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Thread: Valve replacement

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    Valve replacement

    I recently discovered that one of the three valves going into the skimmer at the pump froze over the winter and needs replacement. I am replacing all three to avoid future problems. My issue is this, the two lines coming from the upper skimmer baskets have water in them, but is not flowing, however, the line from the drain at the bottom of the deep end is forcing water through the line. This makes it difficult to glue pieces together. Is there a way (short of draining my pool) to stop this flow of water so i can glue the replacement valves in place? PLEASE HELP ! ! !

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Valve replacement

    Welcome to tfp, smfroehlich

    I have not tried this, but somewhere I have read jamming bread into the pipe to plug it temporarily and then later is just breaks down and washes away. Here it is: http://www.troublefreepool.com/cut-o...7.html#p102499
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Valve replacement

    i've heard about doing this with home plumbing. it's worth a try. thanks for the suggestion.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Valve replacement

    That is only helpful for a small amount of leakage. You still would have to try to plug the drain in the pool.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Valve replacement

    Are the valves below the surface of the pool?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Valve replacement

    the valves are not below the surface, but i think the reason for the flow of water through the third valve is the pressure from the deep end. i'm going to try to make a frame and use a piece of plastic sheeting to cover the drain at the bottom of the deep end and do the bread trick at the vale. hopefully that will give me enough time to get things together.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Valve replacement

    If your valves are above the surface of the water, they will not leak. The water you must be seeing is coming from somewhere above the valves...possibly the filter draining?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Valve replacement

    ok, so i finally got the guts to finish this project. after cutting the remaining pipe, i took 3 hot dog rolls (thats all i had) and mashed them into a ball and jammed it into the pipe. i also took a balloon and blew it up slightly then put that in the pipe as well. i was able to finish gluing the pieces together and i am proud to say that everything is running fine with no leaks. thanks for the bread suggestion.

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