Also need help opening pool

[forfarmforfam]

Hi,
First - THANK YOU for having this forum. I've learned a lot and had a wonderful first year with an inexpensive Intex pool, last summer. It was their bottom-line metal frame pool and, at the end of the year, we realized they are not built to have covers on them during the winter. So, we ended up leaving it up with water in it and no cover. We've added chlorine a few times and run the pump, but don't know where to start the real process. The water was greenish, but adding chlorine and running the pump cleared it up almost completely. We need to clean out dust, worms, dirt on bottom and brush as we add chemicals, but it's looking pretty good believe it or not!

Do we start with lowering the pH, or start the same way as last year with Dichlor for a few days? Here is what we've got in numbers:
pH - off the chart, above 8.2 (last year it was consistently high - about 7.8 - but the pool was beautiful)
CYA - below 20 (could still see dot with full tube)
T/A - maybe about 150
Didn't test chlorine - figured that's useless.

Although I've never used it (bought before finding this forum), I have "pH minus" on hand. It is Sodium Bisulfate.
I cannot find Dichlor. It could be that I ordered it online, last year. Just don't remember. Could find again, I'm sure.
If I can't find Dichlor, would this work for the CYA part? It's hth brand, "stabilizer & conditioner" = active ingred. 96% cyanuric acid, inert 4% undisclosed.

Thanks very, very much.
Laura

 

[257WbyMag]

Welcome to TFP!

First, reduce your pH to around 7.2 to 7.4. Then you can add enough CYA (stabilizer and conditioner) to get you to say, 30. Put it in a sock and hang it in front of a return. It dissolves slowly. Then, you can add your chlorine. If your water is dirty, go ahead and shock. You can use dichlor but remember that it also adds CYA and too much can cause pronblems. My sig line has the pool calculator link in it. Use that tool to determine dosages of chems.

Do worry too much about the TA right now. We can deal with that later.

 

[forfarmforfam]

1. So, the "pH minus" (Sodium Bisulfate) is a good product? Is it a form of "dry acid"? I also have Muriatic Acid 31.45%. Would that be better?
2. I was concerned about lowering the pH, first, because the pool calculator says that the stabilizer will lower the pH. "It can take solid stabilizer up to a week to dissolve. It will also lower your pH." Is the CYA (hth, in a bottle) the "solid," or is that another form - and does the granular I have lower pH?
3. I am not stuck on Dichlor. It sounds like I should use CYA and chlorine separately.
4. How long will I have the CYA in a sock before adding chlorine? Test daily until at 30, then add chlorine? Or did you mean to shock right away while adding CYA?
Sorry for all of the questions. THanks for the answers!

 

[duraleigh]

1. Muriatic is generally better

2. CYA affects pH some but not too much. Don't worry about it in your case

3. I ABSOLUTELY think all newbies should adjust CYA and chlorine as separate ingredients....I still do.

4. Put it in the sock and let it dissolve for perhaps a day or so. Then shock.

 

[forfarmforfam]

Thank you.
BTW, the "Beginners Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools" was what led me to using the dichlor, last year. It was a beautiful start to the pool. But, I'm glad to know that the CYA I can get, easily, is a good way to add it.

I'm off to lower the pH with Muriatic Acid.

Thanks,
Laura