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Thread: Pristine Blue Conversion

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    Pristine Blue Conversion

    Ok.. So, this is all new to me. I was a pool store newbie 3 years ago, and was set up with pristine blue. It sounded great. This is going on our fourth summer of having the pool. It has stayed clean and sparkling until this year. When I opened, it was cloudy and had algea growing on the stairs. I started using the pool store recommendatations and ended up really cloudy and dirty looking. So, I started research and stumbled across this site. I now see the error of my ways. I have read everything I can and I started the conversion to chlorine using bleach and a little dichlor. The problem is that it is sucking up chlorine like I you cannot imagine.
    Let me start at the beginning.. I purchased the recommended kit. I started testing and using pool calculator to "SHOCK" the pool based on recommendations. To date, I have added about 6 gallons of bleach and 10 lbs of dichlor. Last night, I added the dichlor (enough that should have raised me to FC of 24, because i had very little CYA. Two hours after adding My FC was 17, CC was 1.4. At 630 this am (just as the sun was rising), here are my numbers

    FC 0.4
    CC 0.2
    PH 7.0
    ALK 90
    CYA 60-70 (hubby and I couldn't agree on the number)
    Calcium - unknown because I cannot get the test to turn blue, just purple.

    Prior to adding the dichlor last night my alk was 100 and ph 7.2. So, I realize I need to correct those. No problem. I am worried about the amount of chlorine and it not stabilizing. I was aiming for a higher CYA (as recommended on here) because we are in Northwest FLORIDA and have solid sunshine on the pool most days from 630a-630 p. Also, I am not sure what my copper is right now, but it has been a month since I added any BLUE. I can get it tested if you need it.
    Anything advise is MUCH appreciated. I forgot to add that I have 17100 gal.

    Tami
    27' round AGP, 17100 gal, Vinyl liner, Sand filter, Full Sunshine all day (most days)
    Northwest, Florida

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    BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: Pristine Blue Conversion

    tamiwithani

    Welcome to TFP

    I would stop using the dichlor immediately. Your CYA is already on the high side and may even increase a bit from here since it can take up to a week for all recently added CYA to show up in your test results (although dichlor dissolves much quicker than pure CYA). I would use liquid bleach as the chlorine source.

    When testing CYA, be sure to measure the test results in bright midday sun while holding the CYA tube at waist level and stand with your back to the sun. That test is the most subjective and bright light is needed to get an accurate reading.

    The shock process can take some time - days or even a week or so depending on the severity of the outbreak you are fighting. So, the chlorine usage is normal, especially when beginning the shock process. Over time, the chlorine usage should begin to drop as more contaminates are killed. During the shock process, be sure to brush frequently (a couple times per day) to loosen any contaminants that are stubbornly clinging to the pool walls, light fixtures, ladders, etc. Ladders can be an especially good hiding place for algae, so pay particularly good attention there. If you use pool toys, beach balls, etc., I would disinfect those as well prior to reintroducing them into the pool.

    While you are going through the shock process, ignore the pH. The FC at shock levels can skew the pH. If you try to adjust pH during the shock process, you can easily over-compensate. Test pH after the shock process when FC returns to the normal maintenance range for your CYA level.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Pristine Blue Conversion

    Ok, Thanks!
    How often do I need to check the Chlorine levels throughout the day? I have been checking in the am and pm - then adding to get up to shock level. I was wondering if I need to shoot for a level above the recommended shock in order to keep it from completely depleting over night? If so, how far above is safe?
    I was really getting worried about the amounts of chlorine.. I guess you are saying that my water was just super dirty?

    Thanks, again.
    Tami
    27' round AGP, 17100 gal, Vinyl liner, Sand filter, Full Sunshine all day (most days)
    Northwest, Florida

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: Pristine Blue Conversion

    If so, how far above is safe?
    Well, in theory, none. Of course, a little extra surely wouldn't hurt but the guidelines are there for the express purpose of being safe.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: Pristine Blue Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by tamiwithani
    How often do I need to check the Chlorine levels throughout the day?
    Unfortunately, there is no single correct answer to this question. The best answer is, as often as needed to stay within the target shock FC range as defined by your pool's CYA. That could mean several times a day.

    Understanding the reality of life that many of us work at a location outside the home and may not have other family members that can test/dose throughout the day, you could try this approach: Try getting up a little earlier than normal (ideally at least 2 hours before you have to leave for the day) and immediately test and add chlorine. Repeat right before you leave for work. Upon returning home, test and dose with chlorine and repeat just before going to bed for the night. When dosing, aim for the higher end of the target FC range at least until the chlorine usage levels off a bit. Yes, this approach still concentrates your testing/dosing in the morning and evening, but it would double the number of test/dosing sessions from your current schedule. Also, keep in mind that the shock FC range is a target and not an absolute minimum. If the FC drops a point or two below the lower bound of the target range between your testing/dosing sessions, don't sweat it too much - just dose up to the high end of the shock target range the next time you test and add chlorine.

    If testing twice in the morning is not doable then if coming home for lunch is an option, you could run a test and dose then. Even better yet is if you have other family members or trusted friends that could test/dose at different times of the day, that would obviously be an even better approach and is more likely to keep FC within the target range without overdosing and would speed up the shock process.

    The shock process is effective but not necessarily convenient However, the inconvenience is temporary.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: Pristine Blue Conversion

    Thanks so much for the advice.
    I think we are on the right track now. Yesterday, I came home at lunch and I am losing much less chlorine. Same when I came home at the end of the day. I take that as a good sign, even though it was not that sunny. The day before we were completely depleted by the end of the day. Overnight we lost only 3ppm. So, I am redosing and will check again at lunch. I think we are on the home stretch!!
    27' round AGP, 17100 gal, Vinyl liner, Sand filter, Full Sunshine all day (most days)
    Northwest, Florida

  7. Back To Top    #7
    BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: Pristine Blue Conversion

    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

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