Where does a Pool Frog 5150 fit into the puzzle?

May 19, 2013
30
South Central PA
I hope this is the best place for this question. I am starting the transition to DIY pool guy! That said, I already have a Pool Frog 5150 inline unit that has an outer containing mineral reservoir that holds a chlorine bac-pac.

Am I correct in assuming this would be the 1st B in the BBB approach?

Also, I'm not sure what the mineral reservoirs do - other than they are "supposed" to prolong the life of my chlorine.

Assuming I want to continue using the Pool Frog for my daily sanitization, would you recommend buying a new mineral reservoir each spring or is it a waste of money and isn't really needed?

I'll have to compare the raw chlorine bac-pac costs to bleach once I learn how much my pool would need. The convenience of not having to chlorinate every day is nice, but I would like to know just how much more this "convenience" is costing me.

Finally, when looking at the charts - would use of the Pool Frog chlorination be considered in the Bleach column? I would expect this is the case since it's not a SWG.

Thanks,
Bob
 
Welcome to tfp, bderemer :wave:

bderemer said:
That said, I already have a Pool Frog 5150 inline unit that has an outer containing mineral reservoir that holds a chlorine bac-pac.
It really doesn't fit with the methods here on tfp. As I understand it, it adds copper (and maybe other metals) to the water which is not needed when a pool is properly chlorinated. It also adds cyanuric acid to the pool just like puck feeders do.

Take a look at this pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/types_chlorine_pool

bderemer said:
Finally, when looking at the charts - would use of the Pool Frog chlorination be considered in the Bleach column? I would expect this is the case since it's not a SWG.
It would be trichlor.
 
+1 what "linen just said.

Where does a Pool Frog 5150 fit into the puzzle?
He fits best back in the pond, not the pool....(sorry, couldn't resist)

Seriously, Bob, as you read and search on here about the pool frog, it adds nothing that you can't do better on your own and adds some minerals that you for sure don't want.
 
WOW - I am thoroughly impressed by the responses I have gotten in just a couple hours of being a member!

I have already ordered my TF-100, so hopefully it'll be here by wed. Turns out, wed was the earliest the pool place said to come back in to have my phosphates [re]-tested. Only after that, do they recommend having the water tested to be shocked.

So, in the meantime, I need to get some chlorine in my pool to keep it from turning green, etc. How can I determine how much bleach/liquid chlorine to use VS just putting in a bac-pac until I can properly test it myself?

Thanks again!
 
I am new too. I tried ionization. It worked great for about a year then stopped. I am still trying to get my pool chemistry right. I think it added CYA which I have drained my pool down by 40% and I am refilling today.

The ionization people will tell you that if you have high TDS or total dissolved solvents that ionization will stop working. The folks here at TFP are awesome.
 
Check out poolcalculator.com ... it will do the math for you and tell you how much of each chemical you need to add to achieve the Target you input.

If you have not already: Read Pool School, so that you understand the chemistry and what levels and chemicals we recommend.
 
After taking a look tonight, the water is pretty clear now, but not sharp/sparkling - still a bit of cloudiness, but I can now see the holes in the bottom drain fairly clearly. Doing a quick test with my 5-part strips from last year, the FC and TC are pretty much 0 - as I would expect after the winter. The pH and Alk actually seemed to be pretty close, but I'll re-do everything once I get the TF-100.

Thanks for the Pool School recommendations - I've been reading information on/off all day - being a technical guy (i.e. software engineer) and a DIY - it's additive!
 

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