New to testing own water

[LivingTheDream]

I got my TF-100 test kit the other day and now would like to know if I'm on the right track.

Numbers tested on 5/14/13:
PH = 8.2
FC = 3.5
CC = 0
T/A = 170
CH = 340
CYA = 20
SALT = 3100

I lowered my PH with HTH Sodium Bisulfate (SB)
(7 boys swam the evening before, tested ph in morning at 8.2 and lowered it again with SB, waited and hour and tested all numbers)

Numbers tested today 5/19/13:
PH = 7.5
FC = 3
CC = 0.5 = TC = 3.5?
T/A = 160
CH = 280
CYA = 30
SALT = 3100

T/A is still high so do I continue with the SB to lower PH or do I use something else to lower the T/A? Do I add more Stabilizer? Or wait till I have the PH and T/A straight?

I do have some staining on the walls of the pool that I will have to try the Ascorbic Acid to get rid of. Do I deal with it before or after balancing the water or doesn't matter?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Stabilizer will lower them a little so bump it up to 50 first. High TA is not an issue other than it causes the PH to drift up, especially when there is an SWG. I would recommend you simply add Muratic Acid to lower the PH, every time it reaches 7.8, lower it to 7.2. Each time it does drift up. Eventually the TA will drop down into the recommended range.

You would be better off waiting till the end of the season to do the AA treatment or the beginning of next - it's kinda tricky. Unless the stains are a real issue/eyesore than you can't ignore...

 

[LivingTheDream]

Thank you! Yesterday I went out and bought Muriatic Acid and some Stabilizer. I put 4 lbs of stablizer in the skimmer last night and tested the ph this morning and it was down to 7.2. I read not to test the CYA for a week to get accurate reading so I didn't test that.

 

[BoDarville]

LivingTheDream:

Welcome to TFP

I read not to test the CYA for a week to get accurate reading so I didn't test that.

You've got it

 

[LivingTheDream]

Ok!!! Just got back from vacation (6 days w/0 maintenance on pool). My pump sounds like it's on its last breath. Will have to replace that. Here are my numbers (to me they look good):
PH = 7.5
FC = 6.5
CC = 0.5 = TC = 7?
T/A = 130
CH = 310
CYA = 70
SALT = 3200
The chlorine is a little high but I think that is due to the solar cover being on for the week we were gone.
To me the T/A should be lower. How would you recommend that?

 

[Isaac-1]

Don't worry too much about TA, aeration will lower it, some of that will happen just from people in the pool splashing around. Otherwise looks good. As to the pump chances are you can just replace the motor and the seal for about half the price of a new pump if it was otherwise in good condition. A motor swap on a pump is fairly straight forward, usually 15-20 minute job if the pad is accessable, there are you tube videos that will walk you through it for many popular models if you are the handy type.

Ike

 

[LivingTheDream]

Today's numbers:
PH = 8
FC = 8.5
CC = 0.5 = TC = 9
T/A = 100
CH = 380
CYA = 60
SALT = 3200
Temp = 80

To me (and the Pool Calculator), the chlorine is too high (I shocked last night due to high volume of swimmers during weekend). PH is too high, need to bring down using Muriatic Acid. CH is too high. TA is still high but has come down. CYA is too low. In what order should I adust?
I do need to add a few inches of water due to evaporation, so should I add the water and then retest before adjusting these numbers?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yes, add water first. CYA is fine. CH is at the high end of the range but if you keep your PH in check no biggie, only water replacement and Reverse Osmosis lowers it.

Your FC is higher than it needs to be but not "TOO" high - you can turn off the cell for a day and it will drop. Shocking after a high volume of swimmers isn't necessary, you can just "bump" it up a lil bit with some liquid but really isn't necessary to "shock" the pool.

So add water, let it circulate then adjust PH. That's about it.

 

[RobbieH]

Is your pump pressure high? I'm thinking adding 4 lbs of CYA to your skimmer might have caused you to clog the filter. We recommend putting CYA in a sock, hung in front of a return. This way it slowly dissolves in to the water and doesn't cause issues as you seem to be having.

With my SWG, I don't bother hitting with a booster chlorine shot after bather load as long as the FC is still in proper range. Keep in mind when your water goes through the SWG, it gets a shot of high FC.

 

[LivingTheDream]

Opened the pool!!! I have shocked and balanced and everything looks great! Can I get a sanity check on my numbers?
PH = 7.5
FC = 7
CC = 0.5 = TC = 7.5?
T/A = 70
CH = 280
CYA = 60
SALT = 3000
62 degrees
I think those are good numbers, right? Chlorine is still high due to Slaming. Now I was trying to understand the CSI. I am lost!! The Pool Math says, -0.59 in the first box and -0.7 in the second. What am I looking for?

 

[duraleigh]

Your numbers are fine except you need to bring pH lower. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.....that tells you the acceptable ranges for everything and you can reassure yourself and make that adjustment.

Others will not completely agree, but CSI is not important in a vinyl or fibreglass pool and almost never in a masonry pool. What is important is that you stay within the acceptable ranges that have been established on this forum and, if you do, you simply never have a need to consider CSI.