very slight algae

Lisa, I still suggest that you need to take it to mustard algae shock level.

The CYA test can be +/- 15ppm ish. So the CYA could be maybe 95 ish.
You could possibly be hitting just under the true shock level for your CYA......
.....which would cause this... :brickwall:

We've air expressed a new can of POP to you :-D and some popcorn. You provide libations of your choice..... ::epds::

Your pool is beautiful.
 
Ok...according to cya chart by chem geek ......shock levels that high because of my high CYA maybe impractical .....

sorry guys....but this site is now giving me conflicting information.....just like last night when I asked the question about my solar cover......

According to the chart....I would have to bring my FC level to over 50!
 
According to the chart....I would have to bring my FC level to over 50!
Well, the highest number on the chart is 39 and the highest number for a CYA of 80 is 31 ppm.

What conflicting information are you talking about?

What was the issue with your solar cover?

Lisa, thousands of us on this forum have used what we teach for one simple reason....it works. At some point, you will have to decide if it works for you or not but it does work.

We not may be able to precisely analyze why you are having difficulty but we know the solution and that is to keep your chlorine up until the pool stops consuming it.
 
Butterfly said I should shock to mustard algae level because my CYA reading could be off by up to 15 point and that maybe I'm just below the required shock level.....

So if I try to go to mustard shock level for a 90 CYA that is really high! And the chart has a star next to it that says those levels are not practical...?

0 ................. 0.071 ........... 0.111 ................ 0.151 .................. 0.641 .............. 1.501
10 ............... 0.81 ............. 1.21 .................. 1.61 .................... 4.5 .................. 7.1
20 ............... 1.51 ............. 2.4 .................... 3.1 ..................... 8.3 ................ 12.7
30 ............... 2.2 ............... 3.5 .................... 4.6 ................... 12.2 ................ 18.2
40 ............... 2.9 ............... 4.6 .................... 6.1 ................... 16.0 ................ 23.8
50 ............... 3.7 ............... 5.7 .................... 7.5 ................... 19.8 ................ 29.42
60 ............... 4.4 ............... 6.8 .................... 9.0 ................... 23.7 ................ 34.92
70 ............... 5.1 ............... 8.0 .................. 10.5 ................... 27.52 ............... 40.52
80 ............... 5.8 ............... 9.1 .................. 12.0 ................... 31.42 ............... 46.12
90 ............... 6.6 ............. 10.2 .................. 13.5 ................... 35.22 ............... 51.72
100 ............. 7.3 ............. 11.4 .................. 14.9 ................... 39.12 ............... 57.32
120 ............. 8.7 ............. 13.6 .................. 17.9 ................... 46.72 ............... 68.42

1A minimum FC level is needed as a "reserve" for usage so in practice at least 2 ppm FC is required even at low CYA levels. The table above shows the amount needed for disinfecting chlorine for equivalent killing power (rates), but does not take into account the amount needed in reserve to prevent getting used up as this varies by pool.

2The shock levels shown have equivalent disinfecting chlorine amounts (in a column) but at high CYA levels it may be impractical to use such high FC levels. A partial drain/refill to lower the CYA level is usually what is needed or one can shock at a lower level but will take longer to kill the algae.




I understand that you say it works for you....I've now tried it and yes....I'm questioning it because I should....you can't believe everything you read on the Internet......you should ask QUESTIONs so you can decide for your self.

thank you
 
My question about the solar cover last night was because someone in another thread advised that the cover needed to be clean before it was used again because it could contain Algae spores.....when I asked the question....I received two different answers from expert/ Moderators. I don't know how to link the posts here. To show you
 

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Lisaheidinger said:
Butterfly said I should shock to mustard algae level because my CYA reading could be off by up to 15 point and that maybe I'm just below the required shock level.....
The comments about +/- CYA test is a general comment that is applicable to anyone who does not feel the shock level is working. If testing and dosing are being done correctly, then maybe the CYA test is off a little bit and the shock level needs to be upped a little to compensate.

Yes, I suggested that you use mustard algae shock level. For your CYA of about 80, that would be around 44 or 46, depending on if you use Richard's chart or the Pool Calculator. Since you were already dosing to 30, it would not take much chlorine (small pool) to get it to 44 or 46.

Lisaheidinger said:
...And the chart has a star next to it that says those levels are not practical...?
Um, not exactly. Richard said :
Richard a/k/a chem geek said:
..but at high CYA levels it may be impractical to use such high FC levels
Well, at 10K gallons, your pool is relatively small and you have a SWG (that requires high CYA), your culprit is invisible, and you appear (in my mind) to be close to winning this battle, so I felt that it was a practical suggestion. I also suggested that you do it at night. That way you get the best bang for the buck.
 
Sorry if you are feeling confused about conflicting information. I have personally seen algae live on solar covers (my own) and am suggesting that while you have it at shock level (not MA level) you put in the pool and use a nylon pole brush to get water on the top and brush any visible algae with shock-level chlorinated water (which I personally have done). The alternative is to spread it somewhere (which you have stated you don't have room to do) and clean it independently. I hope this makes sense :)
 
Pool mom...it made sense to me that algae could be on the cover because the cover was on when I discovered that I had a bloom. I guess my question is more about the future.....could putting it away wet cause algae to grow on it and could it introduce algae to the pool...or will pool water kill any algae once I keep it at the correct FC levels.

thanks
 
Internet reveals plenty of yard space (acres) that could be utilized to dry cover, my guess is it would be unrealistic to drag cover out on regular basis to do any drying. Keep at it as soon as guests are gone. I know this is frustrating especially with any doubters that may be questioning what you are doing and what is being recommended here to you. But really BBB is about understanding what is happening in your pool. Once you understand you can fix it. I hope you have a great mini vacay with your friends, and are able to lick this proper as soon as they are gone. I understand your husband wanting to swim too, I swim up to shock level, not MA level, and it is fine.

The real question is if you don't do what you've been doing, what are you going to do? What is your pool store telling you to do?
 
Things have changed....no company this weekend. :(

I took stock of what I had to work with and the advice given yesterday now that I have more time. ( Company is coming next weekend instead)

I did not have enough testing regent to try and raise to Mustard level (I ordered more). The best I could do was keep it just above 30 for another day.

I really WANT to believe your system is the answer but going backwards is shaking my confidence. I have lost all support at home.....(he thinks I'm a crazy woman)

Again is was very easy to keep chlorine about 30-32 all day in the bright sunshine...by evening I had to add a lot more bleach to keep it above 30. My last test of the night at 10 pm:

FC 32
CC 0

This morning at 7am:

FC 24
CC 0

Again a backwards step!! Do you see my concern?

My OCLT results have been:
9 ppm loss
2.5 ppm loss
3.5 ppm loss
5.5 ppm loss
8 ppm loss

What is going on with my pool? Again it is crystal clear...not a trace of anything

:drown:
 
I would like you to review your testing techniques.
How are you holding the dropper bottle? Are you squeezing - are the drops uniform in size.
Are you testing the pool from the same location every time.
How soon after adding chlorine are you taking your sample?
 
I have watched the videos on the TF test kit site...I am holding the bottle vertical and letting each drop hang on the tip and drop.

I am getting test water from the same place in the pool as deep as my arm reaches.

I am trying to be very precise in the 10 ml water level in cylinder.

I am testing at the same times both night and morning


My last test for the night is always at least 2-3 hours after the last addition of any bleach.
 
yesterday...i tried something different. I left my SWG off all day and kept the FC above 30 with just the addition of bleach ( in other words no help from the SWG)

Again....it seems odd that I can keep the FC above 30 easily during the sunny day....but always need to add more between 4pm and 7pm after the sun is off the pool.

I have been using only a 5ml sample during the day to keep my FC levels up to try and save on my regent.

yesterday...I used the full 10ml sample during the day.....that is now why I'm almost out.
 

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