My Question/problem of the day...

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RowdyC

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May 4, 2013
35
Norman, Ok
I have a ton of questions, but hate starting a new thread for each of them, so I'm going to have one thread that I will ask most of them here.

FINALLY got my test kit, and here are this afternoon's numbers-

FC - .32
CC - .08
PH - 7.4
TA - 90
CYA 80

So according to the calculator I need to add a small amount of washing soda and chlorine. Water has really cleared up the last several days, but we still have a green shade...is shocking a given when opening a pool after having it dormant for the winter? If so, does it appear okay to start shocking?

As always, thanks for the replies and help.
 
What test kit? The ones we recommend do not go to 2 decimal places.

Leave the pH and TA alone, they are fine. Although you CYA is a bit high so a 30-40% water change would not hurt.

Actually if you are going to start the shock process, you may want to lower the pH a bit before you start.
 
RowdyC said:
I have a ton of questions, but hate starting a new thread for each of them, so I'm going to have one thread that I will ask most of them here.

FINALLY got my test kit, and here are this afternoon's numbers-

FC - .32
CC - .08
PH - 7.4
TA - 90
CYA 80

So according to the calculator I need to add a small amount of washing soda and chlorine. Water has really cleared up the last several days, but we still have a green shade...is shocking a given when opening a pool after having it dormant for the winter? If so, does it appear okay to start shocking?

As always, thanks for the replies and help.
Click to expand...
Typo, maybe? You sure you don't mean FC 3.2? Too low for 80 CYA. Never let it dip below 9. Ever.

Your pH is just fine where it is.
 
If you're using the K2006 or TF-100 those should be 3.2 and .8. Either way, the chlorine is too low, and the CYA is on the high side, especially for shocking. I don't see a CH number. Did you test for that? I would leave pH and TA alone. The TA is on the high side of recommended, and pH will rise on its own. Also, when doing the chlorine test you can use the 10 ml sample (provided you are using the TF-100 or K-2006.)
 
I'm using my NEW K-2006 (I'm excited). I was watching a YouTube video from "swimjim"? And I was doing math based upon their stats. eg. FC 16 drops x .02, and that is where I got .32

I did not do the CH test but will try and get to that one before dark. The CYA test seemed fickle, so I think I'll try the 1/2 & 1/2 test next time.

So when is the best time to test water? And should I test again before making adding anything? Also, are their better videos to watch the use of the K-2006?
 
Today's numbers:
FC - 9
CC - 0.5
TA - 90
PH - 7.6
CYA - 75-80 - I hate this test regardless of how many times I re-use test agent.
CH - 280

Several questions today -
#1. What's the school of thought about shocking before/during/after rain storms?

#2. Hooked up the vacuum and pump lost prime momentarily and then returns started blowing "dirt/filth" back in pool? WTH? I did shut off pump, back washed (very dirty), rinsed, primed and started again, all seemed fine.
 
To answer your questions on shocking... no it is not a given that you need to shock upon opening for the season, nor do you need to shock just because it has rained. I'm on my second season of a pool and have never gone through the shocking process.
 
Started the "shock process", used pool calculator and added what it suggested based on my readings.
Brushed, waited an hour and fifteen minutes and my target FC was 30 but actually read 39.

Pre shock- FC 5, CC 1, TA 90, PH 7.4, CYA 80, CH 280

Is one of my readings off? Or was my math off adding 710oz of bleach?

Just a little nervous with such a high FC number.
 

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When I plug your info into the pool calculator, I get that you should have added 933oz. of 6% bleach to get from 5 to 30 ppm FC for an 18k gallon pool.

Seeing that you overshot your target, it could be that the bleach you are using has a higher concentration than what is listed on the bottle, or your pool isn't actually 18,000 gallons, or the bleach didn't fully mix before you remeasured.

Either way, no need to worry about 39ppm with a CYA of 80.
 
It's been a long time since I barely passed college chemistry...but it appears that the bleach is 8%.

Thanks for the re-assurance that I'm not melting PVC pieces etc. I'll guess that it's not mixed as well as it should be, and test again in an hour!

THANKS!
 
9+ hours and the FC is still holding at 36, got lucky with a very cloudy day. We've brushed 2 times and I'm going to go brush again in the dark (sounds like a country song...a bad one, but), if FC holds throughout the night, and water is clear,can I consider this shock therapy done?
 
Q of the day: I have things floating on the water surface, that appear to be tree pollen. It's been doing this for several weeks. When I run the filter for 12+ hours it pretty much eliminates it, but comes back the next day. If this is indeed tree pollen (cottonwood), than it is what it is, but if its a sign of some sort of algae, I'd like to jump on it ASAP. I do live in a neighborhood with lots of big trees, with several cottonwoods and Bradford pears.
My chemicals are all in the normal range (according to pool calculator) and have been with the exception of a 3 day period when we were out of town. CC went up to 1.5 and FC dropped to below 2...haven't shocked since that drop.
 
If it is collecting at the waterline and in the depressions in the floor but not on the walls it is probably pollen. Pollen does not feel slimy and comes back daily even with high levels of chlorine.
 

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