Started pool season Looking for suggestion/insights

[sortarican]

Hello all,
I have started the pool season up here in southeast WI. Pool is not leveled from settlement and rains about 1.5" Does anyone think this will be a big problem? In regard to water, I added 120 lbs of morton water purification salt. Need to test the PPM before turning on the SWG. I tested the water with the Taylor 2006 kit. my numbers are

PH- 7.4
CH- 140
TA- 130
FC-0
CYA-0

Pool school says I don't need to hurry to lower TA. However Pool School says that TA impacts PH, and PH impacts how well the chlorine works. I am confused. Should I get TA in range or move forward with getting
PH-7.5-7.6
TA-60-80 ppm (over time with areation)
FC-3-5 ppm
CYA-70-80 ppm
CH is already in range via the pool school SWG level config

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

Worry about TA later. Right now you need to get some CYA and some FC in the water, lest your next thread involve cloudy green water! I expect your pH to climb once things start circulating, which will require some acid to correct, which will also lower TA.

An inch and a half out of level may end up becoming a problem. But I have an inground, so don't take my word for it.

 

[sortarican]

Last night I added 1lb of cal hypo (48%) and 2 lb 15 oz of CYA. Testing shows
PH of 6.8 or less
FC 16.5
CC .5
TA- Strip test 80-120
CYA- Strip test 30-50
I am worried about the low PH. Pool Calculator tells us to add 2 lbs of borax to raise PH to appropriate levels. I will be able to do this later today. Am I causing damage to the pool waiting 6 -7 hrs to correct or do I need to leave work ?

 

[Richard320]

Last night I added 1lb of cal hypo (48%) and 2 lb 15 oz of CYA. Testing shows
PH of 6.8 or less
FC 16.5
CC .5
TA- Strip test 80-120
CYA- Strip test 30-50
I am worried about the low PH. Pool Calculator tells us to add 2 lbs of borax to raise PH to appropriate levels. I will be able to do this later today. Am I causing damage to the pool waiting 6 -7 hrs to correct or do I need to leave work ?

I kinda doubt it. Pool Calculator shows the pH effect to be almost -1.3, but for changes that huge, it loses accuracy. So maybe not that much. You also have enough TA to counteract some of that, and luckily, you don't have a plaster pool. And besides, test strips are not that accurate. You really ought to get a decent test kit. You'll find that the people answering questions lose interest fast when we can't get trustable test results. I'm sure somewhere, someone, has tap water that is that acidic. Fix it when you can.

 

[sortarican]

Thank you for the peace of mind. Indeed, I used the taylor FAS-DPD k 2006 test kit for the PH, FC and the CC. I figured I needed more accurate readings on those items. The test strips where just a quick range of where I was at... That's why I disclosed the test strip use. I'll put in my signature that I test with the Taylor k2006.

 

[sortarican]

Decided to drain the pool and fix the 1.5 " slope. 12"x 12" pavers under the legs of the pool will help the legs sinking into soft ground. Thank you for the help.

 

[sortarican]

After draining pool to further support the pools legs from sinking into soft ground. The pool is leveled. Pool chemistry has been applied. I tested last night and my readings via the Taylor FAS-DPD kit are
FC: 6 ppm
CC: 05 ppm
PH: 7.4
CYA: 45 ppm
TA: 120
Calcium Hardness: 250


I set the Pump timer to 4 hrs and the SWG timer to 2 hrs this morning @ 7 am . Will have to wait and see if that combination is good for the southeast WI location, time of year, and pool. I know CYA can be brought up.Wrinkles have developed on floor of pool. There is fine dirt accumulating on the floor of the pool as well. Any other suggestions to improve the set up?