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Thread: DIY in the show me state

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    anguspoe's Avatar
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    DIY in the show me state

    Getting ready to start the dig in a few weeks. Give me some time to put some finishing touches of everything. Any feedback would be great. attached are the ruff elec and plum plans

    The Run down
    16x32 steel from royalswimmingpool
    Corner Radius: 24-inch
    Brace System: A-Frame_deck_support
    Cantilever-forms-steps
    8' Straight Back Sit-n-Step
    1.5hp Tri-Star
    24" Hayward Sand 1-1/2"
    Pool-Depth: Non-diving_5ft-8in
    6 - Pentair Two Port Diverter Vale 1-1/2
    Pentair IntelliBrite Controller
    2 - Pentair IntelliBrite LED Light 120V, 30W, 100 Cord
    Pentair IC40 Complete Salt System
    TF-100 Testkit
    AquaChek Salt Test Strips
    1 - 1/2 PVC 40

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    4knights's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    I think you might lose a lot of power running #8 125ft. You should be running #6 minimum for that long of a run and possibly even #4. (not an electrician, just advice I got from one when building my pool)

    I have the Easytouch panel 85 feet from the house main panel with a 220/60amp GFCI feeding the Easytouch load center. I ran #6 for both load wires, the common and groundwire.
    Ron- Kansas. IG fiberglass, Riviera 30 Freeform 13600 gallons,
    EasyTouch 4 w/IC20 SWCG, Pentair Whisperflo 1hp, 2 speed 220 pump, Hayward ProGrid 4820 DE filter using Eco Klean instead of DE, 2 Savi Melody 12v 5 color LEDs, Raypack 266k btu millivolt heater, Arctic Armour Mesh custom safety cover (Total self Install) TF-100 test kit w/Magic stir.

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    anguspoe's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    You are correct typo on my part. 40 amp service from the main
    Best voltage drop calc I've found. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltag ... ulator.htm

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    Which tristar are you looking at? If it is the SP3215EE, that appears to be way to much for your pool.

    First we highly recommend a 2-speed since most of the time you will want to run on low. Something more in line with what you need would be the superpump SP2607X102S. Do you plan to have any water features other than what you showed?

    Also, I would go with at least 2" inch pipe, even it you are plumbing seperate returns and supplies.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    4knights's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    Quote Originally Posted by anguspoe
    You are correct typo on my part. 40 amp service from the main
    Best voltage drop calc I've found. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltag ... ulator.htm
    With all the lighting, and your equipment running off the one panel i would still recommend 60 amp breaker in a 100 or 125 amp panel. It's far easier to put more power out there now than it is later on when you decide to add other items.

    The calculator you posted shows #6 wire for 40 amp with a 2% drop over 125 ft.

    My load center is 220 volt / 125 amp max, spots for 10 single breakers or any combination of double/singles only using 4 beakers now but I know I will add to it later as the landscape design changes.
    Ron- Kansas. IG fiberglass, Riviera 30 Freeform 13600 gallons,
    EasyTouch 4 w/IC20 SWCG, Pentair Whisperflo 1hp, 2 speed 220 pump, Hayward ProGrid 4820 DE filter using Eco Klean instead of DE, 2 Savi Melody 12v 5 color LEDs, Raypack 266k btu millivolt heater, Arctic Armour Mesh custom safety cover (Total self Install) TF-100 test kit w/Magic stir.

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    anguspoe's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Which tristar are you looking at? If it is the SP3215EE, that appears to be way to much for your pool.

    First we highly recommend a 2-speed since most of the time you will want to run on low. Something more in line with what you need would be the superpump SP2607X102S. Do you plan to have any water features other than what you showed?

    Also, I would go with at least 2" inch pipe, even it you are plumbing seperate returns and supplies.
    SP3215EE was the one that was ordered - Will be calling to see about changing it out for a Pentair SuperFlo 1HP 2 Speed 340042

    Quote Originally Posted by 4knights
    Quote Originally Posted by anguspoe
    You are correct typo on my part. 40 amp service from the main
    Best voltage drop calc I've found. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltag ... ulator.htm
    With all the lighting, and your equipment running off the one panel i would still recommend 60 amp breaker in a 100 or 125 amp panel. It's far easier to put more power out there now than it is later on when you decide to add other items.

    The calculator you posted shows #6 wire for 40 amp with a 2% drop over 125 ft.

    My load center is 220 volt / 125 amp max, spots for 10 single breakers or any combination of double/singles only using 4 beakers now but I know I will add to it later as the landscape design changes.
    Based on the calc. 240 w/ 3% drop, cable run of 125 and an end amp of 40 - #8 - Loss of of 6.9 = 233.1v at the panel.

    Pentair pump has only an amp draw of 6 on high and 2.3 on low - 240 20 amp breaker
    IC40 SWG has a draw of 1 amp
    Max 7 amp on a 240v 20 amp breaker

    Intellibrite G5 30 watts each - has a draw of .25amps
    LV Landscaping lights 300 = 2.5 amps
    so far only 2.75 amps on a 20 amp circuit

    can understand it would be better upfront - as of now there are no plans for a heat pump, but maybe some more lighting

  7. Back To Top    #7
    4knights's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    Just trying to help you think about it up front. Price of copper continues to rise plus cost and time to fish larger wire later on. For a couple extra bucks I'd go with #6.
    If you buy a whole reel at HD or Lowes you can simply color tape the other three wires on each end. I did that using a 500 foot spool red #6 wire and then split it evenly between 4 wires, taped both ends for white, black and green. All four slipped nicely in the 1 1/2 inch conduit.
    Either way enjoy your build! I did my own and am proud every time I look out the back door. Another project done for less than 2/3rds of what the local builders wanted. It looks better than what they have installed as well.
    Ron- Kansas. IG fiberglass, Riviera 30 Freeform 13600 gallons,
    EasyTouch 4 w/IC20 SWCG, Pentair Whisperflo 1hp, 2 speed 220 pump, Hayward ProGrid 4820 DE filter using Eco Klean instead of DE, 2 Savi Melody 12v 5 color LEDs, Raypack 266k btu millivolt heater, Arctic Armour Mesh custom safety cover (Total self Install) TF-100 test kit w/Magic stir.

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    anguspoe's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    Thanks for the input-. I ended up moving the pump station to the other side of the house which is about a 40' run. Should make things a little easier.

    Well after getting plot maps, found out we have an easement right in the middle of were the pool was going to be. So we turned it 90 and had to move it close to the house.

    With the A/C that close to the pool will the compressor need a GFI beaker and bonding?

    Compressor is about 10' from water edge

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    alanpaul's Avatar
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    Re: DIY in the show me state

    DIYitsms,
    Seriously, I'd very strongly suggest one (1) more return into the pool, specifically at the lower left corner of your drawing above, coming out from the short end of the pool.

    It is absolutely necessary to direct the water to move down the long side of the pool, on the opposite side from the skimmer. You want to create a circular motion, hence circulation.

    Without it, due to wave action, water will just rush back and forth across the pool, and any debris falling into the pool will never flow around to the skimmer corner.

    With the pool being 32 feet long, I'd fear that only 2 returns, running on low speed wouldn't move the water sufficiently to skim the pool efficiently, but that's just my opinion.
    Thanks.
    Alan in Wellington, FL - near West Palm Beach
    15,200 gal IG, painted plaster, 1988; 200 SqFt cartridge filter, 2013; 1.5 HP 1-speed pump (uprated), 2005; heat pump, 2005;
    soon to repair (dead) SWG AquaRite T-15 cell, 2005, and replace (dead) suction-side cleaner, 2005.
    Almost everything died this winter 2012-'13, and I know we shouldn't complain... but, Arrgh!

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