All chemical are reading perfect except phosphates which are reading 200. Water is still greenish very cloudy.. Ive been trying for three weeks to get this straightened up. Of course I have used algaecide, i of course shocked it a few times.. ive done everything my pool store has told me... This past friday I put in some Phosfree. The pool store seemed to think this would work since all my readings were fine.. I have vacummened, i have brushed the walls and bottom.. My sand filter seems to be running fine... My hands are tied.. I have a event coming up at my house on memorial day and really need this pool open. It AG 24x48. I really dont want to have to drain it afraid it will collapse.. please help me figure this out.. My PH is fine, chlorine Im keeping high.. i know the algae cannot be alive after my shocking and maintaining higher chlorine levels until it opens... I just cant figure this out..
HELP ME!! Been trying to open for over 3 weeks
- Thread starter lilgalfromin
- Start date
Have you read the info in the Pool School?
I'm just a newb, but you should post your full test results, what test kit you are using, and maybe all the details about your pool.
From my Note 2
I'm just a newb, but you should post your full test results, what test kit you are using, and maybe all the details about your pool.
From my Note 2
Welcome! 
Wow... you're asking a lot. I'm hoping some of the others who have been posting their success stories will chime in here and save me a lot of typing.
First: You need some understanding. As you've discovered, relying on someone else to tell you what to put in hasn't done anything but empty your wallet and frustrate you. Start in Pool School.
Second, you'll need some accurate test results. "Fine" doesn't tell us a lot. The testers have numbers, not descriptions like "Excellent" "Fine" "Good" "Fair" and "Poor" for a reason. They tell us a lot.
My gut feeling is that you will have a fancy printout from the store which will list useless info like Phosphates, nitrates, and TDS and show CYA as 99+ or some variant thereof. At least give us that much, so you can find out ASAP if a partial drain is in your future.
A good test kit should be in your future, and the sooner the better.
Meanwhile, start studying Pool School. so you'll at least understand the terms we'll be tossing around in replies.
Wow... you're asking a lot. I'm hoping some of the others who have been posting their success stories will chime in here and save me a lot of typing.
First: You need some understanding. As you've discovered, relying on someone else to tell you what to put in hasn't done anything but empty your wallet and frustrate you. Start in Pool School.
Second, you'll need some accurate test results. "Fine" doesn't tell us a lot. The testers have numbers, not descriptions like "Excellent" "Fine" "Good" "Fair" and "Poor" for a reason. They tell us a lot.
My gut feeling is that you will have a fancy printout from the store which will list useless info like Phosphates, nitrates, and TDS and show CYA as 99+ or some variant thereof. At least give us that much, so you can find out ASAP if a partial drain is in your future.
A good test kit should be in your future, and the sooner the better.
Meanwhile, start studying Pool School. so you'll at least understand the terms we'll be tossing around in replies.
You really need to know your numbers to know how best to proceed. I would order your own testkit ASAP.
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
AimeeH said:
Absolutely! Without accurate test results, you're going to be trying to open your pool for most of the summer.
here are my numbers. I cant find where to update my signature so ill just give all info I have here. I have a AG 24x48 sand filter. I did have SWG but it broke and I didnt replace.. There is a low amount of salt still in pool which doesnt matter to me because i no longer need
FAC-3.0
TAC-3.0
CH-250
CYA-40
TA-90
PH-7.2
COPPER-0
IRON-0
PHO-100
I did put some clarifier in it about two hours ago...
FAC-3.0
TAC-3.0
CH-250
CYA-40
TA-90
PH-7.2
COPPER-0
IRON-0
PHO-100
I did put some clarifier in it about two hours ago...
If - and it is a HUGE if - those test results are accurate, your solution is chlorine bleach. Lots of it. You need The Shock Process. That involves hitting the algae with a big wallop of bleach, then hitting it again and again and again and again until it can no longer come back. But bleach breaks down quickly in sunlight, so you can't just dump it all in at once, or you'll bleach out the liner, if you haven't done so already at the pool store's instruction. So what's the solution? How much do you put in each time? Only your own, proper test kit can tell you that. One that can read to the levels you'll be testing. It's all in Pool School or the sticky in the algae forum.
A foreshadow of what you might be looking at:
A foreshadow of what you might be looking at:
lilgalfromin said:
You haven't read Pool School yet, have you?
Grocery store bleach can be anywhere from 1% to 8.25%. Read the label, and if they won't say, skip it. Liquid shock aka liquid pool chlorine is generally 10% or 12.5%. But it's all the same stuff. Shop around at the big box stores like Walmart, Sam's Costco, BJs, Lowes, Home Depot, and see who's got the best price. Maybe check this thread for ideas.
Bleach. But you still need your own test results.
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
pool-school/shocking_your_pool
I'm not the best person to give advice on shocking because I've never had to since I found this site in the first full season of owning a pool. It probably also helps that being in the south we don't "technically" close our pool but run the filter and swg a bit a day all winter. If I did have to shock I would dig in my heals and follow the directions in pool school to a "T". (Link pasted above) Because of this site the first time I actually made any purchase from a pool store was this spring when I needed a new pressure gauge.
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
pool-school/shocking_your_pool
I'm not the best person to give advice on shocking because I've never had to since I found this site in the first full season of owning a pool. It probably also helps that being in the south we don't "technically" close our pool but run the filter and swg a bit a day all winter. If I did have to shock I would dig in my heals and follow the directions in pool school to a "T". (Link pasted above) Because of this site the first time I actually made any purchase from a pool store was this spring when I needed a new pressure gauge.
lilgalfromin said:
Welcome
, you definately found the right forum to get you straightened out for ever...but 1st and foremost you should sit down for the evening with a cup or 5 of java, read pool school thoroughly, then read it again, then one more time....and order yourself a TF-100 test kit so it will be in your hands in 2-3 days (if you order it now).Then post your accurate results like many have said and will continue to say and all the nice folks here will be able to help.....until you get to that point it will be very hard to get the proper help.....
Welcome to TFP, the best place to learn how to take care of your pool yourself, without pool store nonsense numbers. 
As others has said, it's very important to learn all you can about caring for your pool and that means starting with reading pool school. Click on the large icon at the upper right hand corner of this page. Lots of great info and instructions. :idea:
Also, ordering a test kit as soon as you can so you are not relying on pool store nonsense numbers. :blah: (yes I know I've said it twice) but they really are not accurate, they cause you to do crazy things and turn over hard earned cash. Others have given the link to a great test kit. I own and love mine, TF-100. Get the XL kit. You will need it for the shocking process.
You will have a sparkly pool if you follow TFP advice. So many others have, just like me.
As others has said, it's very important to learn all you can about caring for your pool and that means starting with reading pool school. Click on the large icon at the upper right hand corner of this page. Lots of great info and instructions. :idea:
Also, ordering a test kit as soon as you can so you are not relying on pool store nonsense numbers. :blah: (yes I know I've said it twice) but they really are not accurate, they cause you to do crazy things and turn over hard earned cash. Others have given the link to a great test kit. I own and love mine, TF-100. Get the XL kit. You will need it for the shocking process.
You will have a sparkly pool if you follow TFP advice. So many others have, just like me.
listen to the experts here and get urself a good test kit without one u dont know whats going on in your pool. i have a 33 ft round and it was a nasty green swamp from sitting all winter with no cover or chemicals. mine was a purty blue after about a week of constant shocking and cleaning filter every time it was dirty. it cost me about $100 a week to shock and took 1 whole month to clear up to were i could see the bottom and stop shocking. u will also need to brush the floor and side everyday until your through shocking. when shocking u will need to be able to test often and know whats going on so the algae doesnt get ahead of u. 1st id order a test kit from here and get some good numbers that u can trust. then u can take hold of your pool and get it back to a sparkling pool with a little patience. the bbb method is really easy and works wounders if followed correctly.....ben
A welcome to Mississippi Ben. How'd you manage to clear a swamp without ever posting a question? Or any pictures? :grrr:
Richard320 said:
Probably just by reading
I can read here for hours. I've learned soooo much.
Thanks for the welcome richard and yes cleared it up by just reading and followin the experts advice here lol. I would have posted pics but don't know how to sorry. I don't have any of the swamp but I have some of it all cleaned up
Did you use all of that in one session?Richard320 said:If - and it is a HUGE if - those test results are accurate, your solution is chlorine bleach. Lots of it. You need The Shock Process. That involves hitting the algae with a big wallop of bleach, then hitting it again and again and again and again until it can no longer come back. But bleach breaks down quickly in sunlight, so you can't just dump it all in at once, or you'll bleach out the liner, if you haven't done so already at the pool store's instruction. So what's the solution? How much do you put in each time? Only your own, proper test kit can tell you that. One that can read to the levels you'll be testing. It's all in Pool School or the sticky in the algae forum.
A foreshadow of what you might be looking at:
(New to BBB...have not needed to shock yet)
I feel your pain. Our pool looked similar not too long ago. What really helped us was to use a miraclear tab (put in its own sock) in the suction basket. The pool looked so much better in days, after being very green and cloudy. Everyday after putting in the tab, the filter was backwashed, and the backwash coming out was so green! I'm no expert, but why not remove some of the algae, pollen, ant parts, etc this way, and then shocking to remove whats left. I'm curious if the miraclear tabs are putting something undesireable into the pool,.....?
I have put in 16 bottles of chlorine/bleach and just added lots of algaecide... If this dont work, i just dont know what else to do..