Foreclosure Swamp

[bmalouf]

Hello everyone. I recently purchased a foreclosure home that has a pool in the backyard. Power to the pool was shut down approximately 1 year ago and the pool has sat uncovered since then until about 2 months ago. The home went to HUD and once it changed hands again HUD covered it with 2x6's, hog wire, and black plastic. The pool sat all fall and winter uncovered which all the fall leaves and debris went right into the pool. I have been frequenting this forum for quite awhile. I am a first time pool owner and I am going to attempt to get this thing up and going. A little history on the pool. I was able to find the builder of the pool. The pool was built in 2007 and as far as my knowledge has had very little issues since then. The pool was in great looking condition before the home was foreclosed on. According to the builder it is about 35,000 gallons. I am removing the cover tomorrow and will be able to take measurements to get a better idea on the capacity. The builder also stated that the plaster was Diamond Brite and the color was Caribbean Blue. I believe the builder is more so a sub it out type of builder so I really only got the basics. The pool has all Pentair equipment (60sqft FNS plus, 2 2.5hp whisperflows, 1 3/4hp booster pump, I believe a 400,000 btu Minimax NT, a polaris spa blower, and all controls are on manual timers). The pool at this point is a deep green/black but with some clarity. It is a diving pool which i believe is somewhere around 8'. In the shallow end you are able to somewhat see the leaves in the bottom. In the deep end with a light you can see probably close to 3-3.5' until visibility becomes zero. The pool has sat roughly close to a year with minimal water loss. Starting tomorrow we will get the cover off and start getting the leaves and debris out of the bottom. Once that is done we will start the chemical process. I ordered a TFT100 kit and received it this afternoon. I will get a water test in the morning and post the results. The Diamond Brite has a lot of algae build u on it and I hope it does not stain. The pool equipment has a lot of leaves around it which will be cleaned out also. This pool has a manual ball valve at the equipment which I believe is also controlled with the sprinkler system to fill the pool. One other concern I have is that leaves and debris have been falling into the heater vent since the heater has been there. I plan on pulling the cover and vacuuming it out to clear it to run a test on the unit. I have learned a wealth of knowledge from this site and always enjoyed the swamp posts. If you have any suggestions or see that I should do something different please send it my way. I will keep you updated on the progress as we are excited to get this pool up and running!!! More pictures to come tomorrow as we remove the cover. Thanks, Bryan

Pool from Roof

Equipment Pad

plaster(Diamond Brite??)

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, bmalouf

Looks like you have been a lurker for awhile

That sure doesn't look like 35000 gallons to me. I would guess it's less than 20000 (maybe a lot less). Post some dimensions and we can help estimate.

Let us know what questions you have!

 

[bmalouf]

Welcome to tfp, bmalouf

Looks like you have been a lurker for awhile

That sure doesn't look like 35000 gallons to me. I would guess it's less than 20000 (maybe a lot less). Post some dimensions and we can help estimate.

Let us know what questions you have!

When he told me that i thought it seemed rather high. I will get dimensions, test results and pictures with the cover off tomorrow. Thanks for the help!!

 

[Blessedwithfivekids]

Best of luck. Can't wait to follow your post. :-D

Sandy

 

[257WbyMag]

Welcome to TFP!

First things first. Get the cover off, scoop out the mess, top it off, and fire up the pump. Once you have confirmed that water is moving like it should be, you can then test and balance your water.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Ya what Mag said - don't bother testing till you can get the water circulating. You can do it, and I'm gonna enjoy the Pool Porn (pics of the process lol)
BTW - you were lucky - I have renovated several foreclosed pools around here and almost every situation some or all of the equipment was poached before home was purchased by new owner.

 

[Sciz Milson]

Another green swamp to blue oasis thread....EXCELLENT!

Keep 'em coming...and good luck...

Best,

Sciz

 

[Richard320]

::

This ought to be fun to watch. That yard looks like it has the potential to be Shangri-la.

Party at bmalouf's house when it's up and running!

 

[Patrick_B]

Ill be anxious to see how this goes. Looks like a fun one to follow and I wish you luck.

 

[bmalouf]

Ok...It's been a busy past few days. We got the cover off and started getting the leaves out of the pool. Boy what a job that was. I got several wheel barrow loads out. I broke 3 pool poles in the process. The spa was mostly drained down so i got the water and leaves out of it. Once the water to the property was turned on we realized we had a water leak. Luckily it was not in the home but it was the fill valve at the pool equipment. I replaced it and then put a sprinkler valve inline(since there is not an auto fill) so this summer I can program so much water to go into the pool during the hottest months. Once that was replaced the refill began. Cleaned all the skimmers and pulled the DE filter apart to make sure all was ok. Once got as much debris and trash out as I could I started everything up. To my surprise everything worked like a charm. One of my Jandy check valves were bad so I replaced the front cover due to a crack causing a small leak. My spa jet booster and water fall pump spays water out the where the motor housing joins the pump housing. I am assuming there is a bad o ring there or seal. It is only momentarily upon startup but stops after about 5 seconds. Over the past 2 days the filter had to be backwashed many times and I have had to pull it apart and washed the grids at-least 4 times so far. Heres where I am not understanding things. I began with bleach. Lots of it. I used Clorox 8.25% That I bought from Sams. My starting chlorine was 0. We got up to 5 the first day. the next morning it was down to 1. I added more bleach and increased it back to 4. At this point my current test numbers are below after this morning. I need to know where to go from here. My other issue is that I cannot figure out how to do the CYA test correctly. I cannot get the black dot to disappear as the instructions say. I also believe there are more leaves on the bottom of the pool. I am going to buy a good pole today so I quit breaking them to get the leaves out. At this point I have the main drains off and I am pulling from the skimmers(2) and a wall suction that is used for the spa waterfall and fountain. The reason is i don't want any leaves on the bottom in the deep end to clog something. this morning the pool is still pretty green but I can now slightly see the second step in the shallow end. Every time i pull the filter apart it is filled with green mush(assuming dead algae) and its cleaning slowly but surely.

Test Results

K1000
PH 7.2
CL 2

TFT Kit
CL drop test
FC 2
CC 10.5
Total Alkalinity 150
CH 500? not sure if accurate
CYA cannot figure out test

Pics

Refilling pool through spa(pump not on at this point)

Running

where leak was

Oh and by the way don't hold your phone with you shoulder to you ear while trying to dip leaves out of the pool. it will hit the ground and bounce into the pool.......Iphone 5 totally ruined...

All i have for now

 

[spidey07]

If the black dot doesn't disappear and the tube is full then you effectively have CYA of zero. Target the FC using bleach to continue the shock process and keep it there. You may want to test FC every couple hours or multiple times a day as you're going to need a lot of bleach. The CC of 10.5 means the bleach is really combining with all the algae in the pool.

With zero CYA your FC will also be very quickly consumed by the sun so you can use poolcalculator to figure out how much you need to add to get to 30.

Keep that FC up and STAY THERE at shock levels and monitored while shocking and it WILL turn around. Good that all the plumbing is working, nice pool. And keep clearing debris out of the bottom, chlorine will attack that as well. And don't forget the brushing part of the shock process.

Sorry about the phone - I have a strict rule that my phone doesn't get within 5 feet of the pool. Ever. To this day I'm paranoid I'm going to jump in with it in my pocket one of these days.

One last thing, if your FC is below 10 you can get a pH test done just to check and see where it's at. At shocking chlorine levels the pH test isn't accurate. A pool that size is going to take a LOT of bleach.

 

[linen]

Looks like you are making great progress, that pool structure sure looks nice. Great news on the equipment!

My other issue is that I cannot figure out how to do the CYA test correctly. I cannot get the black dot to disappear as the instructions say.

Probably means your cya is near 0, which seems possible if the pool has been unmaintained for awhile, especially if you CC test is right. You may want to pick up an ammonia test kit at a local fish store, since when cya breaks down one of the products is ammonia. Either way, chlorine and lots of it is what is needed to break it down.

Speaking of cya, you need to get some in there to protect your chlorine from the sun. I would shoot for 20 ppm cya while doing the shocking process.

Speaking of the shocking process, You want to keep your FC level at/lightly above 10 ppm (for 0 cya per poolcalculator.com) as much as possible. Since you are likely getting rid of ammonia in addition to other organics and algae in the pool, this is going to take a lot of bleach/liquid chlorine and the more often you can test and dose the better (hourly if possible).

You still need to get your pool volume figured out for dosing purposes, so post some dimensions and we can help.

And keep getting as much stuff as the leaf net will get off the bottom of the pool...it will also use up your chlorine.

 

[linen]

One other thing, you said you had trouble with the CH test? What problem? It might help to review the extended test kit directions. If your CH is that high or even higher, then a partial drain/refill might make sense at this point. Also, doing a test on your fill water ph, TA, and CH might be helpful.

 

[bmalouf]

No real problems with calcium test but just seemed like it was a high number and I had to add a lot of drops to get the results. I will do a retest and now that I have the extended instructions I am more clear on things.

A few questions, just to be clear. So it takes bleach to raise CYA? And on the brushing will a nylon brush do or do I need a nylon with stainless bristles for the diamond brite?

I will get some exact measurements tonight and figure the gallons.

Also, on my 60sqft FNs plus De filter, how much de needs to be added when I completely clean the filter. Also after back washing I have read that usually you may deplete 20% of the DE there fore it needs to be readded. I have been adding 6lbs(6de scoops) after a full clean. Then after backwash usually 1.5 to 2 scoops. The other issue I have and it may be until I get the pool back up to par is that after a full clean my filter pressure is usually at 20-25. A few hours later its already 35. Yes it's full of algae and leaves but I may need a new guage to make sure it's right. What do you think?

 

[bmalouf]

Also I have a new problem. Today at around 12pm I filled the pool to right below the overflow drain. I then cleaned the de Filter and started everything back up. I could not tell a difference in the water level. I came back at 4 pm it was down 3/4 of an inch. I think I could possibly have a leak. The odd thing is that the pool level was right below the top entrance step throughout the winter. So it could possible be in the plumbing?

 

[Richard320]

Also I have a new problem. Today at around 12pm I filled the pool to right below the overflow drain. I then cleaned the de Filter and started everything back up. I could not tell a difference in the water level. I came back at 4 pm it was down 3/4 of an inch. I think I could possibly have a leak. The odd thing is that the pool level was right below the top entrance step throughout the winter. So it could possible be in the plumbing?

Some of that could be from refilling all the pipes and filter. Also, wind has a huge effect on evaporation - more than temperature in my experience.

Keep monitoring. Look for air bubbles in the pump basket or building up inside the filter (air comes out when bleeder is opened) or any muddy spots on the ground around the pool.

 

[harleysilo]

Thanks for the pics! You at gOnna be happy in a couple weeks!

 

[Smykowski]

CYA is not raised with bleach.

CYA is sold as either stabilizer or conditioner. Powdered form is cheaper but just as effective as liquid form. Just make sure to check the label, you're looking for the highest level (preferably 100%) of cyanuric acid.

Put it in an old athletic sock or nylon, and hang it in front of a return. Give it a few good squeezes whenever you can to help the dissolving process along.

 

[bmalouf]

So i did some searching today and found my leak. My backwash line runs into the tree line of my property about 30' away from the equipment. The sight glass on the pipe is so yellow you cannot see what is passing through it. It turned out that my backwash valve is damaged internally sprung a severe leak. I figured it out after my last backwash and my pump would not prime. New valve in morning and back on with the progress!! Unfortunately she had to be shut down for the night. I hope 12 hours of no circulation doesn't hurt me. Updates to come!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

No real problems with calcium test but just seemed like it was a high number and I had to add a lot of drops to get the results. I will do a retest and now that I have the extended instructions I am more clear on things.

A few questions, just to be clear. So it takes bleach to raise CYA? And on the brushing will a nylon brush do or do I need a nylon with stainless bristles for the diamond brite?

I will get some exact measurements tonight and figure the gallons.

Also, on my 60sqft FNs plus De filter, how much de needs to be added when I completely clean the filter. Also after back washing I have read that usually you may deplete 20% of the DE there fore it needs to be readded. I have been adding 6lbs(6de scoops) after a full clean. Then after backwash usually 1.5 to 2 scoops. The other issue I have and it may be until I get the pool back up to par is that after a full clean my filter pressure is usually at 20-25. A few hours later its already 35. Yes it's full of algae and leaves but I may need a new guage to make sure it's right. What do you think?

Get the combo brush.

Bleach does not raise CYA, CYA/aka Stabilizer/Conditioner - Cyanuric Acid raises CYA.

You are adding the correct amount of DE and the PSI sounds correct to me... with water that looks like that a pressure rise that fast is normal. You will go through ALOT of DE during this time. The manual gives a recommendation of how many backwashes between full cleaning is recommending - follow their recommendation.