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Thread: Question about adding chemicals

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    Question about adding chemicals

    This is probably a stupid question and different people have told me different things...
    Ok when I'm adding solid chemicals to the pool i have been mixing up the solids into a liquid and pouring in the deep end. I'm leaving my valve setting on filter to keep catching all of the organic material I have in my pool. Does my sand filter catch any of the chemicals and prevent it's release into the pool? I've also had other people/videos say to put chemicals directly into the skimmer but that makes me nervous especially if I have my filter setting on (if it's on recirculate it doesn't bother me.) If I've missed the answer to this somewhere I'm sorry.

    My pool had lots of Algae (Green) when I opened it and I aggressively shocked and added stabilizer. I've been working with it all week and we have also had lots of rain. My pool has steadily been getting clearer the past 3 days since my filter has been on constantly. Still not crystal but is an aqua blue.

    My last tests are here
    PH Approximately 6.6 range. Couldn't get exact measurement since my Taylor FAS-DPD kit doesn't go lower than 7.0 (results appeared yellow). I had some test strips that indicate its in the 6.6 range.
    TA= 70
    FC= 11
    CC= .5
    CH=150 (not as this is important since it's vinyl) pool guy sold me some calcium chloride and didn't realize i didn't need it until later)
    CYA=?? I think this is in the range of 30-50 from test strips but don't want to use regeants on this yet since i only have 4 tests with my kit.
    Central GA, USA
    36K gal IG vinyl, 1.5 HP Haywood pump
    Hayward S-240 Sand Filter
    Hayward Chlorine Feeder
    Polaris 280

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Predissolving is good. If t gets caught in the filter, it will just dissolve in there, unless you backwash, in which case you'll lose some.

    You'll need to do at least one CYA test now, so you'll know the target FC level for the shock process.

    Maybe it's time to go reread Pool School?
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    My last tests are here
    PH Approximately 6.6 range. Couldn't get exact measurement since my Taylor FAS-DPD kit doesn't go lower than 7.0 (results appeared yellow). I had some test strips that indicate its in the 6.6 range.
    TA= 70.............
    You need to get your pH up to the low 7's ASAP. Do this first.

    BTW, we recommend the sock method for adding CYA.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320
    Predissolving is good. If t gets caught in the filter, it will just dissolve in there, unless you backwash, in which case you'll lose some.

    You'll need to do at least one CYA test now, so you'll know the target FC level for the shock process.

    Maybe it's time to go reread Pool School?
    I know when I started it was 0. I've added enough CYA to bring it to about 30. Plus I'm using a chlorinator tabs that have the stabilizer in them. I've read that the tabs can make CYA levels go up really high over time and I plan on monitoring that. I've read pool school.. I think I've came a really long way in just a few days. Yes I don't expect to know as much in the first week as some of you guys.
    Central GA, USA
    36K gal IG vinyl, 1.5 HP Haywood pump
    Hayward S-240 Sand Filter
    Hayward Chlorine Feeder
    Polaris 280

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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by Butterfly
    My last tests are here
    PH Approximately 6.6 range. Couldn't get exact measurement since my Taylor FAS-DPD kit doesn't go lower than 7.0 (results appeared yellow). I had some test strips that indicate its in the 6.6 range.
    TA= 70.............
    You need to get your pH up to the low 7's ASAP. Do this first.

    BTW, we recommend the sock method for adding CYA.
    Thanks for the sock tip. I will do that for now on. I just added about 11 pounds of Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) to bring my TA up a little and heard that it can also bring PH up. I'm not sure exactly how much it will bring it up since pool calculator figures using Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash). I wanted to let that get in there good before doing the Soda Ash.
    Central GA, USA
    36K gal IG vinyl, 1.5 HP Haywood pump
    Hayward S-240 Sand Filter
    Hayward Chlorine Feeder
    Polaris 280

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    PoolCalc has an "Effects of Adding Chemicals" section near the bottom of page:

    176 ozs (11 lbs) of baking soda (36K gallon pool) sould raise TA by 22 and raise pH by 0.04.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by Butterfly
    PoolCalc has an "Effects of Adding Chemicals" section near the bottom of page:

    176 ozs (11 lbs) of baking soda (36K gallon pool) sould raise TA by 22 and raise pH by 0.04.
    Thank you! I can't believe I missed that
    Central GA, USA
    36K gal IG vinyl, 1.5 HP Haywood pump
    Hayward S-240 Sand Filter
    Hayward Chlorine Feeder
    Polaris 280

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by justknight
    Quote Originally Posted by Butterfly
    PoolCalc has an "Effects of Adding Chemicals" section near the bottom of page:

    176 ozs (11 lbs) of baking soda (36K gallon pool) sould raise TA by 22 and raise pH by 0.04.
    Thank you! I can't believe I missed that
    You're welcome! Now get that pH up sooner rather than later!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Ok, another question. My latest test results are
    PH 7.6
    TA: 130
    FC: 15
    CC: .5 - 1.0 - near the lowside of this, i was doing the .5 test and it was very close to clear after 1 drop
    CYA: last check 35

    I added 3 boxes of Borax, 38 oz of shock to bring it up to these levels. What is bothering me now is the clarity of the water. It has a nice aqua marine look but it's a little cloudy still. I've been filtering since Mon April 29th. I've only backwashed once. Right after backwash with everything clear my baseline pressure is 19 p.s.i. I backwashed about 3 days ago and my pressure is only about 22 p.s.i. Does it normally take this long for sand to filter? Should I look into replacing sand, or am I just being too impatient in going from swamp to crystal clear water?
    Central GA, USA
    36K gal IG vinyl, 1.5 HP Haywood pump
    Hayward S-240 Sand Filter
    Hayward Chlorine Feeder
    Polaris 280

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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Considering the pollen storm we had last week, it can take a little while.
    A week of filtering and green to almost clean is pretty good, in my [noob] opinion.
    26900 gal IG Vinyl (18'x36', 3' shallow end and 8' deep end plus steps)
    sand filter and 2.7hp variable speed timer
    Jandy Ei SWG (2yr old)

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Well, 36K gallons is a lot to filter! You do not need to replace your sand, but you might need to clean the filer if you have not done so in a while. Here's instructions:
    my-sand-is-channeled-how-to-fix-it-t7626.html


    You might want to try adding DE.
    Here's instructions: pool-school/add_de_to_a_sand_filter

    If the filter is working properly, then the DE could help lots.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by Butterfly
    Well, 36K gallons is a lot to filter! You do not need to replace your sand, but you might need to clean the filer if you have not done so in a while. Here's instructions:
    my-sand-is-channeled-how-to-fix-it-t7626.html


    You might want to try adding DE.
    Here's instructions: pool-school/add_de_to_a_sand_filter

    If the filter is working properly, then the DE could help lots.
    Thanks for all of your help. I put some super clarifier in it and it has helped a lot (don't hit me, I'm inpatient.) I can see the drain on the deep end now. Pool still isn't crystal but it's coming along. I have lots of pecan trees around my yard and they drop blooms like crazy so I know that isn't helping. Anyway thanks for all of your help guys!
    Central GA, USA
    36K gal IG vinyl, 1.5 HP Haywood pump
    Hayward S-240 Sand Filter
    Hayward Chlorine Feeder
    Polaris 280

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Skip the clarifier until you are done with the OCLT<1, and CC<0.5 criteria in the shocking process, then if the only one you are not passing is the "water is crystal clear" criteria, then you can try clarifier. Before that, you are just wasting you money. Before trying clarifier, I would try the DE in you sand filter.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    Geez, I just discovered a hole about the length of a quarter maybe 1/4 inch wide on the bottom of the pool in the deep end. That could explain the cloudiness. I will have to drain the pool to fix it won't I?
    Central GA, USA
    36K gal IG vinyl, 1.5 HP Haywood pump
    Hayward S-240 Sand Filter
    Hayward Chlorine Feeder
    Polaris 280

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    I think there are patches you can apply underwater, but I have no experience.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    I have no experience either with the patches. Don't see why a hole would explain the cloudiness though.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Question about adding chemicals

    I agree with FPM, that shouldn't cause the cloudiness.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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