Removing debris at opening

Kir

0
Apr 5, 2013
30
Long Island, NY
I didn't see any posts related to my topic so just have a quick question. Had a service open our pool yesterday. We have a loop loc mesh safety cover so some debris has collected at the bottom while it was closed. They added what looked like a gallon of liquid chlorine and he recommended waiting until the water was clear and we could see to the bottom...then power vacuuming 1/3 of the pool debris (leaves and algea on bottom etc.), then shocking again and power vacuuming another 1/3, shocking one last time and removing the last 1/3 of debris. I'm new to pool openings so was wondering why one wouldn't power vac all of the debris out at once. Isn't the point to get the organic matter out of the water? The pool is pretty big 40k gallon L-shape. And my last important question...should we be following the "Pool School" instructions for shocking the water now or wait until all the debris is cleaned out? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
The only thing I can think of is this....

If you remove all the debris, then there are less organics in the pool to clean, thus less chemicals it will take to clean, thus less money the pool store will make.

Read Pool School here and the shock process and do that instead of what the store told you to do. I don't have personal experience with it myself, but I've read enough others' experiences here to believe what I learn here on the forum.
 
You can see to the bottom in the shallow end but not the deep end yet. I couldn't find anything on pool school about removing debris in conjunction with shocking and balancing the chemicals. In short, should I remove all the debris and then shock or begin shocking while I am power vacuuming?

@ Mike above...a pool service company opened the pool...not a retail chain trying to sell us chemicals. One would assume he is being honest about the procedure but perhaps he was setting us up for failure so we wouldn't be able to clear up the pool ourselves and would need to call him back to get it up and swimable. I know...these guys are all salesmen. He did try and switch us to a salt water system and I knew better than to fall for it thanks to all the experts on this forum.
 
I would scoop/vacuum until i couldn't tell what i was doing, then start following the POOL SCHOOL instructions for shocking your pool. Anytime i could see debris that could be vacuumed, i would vacuum or scoop them out. Do you have the means to test Chlorine levels above 5 PPM? Do you know what your CYA level is?
 
One word of caution about vacuuming what you can't see; I did just that about a year ago and got a few short sticks stuck in my suction lines. After a few more tugs on the vacuum I had a solid clog in the lines. After hours of work getting it out I still believe there may be a small stick stuck in there waiting for me to vacuum up a good pile of debris and clog it up all over again. My lesson learned: stick with netting out as much as possible and save
the vacuum for the really small stuff that you see.
 
My TF100 has not arrived yet so I went to the pool store for testing. I added a gallon of Clorox this morning and vacuumed to waste and then brushed the pool.

FAC 0
TAC 0
CH 90
CYA 0
TA 90
PH 7.3
TDS 200
Pho 500

The water was pretty clear (prior to brushing). So what are my next steps? Should I add or do anything while I am waiting for the test kit? They said it could take 5 days to arrive. Thanks!
 

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I brush and sweep/vacuum mine as much as possible when I am shocking, which I am doing so currently. I began the shock process (per pool school instruction) when I had debris in the pool, but I was and continue to remove it as I continue the shock process. I did not begin actively shocking until my cya was introduced to the water. The cya is necessary as it allows the chlorine to remain in the water and do it's job. Without it, your chlorine will be instantly consumed. If you had cya/stabilizer in your pool prior you still should have some in the pool. I could not get mine to register until the water warmed some (I put mine in the house to warm prior to testing). If you had cya in prior and have not changed out the water, I have read it can convert to ammonia. I don't know the science behind it (it can be read on the boards) but if your cya has converted to ammonia ~ you will consume chlorine at a more rapid rate than if it was just attacking organics/algae. Additionally if you dose for CYA ~ it will take a week to register if you go with the granular which you hang from a sock at one of your returns.

I work outside of the home so I move some water in the morning before heading to the office ~ I also check my shock level and adjust it for the day (I add a bit extra to compensate for loss while I am gone). When I get home from work, I am back at it ~ I always brush it a few times in the evening & I sweep/vac when I am able. Weekends I hit it full tilt.
My pump/filter are running constantly (this keeps the water moving as well)

Last week I spilled reagents from my kit so I had to limp along a bit, not testing as frequently as I like. Which I did monitor my shock levels & I kept the water in as much motion as possible, even though I wasn't able to test like I wanted/needed to.

I would let an expert advise you on your current cya level, but in the interim I would do what you are able to do to keep the water in motion: pump/filter running constantly & brush your pool as much as you are able. To shock properly you are going to need cya in that water. and it is difficult to maintain absolute levels without proper testing, but you can keep the chlorine levels up until your test arrives. Just don't go crazy with the chlorine until someone advises you what you should do about your cya.
 
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