Constantly adding acid since starting the BBB. ????

[brian10]

FC 3
CC 0
pH at least 8
TA 110
CH 260
CYA at 40-50(added stabilizer to raise cya from probably 10 last week).

Is this the nature of BBB? Adding 3/4 a gallon every 2-3 day's(muratic acid)?

 

[Smykowski]

If you were using tabs before, yes. The tabs are acidic, so you were inadvertently and unknowingly adding acid without really knowing it. Also, your TA is a touch high which is contributing to the TA rise. How old is the pool?

 

[Richard320]

Every pool is different.

How are you getting those numbers? I sure hope it's not via test strips... 'fess up and take your scolding if you are!

Assuming you're using a drop test for pH, note that the scale runs out at 8.2. Anything above 8.2 will read as 8.2, so you could have been at 9, or 10, or even higher! Also note that pH is logarithmic. If you've forgotten that math concept since high school, it's like the Richter Scale. 8 is ten times stronger than 7. 9 is 100 times stronger than 7!! So to drive pH down from somewhere above 8 is going to take a lot of acid. Once it gets into the mid 7's, the quantities will reduce.

Doublecheck your acid, too. The latest gimmic is "fumeless" or "safe" acid which is just a euphemism for "diluted with water."

 

[brian10]

3rd season for the pool. Unless I get muratic any cheaper, I can possibly spend $120 per season for acid. Ill drop TA.

 

[brian10]

Every pool is different.

How are you getting those numbers? I sure hope it's not via test strips... 'fess up and take your scolding if you are!

Assuming you're using a drop test for pH, note that the scale runs out at 8.2. Anything above 8.2 will read as 8.2, so you could have been at 9, or 10, or even higher! Also note that pH is logarithmic. If you've forgotten that math concept since high school, it's like the Richter Scale. 8 is ten times stronger than 7. 9 is 100 times stronger than 7!! So to drive pH down from somewhere above 8 is going to take a lot of acid. Once it gets into the mid 7's, the quantities will reduce.

Doublecheck your acid, too. The latest gimmic is "fumeless" or "safe" acid which is just a euphemism for "diluted with water."

No strips. I use the Taylor test kit. I understand the pH scale.

 

[elwood58]

I would check the strength of the muriatic you are using. That said, 35000 gallons is a lot of water. My pool is 14100, and I use approx 2 cups of 31.45% muriatic 2-3 times per week. I get a fair amount of pH rise from my SWG induced aeration.

 

[ecowolf]

I'm no expert, but my TA is 90, slightly lower than yours, and I add about a third of a gallon (14% strength) every week. So with your TA at 120, and with such a huge pool, what you are adding may be about right.

 

[dmanb2b]

As you continue to add acid, your TA will also drop and the rate of PH rise will also decrease. Do you happen to have high TA fill water?

 

[Bluechip]

Do you have any type of water feature or spa spillover? My pool is 28000 gal and I go through 3-4 gal of MA a month. My TA is around 70. I do have a spa with a spillover that runs 8 hours a day and also a in floor cleaning system that cycles frequently in the spa pushing even more water out.

 

[brian10]

Do you have any type of water feature or spa spillover? My pool is 28000 gal and I go through 3-4 gal of MA a month. My TA is around 70. I do have a spa with a spillover that runs 8 hours a day and also a in floor cleaning system that cycles frequently in the spa pushing even more water out.

I don't have a spa but I do have a baby pool spill over. Three square cut outs from the wall that spill water into the pool. I assume that's plenty of aeration.

 

[Mavrk]

I don't have a spa but I do have a baby pool spill over. Three square cut outs from the wall that spill water into the pool. I assume that's plenty of aeration.

I am new to the forum, but have been reading for a while. As I understand it aeration will raise he pH, so that might be contributing to the issue. Also, have you thought about adding borates to help stabilize the pH?
so-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-why-and-how-t4921.html

 

[Smykowski]

Borates should be added only after all the other pool chemistry is under control, including TA.

The pH rise is happening because of the TA. Adjust pH to 7.2 when you add acid. The spill over will take care of the aeration, and your TA will come down over time.

We notice over and over that new members want to immediately fix TA and add borates. Borates are optional and should be added after becoming a master at maintaining your pool chemistry. TA will come down on its own as long as everything else is maintained.

 

[Smykowski]

Borates should be added only after all the other pool chemistry is under control, including TA.

The pH rise is happening because of the TA. Adjust pH to 7.2 when you add acid. The spill over will take care of the aeration, and your TA will come down over time.

We notice over and over that new members want to immediately fix TA and add borates. Borates are optional and should be added after becoming a master at maintaining your pool chemistry. TA will come down on its own as long as everything else is maintained.

 

[brian10]

Borates should be added only after all the other pool chemistry is under control, including TA.

The pH rise is happening because of the TA. Adjust pH to 7.2 when you add acid. The spill over will take care of the aeration, and your TA will come down over time.

We notice over and over that new members want to immediately fix TA and add borates. Borates are optional and should be added after becoming a master at maintaining your pool chemistry. TA will come down on its own as long as everything else is maintained.

FC 3
CC 0
pH 7.2
TA 60
CH 260
CYA 40

I have considered adding borates. I was waiting to get the pool balanced and stable then to observe the pools look and feel before I added any borates. I want to be able to tell the difference.

 

[Smykowski]

Good plan. And keep that FC above 3!

 

[tlwilson]

I used a lot of MA last year, adding 1/2 gal every 2 to 3 days. I worked on lowering the TA and when I opened this year it was 70. pH was 7.2. I didn't raise it because last year the pH dirfted up rapidly. The pool has been open a month and I haven't had to add MA once. My pool's pH stays between 7.4 and 7.6 every time and TA stays at 70. I test pH at least every 2 days and TA once a week. The experts are right, get the TA to the right level for your pool and pH will stabilize.

 

[HouTex]

I'm in the third year of my pool and I am still adding about a quart of acid every 7-10 days. My TA stays between 70 and 80. But my oversized pump (I need it for the spa), the spillover spa (but the water doesn't fall far--the top of spa is level with the pool), and my SWG all cause my pH to rise.

I might spend $10 per month on acid, but it's pretty much all I have to add. Occasionally, I add some salt, conditioner and borax (along with more acid, of course) to top up after big rains. All in all, my pool is easy to maintain. Lowering your TA and adding borates may help, but I'm guessing you will always have to add some acid to keep the pH in range.