Please help newbie shocking pool first fill from well

[buckhunter835]

[attachment=0:36yz1knt]5-10-13 7 days filtering 24-7 (1024x576).jpg[/attachment:36yz1knt]I love the tfp site. I have read and reread the pool school info. very informative. purchased tf-100 on 3-9-13 should be in today.
quick background.
5-3-13 filled pool with well water was a little cloudy.
started pool with salt and chl. started the swg. pool turned almost dark brown, could not see bottom of 48" pool after 2 hours.
per pool shop i added metal free,stabilizer,and ma because of high ta and ph .
next couple days was lowering ta with m.a. and aeration to raise ph
5-7 started to clear up meaning i could at least see the bottom of the pool. but turned to a dark greenish color.
been adding m.a, clh, stabilizer

pool pumps have been running 24/7 clean cartridge 3x's / back flushed 1x (rust/copper color) during bf

5-10-13 am pool shop results. started the bbb process per pool calculator
FC 5.0
CC NO WAY TO TEST
TC 5.0
PH 8.0
TA 140
CH 200
CYA 50
SALT 3500
ACID 2
IRON 0
TEMP 65

USED POOL CALCULATOR. ADDED M.A TO LOWER PH TO 7.6 AND LOWER TA

STARTED "THE SHOCK PROCESS" PER P.C. T0 20 (USING CHLORINE/CYA CHART BY CHEM GEEK)

5-11-13 AM, TESTED FC WITH KIT I HAVE, ONLY READS TO 5.0.
(DARK ORANGE ALMOST BROWNISH I THINK OVER 20?? TC)

WHEN TL-100 ARRIVES, I KNOW I NEED TO DO THE FAS-DPD TEST, BUT IS THIS THE TEST I USE TO TEST SHOCK LEVELS?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP

 

[BoDarville]

buckhunter835:

Welcome to TFP

Yes, you want to use the FAS-DPD test to test the shock FC level. This is the test that uses the powder. When TF-100 arrives, I would run a complete set of tests and use those results to determine your target shock level. Pool store test results, especially CYA, are not the most accurate but that's all you have to go on for the time being.

 

[buckhunter835]

I will do a complete test as soon as the kit arrives, should be in today's mail.
should i be doing anything else. back washing sand filter or using d.e. with sand for faster results?

 

[BoDarville]

I would backwash whenever the filter pressure dictates a need (probably rather frequently until more stuff is filtered out). I would also hold off on adding DE to the sand filter until a majority of debris is filtered out. When your water begins to appear rather clear, and you have ruled out the need to shock, then you could add some DE to the filter to assist in filtering out the remaining fine particles. When that time comes, add the DE slowly and monitor filter pressure.

 

[buckhunter835]

TL-100 CAME IN TODAY'S MAIL
1st test with TL-100
5-11-13 7 pm results.
FC 28.5
CC 0
TC 28.5
PH 7.6
TA 310
CH 250
CYA 28
SALT no test
ACID no test
IRON no test
TEMP 88*


5-12, 7am I forgot to turn off swg tc UP by 6.0

5-12-13 7am results.
FC 34.5
CC 0
TC 34.5
PH 7.5
TA 320
CH 270
CYA 38 1st test / 2nd test CYA 37
SALT n.t
ACID n.t
IRON n.t.
TEMP 70*

POOL STARTING TO CLEAR UP I CAN SEE THE BOTTOM NOW :-D

per pool calculator I should add 9.oz stabilizer and 54.oz of M.A.
I will wait for someone's response before i add anything.
I will retest the T.A. using the extended test kit directions. (10 ml instead of the 25 ml test) t.a is twice the amount, from the pool store test 140 / 320
Happy mothers day, sunny and a high of 98* today
thanks john

 

[duraleigh]

1. Leave your pH alone. It test too high in the presence of high chlorine. Do not bother retesting pH until FC is below 10 ppm.

2. Redo the TA test but this time wipe the dropper tip with a damp cloth about every other drop. I know this is a PITA but the TA reagent R-0009, when it's very fresh, tends to "jump" out of the dropper tip (forming drops that are too small) unless you reduce the static by wiping the tip. This only lasts a couple of weeks.

 

[buckhunter835]

5-13-13, 1130 AM, RETEST TA, WIPING TIP BETWEEN EACH DROP
10ML TEST 200
25ML TEST 190

RESULTS TA 190

WHAT SHOULD I DO FROM HERE.

THANKS DAVE, LOVE THE KIT
TELL THE WIFE HAPPY MOTHERS DAY FOR ME AND THANK HER FOR THE SUPER FAST SHIPPING

 

[duraleigh]

Continue the shock process until....

1. Your pool water is sparkling
2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.

 

[buckhunter835]

will Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) tonight

Note had to add more water yesterday bf valve did not close all the way.

Current results from this morning.

FC 11.0
CC 0.0
TC 11.0
PH no test
TA 200
CH 290
CYA 15
SALT ?
ACID ?
IRON ?
TEMP 75

should i raise the cya to 50 / 24oz. dry per p.c. and try to lower t.a

pool is clear.

thanks john

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Hi John,
High TA is nothing to worry about. All it does is cause the PH to drift up. When PH drifts up to 7.8, lower it with muratic acid down to 7.2. The acid additions will eventually lower the TA into a range that will slow/stop the PH drift. That's it, that simple.

Yes, you should target your CYA for 50 if you are using daily bleach additions as your source of chlorine. However, any idea why your results are so different?

Test CYA outside, in direct sunlight, with your back to the sun to shield the view tube. The water should be warmer than 70 degrees, use a hot water bath to warm it up if the water temp is cooler than 70. See this link for cues on the correct test procedures:
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/ChemistryTopicsCM.ASP?ContentID=36

 

[buckhunter835]

Different results are probably because I had to add about 2 feet of water, bad bf valve did not shut off completely and I did not notice it.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Ah. Okay good to know. Then ya, get crackin on that CYA level ;-)

 

[buckhunter835]

pool is crystal clear. should i try to adjust anything.

May 31, 2013, 07:50 am

FC 4.0
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 210
CH 240
CYA 60
SALT no test
ACID no test
IRON no test
TEMP 70*

also i want to purchase a leaf catcher with sock any suggestions.
I was looking at Hayward W530 Large Capacity Leaf Canister with Mesh Bag Replacement for Hayward Pool
or Hayward w560 Navigator/Pool Vac Standard Leaf Canister
what category should i post a new thread in??
Thanks