Pool Light Schematic with Hallway switches and GFIC

Apr 18, 2013
10
Guys,
I'm still working on my electrical, getting ready to run wires through about 50 feet of conduit towards my pool equipment area. As my previous posts shows I dug up my trench and plan to tap into my breaker panel to start the conduit trail. I would like to have two switches for the pool light with one near my sliding glass door to the house and the other switch near the pool equipment area. I'm basically trying to wire a "hallway" switch with two "three way switches" in the circuit.

Anyone can you please see if I'm wiring it up right:
[attachment=0:m4qc5y77]pool light electrical schematic.jpg[/attachment:m4qc5y77]


Thanks for all your help.

LarryF_in_So_Cal
 

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Is that a 20 AMP GFCI outlet that will also only be on when the light is on? Might be simpler to just use a GFCI breaker and then just go directly from the 2nd switch to the deck box / pool light ... assuming that breaker is only for the pool light ... which would also likely mean that 15 AMP would be plenty.
 
All,

Is that a 20 AMP GFCI outlet that will also only be on when the light is on?

I thought and was told by one of the Electricians that having a GFCI closer to the pool light would be quicker in case of a trip. I already have a 20AMP GFCI breaker inside of the breaker panel just for the pool light, so I guess that I could remove the GFCI outlet out of circuit.

Why are you wanting to switch the receptacle?

I don't really want to switch the receptacle, I was using the GFCI outlet to protect the pool light if it trips.

Guys, thanks for the help.

LarryF_In_So_Cal
 
I'm rather new here, but I do not think your plan complies with the code. Look at NEC 680.23. Pool lights have very strict requirements and depending on how you wire your drawing you probably do not comply. I would talk to a building inspector before I did this. I think if you terminate in a junction box, sub panel or transformer away from the pool then run directly to each light you probably comply. but I would as the local inspector how he reads 680.23.

You can see 680.23 here:

http://www.erbinspections.com/Forms%20& ... ations.pdf
 
All,

I made some progress over the weekend, I laid the conduit down in the trench.

Junction box on wall: (this is where I plan to have two switches one for the pool light and one for the pool equipment service area)
[attachment=2:xgyl7ovt]junction box.jpg[/attachment:xgyl7ovt]

Conduit to Wall:
[attachment=1:xgyl7ovt]Trench 1.jpg[/attachment:xgyl7ovt]

Conduit to Pool Equipment Area:
(this conduit travels towards my pool equipment area, and I plan to have an identical 2-gang box with two switches to complete the "hall-way" circuit)
This is also where I plan to branch off the pool pump circuit and wire up my pool pump.
[attachment=0:xgyl7ovt]Trench 2.jpg[/attachment:xgyl7ovt]

I'm getting ready to pull the wire this weekend.

Here is my dilemma, I plan to run a total of 9 wires through 1" conduit.

Four 10 gauge wires (two black, one white, one green ground) for the pool pump circuit.

Six 12 gauge wires (white, red, blue, brown, orange, green ground) for the pool light and pool equipment area light.

Pool light circuit (white, red, blue, ground) as my schematic shows configured as a hall-way "3way switch" configuration and

Pool equipment area light circuit (shared white, shared ground, brown, orange) also configured as a hall-way "3way switch" configuration.

My dilemma is how to get both pool light and pool equipment light circuits to connect to a single 20 amp breaker.

Is this possible?

I basically want to wire two "hall-way" light circuits but connect to one 20 amp breaker.

Anyone out there please shed some light on if this is possible.

Thanks,
LarryF_in_So_Cal
 

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You can connect two wires under a breaker terminal block but I don't suggest it. I'd opt for two breakers if at all possible. I also wouldn't share the ground or neutral. Run all separate wires. It's only a couple more wires.
 
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