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Thread: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

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    Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    This is my first season with a pool and I'm trying to do as much as possible myself (moved into the house in Setember). I have a Polaris 380 that was working fine before the pool was closed last Fall. I'm trying to get it running again.

    When I start the cleaner pump I can put my hand over the port in the pool and feel water coming out. However, when I hook up the Polaris I get all sorts of problems (see video):

    http://youtu.be/NSUAICdIwcA

    Water is leaking (it's more than a leak) out of the seal coming out of the booster pump. If I disconnect the polaris from the port in the pool it doesn't leak by the pump, which lead me to think maybe there was something blocking the hose that connects the polaris to the water port.

    I took apart all of the joints on the polaris hose and made sure it was clear. I can blow through the line and get air flow all the way through, so I know it's not locked.

    It almost seems like there is too much pressure coming out of the booster pump? Or do I just have a bad seal in the PVC pipe that needs to be replaced?
    Jason

    30k IG plaster pool w/attached spa, Hayward Old school Jacuzzi Magnum Force 2HP single speed pump w/AO Smith motor (UST1202), Hayward 6020 DE filter, Poolskim, Polaris 380, Raypak natural gas heater, TF-100 test kit

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    Ya the connection is just leaking badly and needs to be re-plumbed.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    Has anybody come across anything on this forum that gives a little guide on how to do this? Since its already broken seems like little risk for me to try and do it myself...
    Jason

    30k IG plaster pool w/attached spa, Hayward Old school Jacuzzi Magnum Force 2HP single speed pump w/AO Smith motor (UST1202), Hayward 6020 DE filter, Poolskim, Polaris 380, Raypak natural gas heater, TF-100 test kit

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    In the Industry

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    Re: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    Can you provide an up close picture of the area on the plumbing where the leak is? Watching the video, it looks like there is a compression type coupling where the water is leaking.

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    Re: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    Please see the attached picture. The red arrow is where the leak is.

    I was planning on tackling this Friday afternoon, although I'm a little unsure of what the problem is. The fact that it doesn't leak if I don't have the polaris cleaner hooked up to the port in the pool makes me question what the issue is. I don't know if it's:

    1. There is some kind of block in the polaris cleaner itself (although I can blow through it).

    2. The pump is somehow running with more pressure than it should be (too much for the narrow polaris hose).

    3. It's actually a bad seal.

    I've never worked on anything like this before...should be interesting. Any tips on the best way to reseal this?
    Jason

    30k IG plaster pool w/attached spa, Hayward Old school Jacuzzi Magnum Force 2HP single speed pump w/AO Smith motor (UST1202), Hayward 6020 DE filter, Poolskim, Polaris 380, Raypak natural gas heater, TF-100 test kit

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    In the Industry

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    Re: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    Uh oh. Someone used dwv (drain, waste, vent. not intended to be used in this application) fittings. The 2 couplings and 90* fitting between them need to be removed and replaced with pressure fittings.

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    Re: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    Thanks for the info. Again, I've never done anything like this before, so pardon the silly questions here....

    How do you know those are DWV fittings as opposed to pressure fittings? I suppose I just take a hack saw and cut right where the red arrows are? My second cut would be to completely remove the coupling between the two 90* fittings? I'm planning on cutting where the red lines are in this picture. Does this make sense?

    Any additional words of advice? Since it needs to be replaced anyway and it's currently broken I'm looking at this as a low risk repair attempt...
    Jason

    30k IG plaster pool w/attached spa, Hayward Old school Jacuzzi Magnum Force 2HP single speed pump w/AO Smith motor (UST1202), Hayward 6020 DE filter, Poolskim, Polaris 380, Raypak natural gas heater, TF-100 test kit

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    Re: Trying to get Polaris 380 running

    Those red lines would be the correct cut spots. The other issue might be that once you cut out the old out, the horizontal pipe remaining might be a little short to get a good glue fitting with your new coupling. Perhaps consider using the flex hose and fittings that came with the Booster pump if you still have them.
    The way I can tell those fittings are DWV is by seeing them. For example compare the 90* DWV fitting in the picture to the one that 90s out of the pump. The couplings are shorter than pressure couplings.
    BTW make sure you use your cleaner and clean up the verticle pipe real well with the dauber before you make a glue fitting. Also when making your glue fittings, when you push the pipe into the fitting make sure you are pushing the pipe all the way in and hold it for 5-10 seconds until the chemical bond has been made. The pipe will want to eek out if you don't hold it for a bit. Then use your cleaner dauber and brush around the pipe/fitting area and clean any excess glue for a pro looking job. Not necessary, but you will be proud of your work for sure.

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