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Thread: Converting from SWG to Chlorine System

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    Converting from SWG to Chlorine System

    I have a rock feature on my pool.

    It appears the salt in my salt water pool is causing the rock to degrade quicker than normal - I found a pool guy I trust in the Houston area and he said this is pretty common on SW pools he has seen in the area.

    I tried a rock sealer, but it didn't do too much to the amount of rock coming off.



    Questions (edited):
    - I've got the salt down to ~2100 ppm, but the SWG is reading 'general fault, low salt level'
    - Does the SWG turn off the cell in a low salt situation?
    - Once I get to near zero salt, what is the best way to turn the unit off? I may go back to salt in the future (I'm going to try the summer with the BBB method) can I just unplug the leads from the wall mount to the cell and call it good? Is there a good way to put the cell and wall unit into hibernation?
    Houston Texas - 18 k gals pool, Hayward 2 HP main pump, 0.75 hp boost pump, 2 HP waterfall pump, Hayward H400 idl Heater, DE filter
    Polaris 280 pool bot - Taylor 2006 Test Kit - BB (no Borax yet)

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    elwood58's Avatar
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    Re: Converting from SWG to Chlorine System

    The SWG does not reduce the salt, as the chlorine produced turns back into salt. Water replacement is the only thing that reduces salt.
    19204 Gallon L Shape with a 10X10 2nd Step Baja Ledge. Intellichlor IC-40, IntellipH, Cartridge Filter, Pentair Heater/Chiller (Heat Pump). Tons of Deck with Deck Jets. Construction Complete 6/5/17.

    "If you don't measure it, you can't manage it!"

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Converting from SWG to Chlorine System

    As the salt level goes down the SWG will first complain about low salt and continue working, and then at a lower salt level shut off.

    How you turn the SWG off completely depends on your wiring setup. If everything is hardwired you may need to open the SWG case and disconnect the wires.

    Simply disconnecting the cell cable will prevent it from producing chlorine, but the main unit will still be powered on and draw a very small amount of electricity.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Converting from SWG to Chlorine System

    As far as I can tell, there is no 'power' button on the attached. Looks like hardwire. Remove the control wire in the junction box outside?

    Houston Texas - 18 k gals pool, Hayward 2 HP main pump, 0.75 hp boost pump, 2 HP waterfall pump, Hayward H400 idl Heater, DE filter
    Polaris 280 pool bot - Taylor 2006 Test Kit - BB (no Borax yet)

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    UN1017's Avatar
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    Re: Converting from SWG to Chlorine System

    I have the same unit. Two options:

    1. Just set the chlorine production to 0% or
    2. Remove the four screws for the plastic housing and unplug the ribbon cable that connects the front board to the rear board.
    15'x30' IG - Roman-style - 14K - Pebble Fina Classico
    Filter: Jandy CL460 Pump: Jandy Stealth SHPF1.5 SWG: Jandy AquaPure 1400 Cleaner: Jandy RayVac Test Kit: TF-100 w/SpeedStir

    Chlorine/CYA Chart----Extended Test Kit Directions----SLAM

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