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Thread: Strategy/Order to attack algae

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    Strategy/Order to attack algae

    Hey guys

    After weeks of hard rains I guess my water has been diluted to where the SWG was ineffective. (Where does it go?)

    Got a hint of green a couple days ago, last night I added bleach to FC 15 shock level (40 CYA).

    This morning's readings on 25k gal plaster
    FC 11
    CYA 40
    pH 8.1
    TA 140
    Salt 2200

    So I know I need to add salt, acid and more bleach until it clears up. The question is whether I can do it all at once?
    Bleach is going in now... should I go ahead and run up the salt at the same time too? Should I wait on the pH until the algae is gone or try to tackle it now?
    Do I really need the "algae control" that the pool store is trying to sell my wife (before adding the salt)?
    25k gallon rectangular, Cartridge filtered
    New AquaRite T-15 cell and board
    IG Plaster, No idea of pump size/flow rate
    TF-100 kit with the K-1776 salt kit
    Polaris 280
    Still learning, but I've been to pool school!

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    pH first. Then run it up to shock level. Continue the shock process. If you caught it early, it shouldn;t take long.

    Once you've passed all three tests to know you're done shocking, fill your sock with CYA and hang it in front of the return. Add salt and turn the SWG back on.

    The cost of the bleach will be much less than the cost of replacing the burned out SWG.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    Just want to note that with a FC >10, the pH test can be inaccurate. It can read falsely high.
    John
    7 year old ~13,500 gal 24' AGP with 1.5 hp Proline pump, 150 sqft Pleatco cartridge, filled with well water with pH of about 4.5.
    Wanda the Whale pool vacuum, home made heater, Taylor K-2006
    Cloudy Pool? 1) Order test kit. 2) Follow SLAM
    New to TFPC? Read Pool School a few times, then post questions. PoolMath will help with chemical additions.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    Quote Originally Posted by Xenon
    Do I really need the "algae control" that the pool store is trying to sell my wife (before adding the salt)?
    Not if you maintain an appropriate amount of FC for your cya level.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnN
    Just want to note that with a FC >10, the pH test can be inaccurate. It can read falsely high.
    Yeah, I panicked a little this morning...

    Had my pH in the sweet spot yesterday then tested again this morning after maintaining a high FC overnight (and having a blue pool this am) and it the reading was 8.2+

    I decided not to add any acid and wait it out until after work today, see if the some of the FC burned off in the sun and revisit it. Now I'm glad I did. I didn't remember that tidbit. There are lots of these

    Follow up question: Pool store says I have high metal content in the water. In particular, copper. Is this something I should be concerned with? Best method to reduce it?
    25k gallon rectangular, Cartridge filtered
    New AquaRite T-15 cell and board
    IG Plaster, No idea of pump size/flow rate
    TF-100 kit with the K-1776 salt kit
    Polaris 280
    Still learning, but I've been to pool school!

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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    Partial drain and refill to reduce it. Do you know how it got there? It almost never naturally occurs.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    No idea. He said it could be from debris in the water (which I have some of some my Polaris booster quit) and tried to sell me "metal free" which would reduce it. I thought I'd check here first.

    FC is down to 8 after a full day of sun. I brushed the pool again for any algae I may have missed last night. I think I'll bring it back up overnight then tweak the rest. Hopefully she passes the tests in the morning.

    I should add the CC is .5 or less and clear
    25k gallon rectangular, Cartridge filtered
    New AquaRite T-15 cell and board
    IG Plaster, No idea of pump size/flow rate
    TF-100 kit with the K-1776 salt kit
    Polaris 280
    Still learning, but I've been to pool school!

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    Debris would not add copper. Copper is usually either from the use of some mineral system or the use of certain algaecides ... neither of which we recommend.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
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  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: Strategy/Order to attack algae

    And I can promise you that I haven't added algaecide and have no mineral system at least since July of 2011 since I've owned the house. Then again, I've never tested for copper either, so I guess it could still be in there.
    25k gallon rectangular, Cartridge filtered
    New AquaRite T-15 cell and board
    IG Plaster, No idea of pump size/flow rate
    TF-100 kit with the K-1776 salt kit
    Polaris 280
    Still learning, but I've been to pool school!

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