Bought wrong test kit - What's the difference?

[Crimson]

Normally I use a Taylor test kit with the yellow side for chlorine and the red for PH. It came with a bottled labeled R-0600 I believe. I went to the local pool store and bought what I thought was the same kit but this one came with R-0001 and R-0002 for the Chlorine test. Is there any advantage to one kit over the other? I have a full TF100 kit for my other tests but I use this for my basic day to day checks and want to make sure its still what I need and I am wondering why the 2 different kits? What does the one with one bottle of R-0600 do vs the one with R-0001 and R-0002?

Thanks!

 

[linen]

The R-0001 and R-0002 are for the DPD chlorine test (not to be confused with the fas-dpd chlorine test). See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206392

I like the OTO (r-0600)for day to day.

 

[Richard320]

The yellow test will read well above 5 PPM FC - not accurately, but it will go from yellow through orange and into brown so you'll know at least that there is chlorine in there and it's real high. The pink test will start to bleach out when FC gets high, so it may read nothing when in reality, you could be at some astronomical figure.

For day to day use, just as a quick check of FC and pH, either is fine.

 

[Crimson]

At what point does DPD start to bleach out?

 

[Richard320]

At what point does DPD start to bleach out?

From http://www.taylortechnologies.com/ChemistryTopicsCM.ASP?ContentID=35

1. My test results indicate there is no chlorine in the pool, but I know there is. Why does this happen?

If the chlorine is high, usually over 10 ppm, the DPD reagents may partially or totally bleach out, resulting in a false-low or zero chlorine reading. First, retest using 10 drops each of DPD #1 and #2. High chlorine should give a reading higher than the first reading.....