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Thread: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

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    New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    Hello,

    New to the forum.
    New IG pool completed in October, has been open for 2 weeks
    Just received my TF 100 test kit.

    Results:
    FC = 2
    CC = 0
    CYA <20 (dot never even close to disappearing w/ full vial)
    CH = 280
    TA = 110
    pH = ~7.5
    I would greatly appreciate any advice!
    I know CYA is low. Added some 5 day ago (bottle from store). Recommendations? PB said >60
    Also, from kit instructions, it seems TA too high??

    Thank you in advance.
    35,000 gal IG w/ spa completed Oct 2012, grey quartz plaster, SWG (nature2 - no minerals), Jandy cartridge filter, Heater, Polaris 280 w/ booster

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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    Overall things look fairly good, nothing too far out, just get the CYA in line and keep the FC to CYA ratio correct is as you adjust it. Remember if using powdered CYA stabilizer that it takes a week or slightly more after it dissolves to fully register on the test.
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    Welcome to tfp, chaser

    First I would stop using the mineral portion of the nature 2. You do not want to add metals to your pool. Is the system you have also a Saltwater Chlorine Generator? If it is, I think(?) you can just remove the mineral cartridge...not having to use that will save you a lot of money in the long run.

    See this pool school article for the recommended levels for a swg: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...ater_generator

    Quote Originally Posted by chaser
    I know CYA is low. Added some 5 day ago (bottle from store). Recommendations? PB said >60
    The granular (powdered) stuff is much cheaper.

    Quote Originally Posted by chaser
    lso, from kit instructions, it seems TA too high??
    I wouldn't worry about TA for now, it will most likely come down since your ph will naturally rise and when you lower ph with Muriatic Acid (MA), you will also lower TA a little each time.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    If you added liquid stabilizer in sufficient quantity 5 days ago, that shows on the test easily within 24 hours. There is something amiss with your CYA report.

    How much did you add and was it liquid or granular?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    Thank you for replys.

    I only bought enough CYA to raise level 10 ppm (according to bottle), but I wasn't sure how much to trust pool store dipstick test and had read that I shouldn't overshoot so I was going to procede slow.

    Makes me wonder if they put any in at start-up. How much CYA should one add at a time?

    It seems SWG is having hard time keeping up with chlorine production, running 75% 12hr/day. Is that due to CYA level. Pool is in full sun ALL day. BTW water is very clear in daytime. Slightly particulate at night with lights on.

    ---------------------

    Never added mineral cartridge to SWG, after reading this forum.
    35,000 gal IG w/ spa completed Oct 2012, grey quartz plaster, SWG (nature2 - no minerals), Jandy cartridge filter, Heater, Polaris 280 w/ booster

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    Well if you started < 20ppm and added 10ppm ... you could certainly still be < 20ppm.

    If there is no reason to go through the shock process, I would add 40ppm more CYA, give it a week and test to see how close you are to the 70-80ppm recommendation and then top it off. This will certainly allow the SWG to not work as hard.

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    Re: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by chaser
    I only bought enough CYA to raise level 10 ppm (according to bottle), but I wasn't sure how much to trust pool store dipstick test and had read that I shouldn't overshoot so I was going to procede slow.
    The CYA turbidity test is a bit tricky to get accurate results.

    I recommend checking the Extended Test Kit Directions. It is very common for pool owners new to CYA testing to get a high reading, and think they have more CYA than is really there.

    I burned through a LOT of reagent before I learned to trust my CYA results!
    Matt
    9k gallon, plaster, IG. Raised spa w/ spillover into pool. AO Smith Century Centurion / Purex Triton WisperFlo 0.5 HP, Hayward 1.5 HP (spa), Polaris 1-516-01 1.5 HP (blower). Hayward DE3620 36 ft2 72 GPM DE Filter, Polaris 145 cleaner. Pool built ~1980.
    Trouble-free, BBB since: April 25, 2013

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    Re: New pool, New pool owner, New test kit . . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by chaser
    Never added mineral cartridge to SWG, after reading this forum.


    Quote Originally Posted by chaser
    It seems SWG is having hard time keeping up with chlorine production, running 75% 12hr/day. Is that due to CYA level. Pool is in full sun ALL day. BTW water is very clear in daytime. Slightly particulate at night with lights on.
    I agree with jbliz that your lack of cya is likely the cause of the demand on your swg. For sanity, you may want to raise your FC level up to 11 ppm tonight with bleach/liquid chlorine and do a OCLT with the swg off. This will confirm (or not) that the pool is algae free...but I would guess it is from your description of water. If by misfortune you have algae, it will be easier to eradicate at the lower cya level.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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