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Thread: New to testing own water

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    New to testing own water

    I got my TF-100 test kit the other day and now would like to know if I'm on the right track.

    Numbers tested on 5/14/13:
    PH = 8.2
    FC = 3.5
    CC = 0
    T/A = 170
    CH = 340
    CYA = 20
    SALT = 3100

    I lowered my PH with HTH Sodium Bisulfate (SB)
    (7 boys swam the evening before, tested ph in morning at 8.2 and lowered it again with SB, waited and hour and tested all numbers)

    Numbers tested today 5/19/13:
    PH = 7.5
    FC = 3
    CC = 0.5 = TC = 3.5?
    T/A = 160
    CH = 280
    CYA = 30
    SALT = 3100

    T/A is still high so do I continue with the SB to lower PH or do I use something else to lower the T/A? Do I add more Stabilizer? Or wait till I have the PH and T/A straight?

    I do have some staining on the walls of the pool that I will have to try the Ascorbic Acid to get rid of. Do I deal with it before or after balancing the water or doesn't matter?
    Tracy
    IG, Fiberglass, 15 x 32, 11K gal, Hayward Super Pump HP 1, Hayward Cartridge Filter, AquaRite SWG, Hayward Titanium Heater

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: New to testing own water

    Stabilizer will lower them a little so bump it up to 50 first. High TA is not an issue other than it causes the PH to drift up, especially when there is an SWG. I would recommend you simply add Muratic Acid to lower the PH, every time it reaches 7.8, lower it to 7.2. Each time it does drift up. Eventually the TA will drop down into the recommended range.

    You would be better off waiting till the end of the season to do the AA treatment or the beginning of next - it's kinda tricky. Unless the stains are a real issue/eyesore than you can't ignore...
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: New to testing own water

    Thank you! Yesterday I went out and bought Muriatic Acid and some Stabilizer. I put 4 lbs of stablizer in the skimmer last night and tested the ph this morning and it was down to 7.2. I read not to test the CYA for a week to get accurate reading so I didn't test that.
    Tracy
    IG, Fiberglass, 15 x 32, 11K gal, Hayward Super Pump HP 1, Hayward Cartridge Filter, AquaRite SWG, Hayward Titanium Heater

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    BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: New to testing own water

    LivingTheDream:

    Welcome to TFP

    Quote Originally Posted by LivingTheDream
    I read not to test the CYA for a week to get accurate reading so I didn't test that.
    You've got it
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: New to testing own water

    Ok!!! Just got back from vacation (6 days w/0 maintenance on pool). My pump sounds like it's on its last breath. Will have to replace that. Here are my numbers (to me they look good):
    PH = 7.5
    FC = 6.5
    CC = 0.5 = TC = 7?
    T/A = 130
    CH = 310
    CYA = 70
    SALT = 3200
    The chlorine is a little high but I think that is due to the solar cover being on for the week we were gone.
    To me the T/A should be lower. How would you recommend that?
    Tracy
    IG, Fiberglass, 15 x 32, 11K gal, Hayward Super Pump HP 1, Hayward Cartridge Filter, AquaRite SWG, Hayward Titanium Heater

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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: New to testing own water

    Don't worry too much about TA, aeration will lower it, some of that will happen just from people in the pool splashing around. Otherwise looks good. As to the pump chances are you can just replace the motor and the seal for about half the price of a new pump if it was otherwise in good condition. A motor swap on a pump is fairly straight forward, usually 15-20 minute job if the pad is accessable, there are you tube videos that will walk you through it for many popular models if you are the handy type.

    Ike
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
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  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: New to testing own water

    Today's numbers:
    PH = 8
    FC = 8.5
    CC = 0.5 = TC = 9
    T/A = 100
    CH = 380
    CYA = 60
    SALT = 3200
    Temp = 80

    To me (and the Pool Calculator), the chlorine is too high (I shocked last night due to high volume of swimmers during weekend). PH is too high, need to bring down using Muriatic Acid. CH is too high. TA is still high but has come down. CYA is too low. In what order should I adust?
    I do need to add a few inches of water due to evaporation, so should I add the water and then retest before adjusting these numbers?
    Tracy
    IG, Fiberglass, 15 x 32, 11K gal, Hayward Super Pump HP 1, Hayward Cartridge Filter, AquaRite SWG, Hayward Titanium Heater

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: New to testing own water

    Yes, add water first. CYA is fine. CH is at the high end of the range but if you keep your PH in check no biggie, only water replacement and Reverse Osmosis lowers it.

    Your FC is higher than it needs to be but not "TOO" high - you can turn off the cell for a day and it will drop. Shocking after a high volume of swimmers isn't necessary, you can just "bump" it up a lil bit with some liquid but really isn't necessary to "shock" the pool.

    So add water, let it circulate then adjust PH. That's about it.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: New to testing own water

    Is your pump pressure high? I'm thinking adding 4 lbs of CYA to your skimmer might have caused you to clog the filter. We recommend putting CYA in a sock, hung in front of a return. This way it slowly dissolves in to the water and doesn't cause issues as you seem to be having.

    With my SWG, I don't bother hitting with a booster chlorine shot after bather load as long as the FC is still in proper range. Keep in mind when your water goes through the SWG, it gets a shot of high FC.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: New to testing own water

    Opened the pool!!! I have shocked and balanced and everything looks great! Can I get a sanity check on my numbers?
    PH = 7.5
    FC = 7
    CC = 0.5 = TC = 7.5?
    T/A = 70
    CH = 280
    CYA = 60
    SALT = 3000
    62 degrees
    I think those are good numbers, right? Chlorine is still high due to Slaming. Now I was trying to understand the CSI. I am lost!! The Pool Math says, -0.59 in the first box and -0.7 in the second. What am I looking for?
    Tracy
    IG, Fiberglass, 15 x 32, 11K gal, Hayward Super Pump HP 1, Hayward Cartridge Filter, AquaRite SWG, Hayward Titanium Heater

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: New to testing own water

    Your numbers are fine except you need to bring pH lower. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.....that tells you the acceptable ranges for everything and you can reassure yourself and make that adjustment.

    Others will not completely agree, but CSI is not important in a vinyl or fibreglass pool and almost never in a masonry pool. What is important is that you stay within the acceptable ranges that have been established on this forum and, if you do, you simply never have a need to consider CSI.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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