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Thread: Advice on fence moly bolt removal?

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    Advice on fence moly bolt removal?

    Hi,

    Anyone have some advice on how to remove the flange mounting moly bolt studs which were drilled into the cement? I've seen some botched attempts where they just got ground down level with the cement, which proceeded to look rusted and ugly. It'd be nice to actually remove them (or most of them) and be able to grout the hole to sort of match.

    Thanks!
    Greg
    gunnite bottom and fiberglass walls that have been coated with epoxy paint. Approx. 24000 gallons, sand filter.

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    Greg,

    Welcome to TFP!

    Can you post pictures of what you are trying to remove?

    Thanks!

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    If I am understanding what you are doing (or trying to do) You can take a metal drill bit, just a hair smaller then the anchor and drill the anchor out.
    27' Round AG, 17,200 gallons, sand filter

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    This forum is great by the way, really first class. Thanks everyone!

    I'll see if I can't get a photo uploaded tonight, but basically I think you've got the idea. Each fence mounting flange is attached to the deck with four drilled in expansion anchors. The expansion anchors are all pretty rusty, but I'm hoping I can get the bolt off the stud so I can get the flange (and fence) removed, and then double up on the bolts and try and back out the stud with a wrench (like you would with an exhaust manifold stud), leaving the soft expansion part still in the cement. If it breaks off below the level of the deck, I'm fine with just grouting over. I'd hate to have to drill and use an easyout on many of them though, I've never had much luck with those things - they always break off on me.

    I've seen ugly attempts to just grind the stud down to the level of the deck so nobody mangles their feet, which then proceeds to make nice rust stains everywhere...

    Greg
    gunnite bottom and fiberglass walls that have been coated with epoxy paint. Approx. 24000 gallons, sand filter.

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    What kind of anchorments are they? Are they the type that have the nut on top? Or are they the kind that you can screw a bolt into. If they are the kind you can screw a bolt into, forget it, they are staying in there. If they are the kind that you put a nut on top of, you got a chance. The way that those work is that they get a hole drilled, they get put in there, and the washer and nut gets put on and pulls the bolt up, which is tapered at the bottom, and wedges a collar into the sides. You could just tap the bolt down, and keep working it up by hand and ease it out. I know some people drill the hole deep enough to be able to just beat the whole thing down in the future if needed.
    steve

    Above Ground / 18' Round / Vinyl Liner / Sand Filter / 100K Gas Heater / Salt Added / No Nature2

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    Here's what we're looking at, I think I've got the kind with the threaded slug which pulls up into the expanding sleeve as it is tightened. Thanks for the advice!

    Greg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    gunnite bottom and fiberglass walls that have been coated with epoxy paint. Approx. 24000 gallons, sand filter.

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    When you remove the pole, you can cut them off flush, then get a good punch and sledge and batter them down. Even if the holes are not all the way through the concrete I would bet they would still go through. You could then mortar them up.
    steve

    Above Ground / 18' Round / Vinyl Liner / Sand Filter / 100K Gas Heater / Salt Added / No Nature2

  8. Back To Top    #8

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    you can try to drill a hole through the nut and bolt and stick a pin (nail) in through both and try to back out the entire bolt.
    Gary
    21k gal SW, IG Gunite PebbleSheen, 1HP Jandy, Jandy 340 filter, Polaris 280, 17' fiberglass slide w/ 2HP pump.

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    seadogg's Avatar
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    I suspect you'll NEVER be able to get them out the way they went in without having a huge mess and lots more cement repairs. If the cement isn't too thick you might drive them through as Sevver suggested.

    If it were me, I'd grind ALMOST flush (to avoid damaging the surface of the surrounding cement), punch a guide hole in the exact center of the bolt (use a center punch with a good point on it) then drill it out as Poolidiot said with a good sharp drill bit, made for drilling metal. After you clean up the hole (get the filings and any remaining threads out), blow it out with compressed air, mix some epoxy and pour in just enough to cover the remaining stud (keeps it from rusting). After the epoxy dries repair the hole matching the finish of the rest of the deck.

    Good luck!
    Doughboy 16x32 AG with deep end (15,000 gal.)
    Hayward Power-Flo Matrix 1.5 HP pump with 22" sand filter.

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    If those are just threaded studs screwed into anchors, then a bit of soaking in penetrating oil and one of these should remove them:

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P
    26,000 Gallon Gunnite IGP
    2 HP Challenger High Head Pump
    60sf Nautilus DE filter
    Polaris 280

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