Help - disaster: Will epoxy putty repair hole in PVC?

[bobhatfield]

I drove a 2’ rebar (stake) into the ground and right through a section of buried PVC - one of the lines that feeds an in-ground pop-up. After draining the pool below the line's water level, I dug up the area to repair the pipe -- HOWEVER, it's surrounded tightly by about 15 other pipes crisscrossing and about 2-3 feet on each side: other popups, water feature, drain, etc. It is impossible to get at, even if I could dig under the bundle it wouldn't help.

Will epoxy, something like http://www.aplusbputty.com/ be sufficient to patch the hole? I was able to put my finger over the hole and stop the leak so the pressure isn't tremendous.

The only other choice may be to dig 4-5 feet down, 10 feet wide and long and hope to be able to move the section enough to cut then couple/glue – highly doubtful. Also, bypassing this by laying a new section may not work either as the pipe elbows down among the mass to go down below the pool.

 

[JamesW]

In ground pop ups are under a lot of pressure when operating. Epoxy will probably not work. A lot depends on how much damage was done to the pipe. Driving a rebar through the pipe would probably cause more damage than a nice clean hole.

However, if it's only a clean hole, you can glue a patch piece over the hole. You could cut a coupling in half, and then in half again lengthwise to make a patch piece. Glue the patch piece over the hole. Use a clamp to hold the patch piece until the glue dries.

If you need to cut out a section and replumb, then you could use a pvc wire saw to cut the bad section out and then use 4 90s to make a repair by going up, over and back down.

 

[bobhatfield]

However, if it's only a clean hole, you can glue a patch piece over the hole. You could cut a coupling in half, and then in half again lengthwise to make a patch piece. Glue the patch piece over the hole. Use a clamp to hold the patch piece until the glue dries.

I like this idea. Do you think PVC glued over the top would be stronger that epoxy? I can't get a clamp around due to the mass of tightly surrounding pipes, but may be able to apply pressure another way. Or, I may be able to thread an adjustable band type clamp and just leave it there.

 

[JamesW]

If you get a patch piece that has enough surface area beyond the hole, then it should hold just fine if you allow the glue to set up for at least 12 hours.

 

[harleysilo]

Use several of the adjustable band type clamps.

Can you please post a picture of your predicament? And a close up of the pipe damage?

 

[corchil]

I patched two holes last fall where our inline chlorinator used to be (no longer necessary since I found this site!!!) I took a PVC elbow - you'll need it to match the outer contour of the pipe - and cut two patches. I used PVC compound to glue the patches on and slid the adjustable clamp bands from the chlorinator (radiator bands???) over top and left them on. So far no leaks.

 

[Crystal]

I contacted leakmaster to see if any of their epoxy putties were a longterm solution to a pipe underpressure and they recommended not to use the putty, but a product called Plasti-aid.

 

[gordiec]

Is there enough room for an expansion coupling? This YouTube video shows how to install one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=so9XZS0aD1s#!

 

[bobhatfield]

I decided against trying to patch it thanks to your advice and wanted to follow-up in case someone does this to themselves in the future. Once we dug out enough earth and really exposed the area, I decide to call a few pool guys I knew to see if they knew someone that could fix it. I couldn't figure out how to get into that tight area and was afraid to start hacking away.

However, the guys I spoke with didn't come through -- delay, no return calls, now a Holiday weekend, etc... And I since discovered that plaster in a pool in Phoenix should NOT be exposed in the summer due to cracking, etc., I had to go for it.

Images below. The first starts to expose the affected area - that's the pool water level, need to drain pool below the lowest pipe. Water table in Phoenix is not a factor.

The markings in the second pic was for the plumber (that never showed). Screwdriver marks the hole.

The third pic shows something I'm really glad I did: I dug a deeper hole (bottom of image) where the water could drain to -- this allowed me to use a hose to bore out the dirt surrounding the pipes and not worry about flooding the work area. It also allowed me to clean the pipes and allow for water to drain out after cutting.

Note the two pipes that were cut. The upper one so I could get at the lower. The lower was cut with a cable/string type PVC cutter which works really well and fast. (Tip, gouge a notch in the side of the pipe as low as you can as a guide or the string will simply slide all over the surface and not dig in.) To get the string around and under the pipe, I had to blast the dirt with a jet spray from my hose -- again, the drain area was key!

I'll post final results next...

[attachment=2:3p0ledcd]image-001.jpg[/attachment:3p0ledcd]

[attachment=1:3p0ledcd]image_1.jpg[/attachment:3p0ledcd]

[attachment=0:3p0ledcd]image_2.jpg[/attachment:3p0ledcd]

 

[bobhatfield]

Here's the finished job.

I used an expansion coupling from HD/Lowe's (thanks gordiec, great tips in that video) -- but in hindsight I should have done four 90's -- as it was a little difficult to push the last couple together and get a 1/4" turn. Not too bad, just would have been easier with 4 90's since I had the room. Note the expansion coupling barely fit and I had to force the alignment when making the last fitting.

For the upper repair, I did do 4 90's (thanks JamesW) angled away because I thought that if my bottom repair had leaks, I didn't want to cut that away again. From that I learned that 4 90's is quick and simple!

None of this is meant to brag - I'm certain there are plumbers looking at this and cringing; however, I did want to post in case others find themselves facing this situation! ... and the plumber that's cringing doesn't show up ...

[attachment=0:37yxj6ok]image_3.jpg[/attachment:37yxj6ok]

 

[gordiec]

Wow, that's a bunch of pipes! Glad the expansion coupling worked, but I like the four 90's tip too!

 

[Vette]

Four 90's is exactly what I would have done. Good fix on that huge mess of pipes! Love all the purple primer slathered on the pipes

 

[duraleigh]

Very clever and very professional looking work

 

[bobhatfield]

Love all the purple primer slathered on the pipes

That was there when I started - from the guys that made the mess to begin with!

 

[[email protected]]

I drove a 2’ rebar (stake) into the ground and right through a section of buried PVC - one of the lines that feeds an in-ground pop-up. After draining the pool below the line's water level, I dug up the area to repair the pipe -- HOWEVER, it's surrounded tightly by about 15 other pipes crisscrossing and about 2-3 feet on each side: other popups, water feature, drain, etc. It is impossible to get at, even if I could dig under the bundle it wouldn't help.

Will epoxy, something like http://www.aplusbputty.com/ be sufficient to patch the hole? I was able to put my finger over the hole and stop the leak so the pressure isn't tremendous.

The only other choice may be to dig 4-5 feet down, 10 feet wide and long and hope to be able to move the section enough to cut then couple/glue – highly doubtful. Also, bypassing this by laying a new section may not work either as the pipe elbows down among the mass to go down below the pool.

Bob, Quick Q : what are 15 pipes for? it seems very excessive
rgds
Mike

 

[bobhatfield]

Mike,

Most are for in-floor cleaning system.

-Bob

 

[harleysilo]

Nice job!

Great tip on blasting of dirt around pipes with water hose, and digging the hole for the water to drain. Much easier than trying to dig all that dirt out with your fingers.

Wish i had seen this prior to repairing two irrigation lines that were right next to each other, I used to off those expandable compression fittings and they barely fit, plus they cost more than a few 90's.

I'm guessing you don't winterize? Would that be a consideration of another person who does? Would it be better to have the 90 horizontal (if possible) for blowing out the lines?

For you it doesn't look like it matters with all of the other changes in elevation of the plumbing.

 

[bobhatfield]

No winterizing in Phoenix, but good to note.