With a swg you will need bleach/liquid chlorine to get the pool up to the swg FC level and then the swg can take over from there. In addition, you will likely need Muriatic Acid. Most likely you will not need much more than that, but we would need a full set of test results to be sure.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    5. Do I need to shock my SWG pool? Do I only shock it if there's a visible problem (algae or cloudiness)?
    You will only need to shock if your FC level drop lower then the recommended level and algae starts.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    Surge shock for SWG is sold at my local store (here) which is why I'm asking.
    I think you should stop shopping at pinch a penny Seriously though, most all you need is available at hardware stores and home centers, often for a lot less than the pool stores.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    6. If I do need to shock, will my SWG pool automatically come back down to a normal level of chlorine after the shock? I'm not sure how shocking works (and hope I don't need to do it on some regular basis with a SWG).
    You should not need to do it if you maintain an appropriate FC level. If something were to go wrong, the FC level will come down once you are finished with the shock process. If you do need to shock we recommend leaving the swg off during the process.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    6. Do you still run an automatic pool scrubber/cleaner like you do with a standing chlorine pool? If so, how often is that recommended?
    Yes you can, each pool and pool owner is different on how often.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    7. What will affect my pool's various levels of chemicals/additives and how frequently I need to adjust? Sun? Rain? Debris?
    Maintaining a swg pool is much like maintaining a bleach/liquid chlorine pool. The biggest difference is the swg pools tend to have more ph rise...but we can help with that too.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    I'm definitely going to go through pool school on here but I'd love a basic idea of what I can expect from you all before making my purchase.;
    We are here to help, but you have to be willing to help yourself as well. You will find answers to much of what you asked is in pool school. For example, see: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...ater_generator and http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-..._chlorine_pool

    Bottom line swgs are just another way to chlorinate your pool but you still need to be vigilant and test the right things regularly to remain trouble free.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Some questions about SWG

    Thanks for the responses. I'm making my way through pool school and the forum.

    Two quick follow-up questions:
    1. Why is the FAS-DPD chlorine test necessary?[/*:m:2naf989g]
    2. Will I want to use muriatic acid instead of CYA?[/*:m:2naf989g]


    I'm going to read up so I may find the answers before someone responds. I figured I'd ask just in case, though.

    Thanks.
    15K gal, IG plaster, screened, Marathon Electric 1 HP single speed pump, Hayward c-900 cartridge, Hayward SwimPure 40K SWG

  4. Back To Top    #4
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Some questions about SWG

    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    1. Why is the FAS-DPD chlorine test necessary?
    It is more accurate and will also measure FC up to 50 ppm.
    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    2. Will I want to use muriatic acid instead of CYA?
    I should have been more clear, sorry about that, you will use both. Initially, you will want to get your cya up to 70-80 ppm (what is your current cya level?) to protect your FC that swg makes from the sun. As you use the swg, your ph will likely go up and it is then that you will use Muriatic Acid (MA) to lower ph back down.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: Some questions about SWG

    Gotcha. So CYA is added and helps with protecting my FC level - otherwise more chlorine is lost to the sun? And I need to keep the CYA between 70-80 ppm for it to be most effective? (Seems like a small range...again I'm new to all of this)

    I see I want to keep my pH between 7.5-7.6 (again a small range so I can see why you all test so often). Once it gets up to 7.8 I want to lower it and I do that with muriatic acid?
    15K gal, IG plaster, screened, Marathon Electric 1 HP single speed pump, Hayward c-900 cartridge, Hayward SwimPure 40K SWG

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Some questions about SWG

    Quote Originally Posted by doglover78
    Gotcha. So CYA is added and helps with protecting my FC level - otherwise more chlorine is lost to the sun? And I need to keep the CYA between 70-80 ppm for it to be most effective? (Seems like a small range...again I'm new to all of this)

    I see I want to keep my pH between 7.5-7.6 (again a small range so I can see why you all test so often). Once it gets up to 7.8 I want to lower it and I do that with muriatic acid?

    Yes cya AKA pool stabilizer is used to protect your chlorine from the sun. You will have to maintain a higher FC level in the 5-6 range also which is easy once you get your SWG dialed in. Also once you get your cya up to the correct range the only way cya goes away is if you pump water out of your pool. So it is not something you will have to check everyday or even every month if you have not had to backwash or had a lot of splash out.

    I do my ph 7.4-7.8 but that is a personal preference. Once at 7.8 it takes about 32 ounces of muratic acid for mine to get it down to 7.4. I get the 31% stuff from lowes. $7 a gallon. I might use a gallon a month if that much. Also when looking for MA don't get that environmental safe stuff. I did when I started my pool last year and used 2 gallons and my pool ph didn't budge. Went and got the 31% stuff and it took a few ounces. Be careful when handling MA though and be sure there is no wind when pouring it in the pool. I made that mistake got a whiff of the fumes and thought I was gonna die. Spilt MA all over my new concrete and got some on my leg. Now I wear chemical gloves, rubber boots ,and a respirator.

    Other than that if you have a low TA you will need baking soda or if your PH is initially low borax or let the SWG take it up to within range if not terribly low.

    CYA is the biggest expense other than the salt. To get from 0 if you have no cya to 80 it will take several pounds depending on the size of your pool. Lowes has cya 3 pounds for $13. Also want to add cya in batches. Like if you know you need 8 pounds do not add it all at once. Do 6, wait a week, then retest.

    And the TFT test kit is a must if you are going to be testing your own water. Best $75 I spent on my pool and it helps out the board as a member is the owner of TFT test kits and they are a pleasure to do business with. Also splurge on the speed stir. I can test all my water parameters in less than 5 minutes with the speed stir.
    18x36 Grecian Vinyl; 8' Roman steps w/t 2 spa jets; cozy cove w/t 6 spa jets; 2 MD, 1 Skimmer, 3 returns; Hayward Ecostar, 30" Ranger sand filter; Hayward color logic 4.0 LED light; Hayward aqua logic; 2" PVC pipe 4 Jandy Valves

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