Widemouth skimmer mounted to Intex above welded seam

Oct 5, 2010
31
Ohio
I am a long-time lurker and occasional poster (normally seeking info). I have received loads of great advice over the years so this is my time to contribute to a topic which I know has a lot of interest with other board members.

I bought a hydropools widemouth skimmer last year and have been dreaming about installing it ever since. Apart from trepidation about plunging a knife through my perfectly good liner I also didn't want to loose depth from my pool by mounting it below the welded seam (as I have the 48" deep pool). I have read a few posts referring to other members mounting the skimmer high on the seam but despite searching could never find any posts or pictures.


Well, this year I finally decided to not only install it but to install it high, above the seam.

As you can see from this photo :
[attachment=1:283u5fe3]1-2013-05-09 13.52.24.jpg[/attachment:283u5fe3]

I installed it above the welded seam with the screws for the top of the faceplate passing through the sleeve for the top rail. To make this install I drilled holes through the sleeve on a downward angle from the outside to the inside so that when the two parts of the sleeve were pulled together they would line up better. It was a little tricky getting the screws started but I got the corners in first and the once they started to pull the sleeve together it was easy to get the others started. The biggest problem I had was trying to tighten the screws. I realised in the end that this was due to the type of skimmer I had. The instructions that came with it were aimed at the permanent AGP owner and talked about cutting through the metal wall and then installing the liner and fitting the skimmer (note: no mention of part filling the pool with water). Everything I read on this board relating to fitting to an Intex advised partial filling, so that is what I did.
I got to the point where I could tighten the screws no more but there remained an 1/8th inch gap between the seal and the pool liner. To say I was despondent would be an understatement, I was convinced that I had destroyed my pool :evil: :evil:
At this point I still had not actually cut the liner and I soon realised that the uncut portion (inside the faceplate) was as taught as a drum and theorized that maybe the tightness of the liner was stopping the faceplate from fully tightening :idea: :?: This particular skimmer pulls the liner between the faceplate and the outer part of the skimmer body to create the seal, the liner was pulled so tight that it couldn't be pulled in and thus the screws got too hard to turn anymore.
I slept on it overnight, then got up and quickly plunged the knife into the liner to relieve the pressure (before I could change my mind). The pool was now up to temperature so I could get into the pool to finish tightening the screws from the inside they snugged down nicely and VOILA! No leaks. :party: :whoot: :goodjob: :-D
[attachment=0:283u5fe3]1-2013-05-010.jpg[/attachment:283u5fe3]

I cannot express how happy I was. I hated the old floating intex skimmer. I now have great circulation and skimming and also the vacuuming is way easier and better.
[attachment=2:283u5fe3]1-2013-05-09 13.50.30.jpg[/attachment:283u5fe3]

I would now like to replace the Intex return with the one that came with my skimmer but the hole is a little larger but would be covered by the gaskets in the new return. Has anyone tried installing a standard return in the intex hole?

I hope this was useful to others as have seen a lot of members looking for posts with pictures. Feel free to ask questions.

Jeremy
 

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I purchased a return fitting to match the skimmer (waterway) I picked up for my new 18' x 52 ultra frame. After comparing it to the intex one, I've decided to go with the Intex one -- it seems equally sized to the waterway one. So unless you want something other than an eyeball return, I'm not sure there is any value to replacing it.

I'm now trying to decide if I am going to install the skimmer right over the top of the pre-cut intex intake, or if I should cut in a completely new location.. hmmmm.
 
linen- How much bigger is the hole?-I'm not sure as it is installed right now. I thought there was basically Intex size and everyone else :p

atitus74- I want to replace the Intex valve because I want to hard plumb the pool. I also want to be rid of the plunger valve which I feel restritcs the flow. Installing right over the old return may be the way to go.
 
I've seen pictures of a number of people hard plumbing the pool, and most of them are using 90 degree elbows on the return fittings. How much better is that really over the plunger valve in terms of flow restriction? Has anyone actually tested it?
 
Jeremy, if you take away the wide mouth part to your skimmer, then you have the standard skimmer left that I just threw on this weekend. I also had many, many issues tightening the screws up and even simply lining up the screws in the first place. I believe the people who don't have problems cut the butterfly gasket apart which helps alot....that and some RTV. Using the butterfly gasket properly would have been easier if I has added material to fill up the gap in between the butterfly. I needed to open up the hole I cut by an additional 1/8 inch in order for my butterfly gasket to lay down correctly and allow me to screw the two parts together.

Let's talk inlets: I got two of the standard 1 1/2" hayward inlets and didn't use a simple eyeball inlet. Someone here had recommended a jet that had cutouts that made it so the inlet functioned with a venturi effect. I can tell you they work great!!

If you want to hard plump with Intex stuff, .....you will have to get the PVC electrical fitting that workes with 1 1/2" PVC (it's listed on the Intex recommended threads). Otherwise, to use the standard 1 1/2" AGP stuff, yes you will have to open the hole up.....my opinion, do it, it's well worth it.

Bob E.
 
fast1971chevelle-Thanks for your reply. I did try dry fitting the standard return before the pool was full and it looked like it may seal. The hole is approximately 1/2" larger than the fitting but it looked like the seals with the new return would probably have enough overlap to work OK.
I may try doing a "quick switch" without lowering the water level and try not to loose too much water!?

Safetybob- I already have all the parts for the hard plumb. Just need to find a little uninterrupted "dad" time to get it done.
I have seen those venturi effect returns and may try one out if I successfully convert to the standard return.
I'm not quite sure what you were saying in your first paragraph :? I'm thinking you did a little editing and the result was a little muddled :?: :)
 
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