Stain on deep end sides of vinyl liner

May 1, 2013
2
I have a 23,000 gal vinyl liner pool, opened it 9 days ago and there is a brownish yellow stain only on deep end sides , below water level that cannot be brushed off. I had my water tested yesterday as follows:

FC 5
TC 5
pH 6.8 which is now 7.2 due o borax
TA 50 which is now 80
CYA 100
Calcium Hardness 100, bought stuff yesterday but reading your forum info should not worry about it in a vinyl liner pool, correct? Should I return it I have not used any?

TDS 700
Copper/iron 0
Phosphates forgot to test, reading forum info does not matter in a vinyl liner pool correct?

I do have a heater hooked up to the pool that's not bypassed, incorrect calcium and phosphates do not effect the piping in the heater, correct?

I rubbed an orange on the stains did not touch it. So it's not metal, copper or iron stains any suggestions? I have never had or seen it before. I did add a bottle day 5 of opening of conquest sparkle, which I use every year for stains on the fiberglass steps and love seat, did not touch the liner side stains.

I do use chlorine tabs in a chlorinater , borax and bakin soda as needed. I have had high levels of Chlorine since the pool was opened, chlorinator is off right now.

Please let me know any suggestions on the stains, I am at a loss. They tried to sell me $50 stain remover but my chlorine needs to be down to 1 and I wanted to do the orange thing for metals before I bought it. That might be my only solution right now unless your have suggestion?

Thanks Again

Kelli
 
Kelli, is there anyway you can take like a towel/wash cloth to the area? I had stains all over my pool that would not brush off but surprisingly came off on the towel.

Phosphates are irrelevant in ANY POOL, not just vinyl, provided you maintain the proper FC levels according to the CYA/Chlorine chart. If your CYA really is only 100 (tests only read up to 100) then your FC is already TOO LOW.

These are pool store test results which we tend to distrust. I recommend you study up a bit some more reading articles on testing your own water and the advantages of that - and why you need your own test kit, either the TF100 or the Taylor k2006. Both of these kits are best ordered online - TF100 only sold online and the Taylor kit found in stores is almost ALWAYS the wrong one (2005) and the pool store will tell you its fine when it's not.

Now, one last thing - your FC is too low based on your CYA - if accurate. I used to have "organic staining" back when I was being pool stored. Once I started maintaining the proper FC levels, the stains vanished and did not return.

Edit: One last thing - on the heater - if you have an active warranty check to see if they required a minimum CH level - some warranties require 200-250 or thereabouts.
 
The pool is 50 degrees so I cannot wipe it with a towel, I will have to wait till we heat it on Sat. I do have a good water test kit, I always test my water, just go once a week to get it doubled checked. Is the only wAy I can get the CYA down is to drain some water and refill? I have been taking care of my pool for 7 seasons and never had high CYA and everything out of whack.

Do you suggest I use liquid chlorine instead of tabs though the chlorinator ? My father in law did for years.
I went ahead and added the hardness plus since I do have a heater that is not bypassed. It's really strange that my chlorine level has not dropped since they opened the pool 9 days ago, we have had little heat or sun.

I appreciate all your help.

Kelli
 
Yes the only way to lower CYA is to replace water, through partial drains and refills - be careful when draining a vinyl pool don't go down to low. Your FC will hold really high when CYA is that high. I'm guessing its higher than 100. Try the dilution method - 1 part pool water to 1 part tap water.

Yes, if you plan to run with CYA that high - liquid is your only option. Tablets won't be able to keep the FC at your min - you need to refer to the CYA chart - and they will only compound the CYA problem.
 
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