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Thread: Foreclosure Swamp

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    Foreclosure Swamp

    Hello everyone. I recently purchased a foreclosure home that has a pool in the backyard. Power to the pool was shut down approximately 1 year ago and the pool has sat uncovered since then until about 2 months ago. The home went to HUD and once it changed hands again HUD covered it with 2x6's, hog wire, and black plastic. The pool sat all fall and winter uncovered which all the fall leaves and debris went right into the pool. I have been frequenting this forum for quite awhile. I am a first time pool owner and I am going to attempt to get this thing up and going. A little history on the pool. I was able to find the builder of the pool. The pool was built in 2007 and as far as my knowledge has had very little issues since then. The pool was in great looking condition before the home was foreclosed on. According to the builder it is about 35,000 gallons. I am removing the cover tomorrow and will be able to take measurements to get a better idea on the capacity. The builder also stated that the plaster was Diamond Brite and the color was Caribbean Blue. I believe the builder is more so a sub it out type of builder so I really only got the basics. The pool has all Pentair equipment (60sqft FNS plus, 2 2.5hp whisperflows, 1 3/4hp booster pump, I believe a 400,000 btu Minimax NT, a polaris spa blower, and all controls are on manual timers). The pool at this point is a deep green/black but with some clarity. It is a diving pool which i believe is somewhere around 8'. In the shallow end you are able to somewhat see the leaves in the bottom. In the deep end with a light you can see probably close to 3-3.5' until visibility becomes zero. The pool has sat roughly close to a year with minimal water loss. Starting tomorrow we will get the cover off and start getting the leaves and debris out of the bottom. Once that is done we will start the chemical process. I ordered a TFT100 kit and received it this afternoon. I will get a water test in the morning and post the results. The Diamond Brite has a lot of algae build u on it and I hope it does not stain. The pool equipment has a lot of leaves around it which will be cleaned out also. This pool has a manual ball valve at the equipment which I believe is also controlled with the sprinkler system to fill the pool. One other concern I have is that leaves and debris have been falling into the heater vent since the heater has been there. I plan on pulling the cover and vacuuming it out to clear it to run a test on the unit. I have learned a wealth of knowledge from this site and always enjoyed the swamp posts. If you have any suggestions or see that I should do something different please send it my way. I will keep you updated on the progress as we are excited to get this pool up and running!!! More pictures to come tomorrow as we remove the cover. Thanks, Bryan

    Pool from Roof






    Equipment Pad








    plaster(Diamond Brite??)








    IG w/ raised spa
    All Pentair equipment, Pentair DE FNS Plus 60 sqft, 2 Pentair 2.5HP Whisper-flow Pumps, Pentair 320 Chlorinator,Pentair MiniMax NT (400,000 btu?), 3/4 hp booster pump with polaris 3900, Manual timer with no automation, & Diamond Brite (Caribbean Blue? according to builder)....And TF100 XL Test Kit!

  2. Back To Top    #2
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Welcome to tfp, bmalouf

    Looks like you have been a lurker for awhile

    That sure doesn't look like 35000 gallons to me. I would guess it's less than 20000 (maybe a lot less). Post some dimensions and we can help estimate.

    Let us know what questions you have!
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Welcome to tfp, bmalouf

    Looks like you have been a lurker for awhile

    That sure doesn't look like 35000 gallons to me. I would guess it's less than 20000 (maybe a lot less). Post some dimensions and we can help estimate.

    Let us know what questions you have!

    When he told me that i thought it seemed rather high. I will get dimensions, test results and pictures with the cover off tomorrow. Thanks for the help!!
    IG w/ raised spa
    All Pentair equipment, Pentair DE FNS Plus 60 sqft, 2 Pentair 2.5HP Whisper-flow Pumps, Pentair 320 Chlorinator,Pentair MiniMax NT (400,000 btu?), 3/4 hp booster pump with polaris 3900, Manual timer with no automation, & Diamond Brite (Caribbean Blue? according to builder)....And TF100 XL Test Kit!

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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Best of luck. Can't wait to follow your post.

    Sandy
    24,000 20x42 double roman end in ground pool being built. Start date june13, 2012.
    Finished July 4th, 2012, sports pool, vinyl,SWG, DE filter, fountains. Heat pump,
    First Pool Ever!

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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Welcome to TFP!

    First things first. Get the cover off, scoop out the mess, top it off, and fire up the pump. Once you have confirmed that water is moving like it should be, you can then test and balance your water.

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Ya what Mag said - don't bother testing till you can get the water circulating. You can do it, and I'm gonna enjoy the Pool Porn (pics of the process lol)
    BTW - you were lucky - I have renovated several foreclosed pools around here and almost every situation some or all of the equipment was poached before home was purchased by new owner.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Another green swamp to blue oasis thread....EXCELLENT!

    Keep 'em coming...and good luck...

    Best,

    Sciz
    Completed March 1, 2013. 12,500 gallon IG Lagoon Style w/swimout, walk-in steps, 15' x 30' x 3' - 5', Gunite, Wet Edge Technologies, Pebble Sheen - Northshore Tahoe, 2" Tennessee Fieldstone Coping, Belgard Country Blend Pavers, 1.5 HP Superflo, 19" Tagelus Filter, IC-20 SWCG.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp



    This ought to be fun to watch. That yard looks like it has the potential to be Shangri-la.

    Party at bmalouf's house when it's up and running!
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Patrick_B's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Ill be anxious to see how this goes. Looks like a fun one to follow and I wish you luck.
    TFP Moderator
    Essential Links:
    ABC's Of Pool Chemistry, Test Kits, SLAM Your Pool
    28K Gal IG FreeForm, CLI Quartz, Pentair 36"SF & VS Pump, Dolphin M5, Rheem

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Ok...It's been a busy past few days. We got the cover off and started getting the leaves out of the pool. Boy what a job that was. I got several wheel barrow loads out. I broke 3 pool poles in the process. The spa was mostly drained down so i got the water and leaves out of it. Once the water to the property was turned on we realized we had a water leak. Luckily it was not in the home but it was the fill valve at the pool equipment. I replaced it and then put a sprinkler valve inline(since there is not an auto fill) so this summer I can program so much water to go into the pool during the hottest months. Once that was replaced the refill began. Cleaned all the skimmers and pulled the DE filter apart to make sure all was ok. Once got as much debris and trash out as I could I started everything up. To my surprise everything worked like a charm. One of my Jandy check valves were bad so I replaced the front cover due to a crack causing a small leak. My spa jet booster and water fall pump spays water out the where the motor housing joins the pump housing. I am assuming there is a bad o ring there or seal. It is only momentarily upon startup but stops after about 5 seconds. Over the past 2 days the filter had to be backwashed many times and I have had to pull it apart and washed the grids at-least 4 times so far. Heres where I am not understanding things. I began with bleach. Lots of it. I used Clorox 8.25% That I bought from Sams. My starting chlorine was 0. We got up to 5 the first day. the next morning it was down to 1. I added more bleach and increased it back to 4. At this point my current test numbers are below after this morning. I need to know where to go from here. My other issue is that I cannot figure out how to do the CYA test correctly. I cannot get the black dot to disappear as the instructions say. I also believe there are more leaves on the bottom of the pool. I am going to buy a good pole today so I quit breaking them to get the leaves out. At this point I have the main drains off and I am pulling from the skimmers(2) and a wall suction that is used for the spa waterfall and fountain. The reason is i don't want any leaves on the bottom in the deep end to clog something. this morning the pool is still pretty green but I can now slightly see the second step in the shallow end. Every time i pull the filter apart it is filled with green mush(assuming dead algae) and its cleaning slowly but surely.

    Test Results

    K1000
    PH 7.2
    CL 2

    TFT Kit
    CL drop test
    FC 2
    CC 10.5
    Total Alkalinity 150
    CH 500? not sure if accurate
    CYA cannot figure out test

    Pics








    Refilling pool through spa(pump not on at this point)


    Running



    where leak was










    Oh and by the way don't hold your phone with you shoulder to you ear while trying to dip leaves out of the pool. it will hit the ground and bounce into the pool.......Iphone 5 totally ruined...

    All i have for now
    IG w/ raised spa
    All Pentair equipment, Pentair DE FNS Plus 60 sqft, 2 Pentair 2.5HP Whisper-flow Pumps, Pentair 320 Chlorinator,Pentair MiniMax NT (400,000 btu?), 3/4 hp booster pump with polaris 3900, Manual timer with no automation, & Diamond Brite (Caribbean Blue? according to builder)....And TF100 XL Test Kit!

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    If the black dot doesn't disappear and the tube is full then you effectively have CYA of zero. Target the FC using bleach to continue the shock process and keep it there. You may want to test FC every couple hours or multiple times a day as you're going to need a lot of bleach. The CC of 10.5 means the bleach is really combining with all the algae in the pool.

    With zero CYA your FC will also be very quickly consumed by the sun so you can use poolcalculator to figure out how much you need to add to get to 30.

    Keep that FC up and STAY THERE at shock levels and monitored while shocking and it WILL turn around. Good that all the plumbing is working, nice pool. And keep clearing debris out of the bottom, chlorine will attack that as well. And don't forget the brushing part of the shock process.

    Sorry about the phone - I have a strict rule that my phone doesn't get within 5 feet of the pool. Ever. To this day I'm paranoid I'm going to jump in with it in my pocket one of these days.

    One last thing, if your FC is below 10 you can get a pH test done just to check and see where it's at. At shocking chlorine levels the pH test isn't accurate. A pool that size is going to take a LOT of bleach.
    18x36 inground vinyl lined, Hayward sand filter and tablet chrolinator, approx 18k gallon

  12. Back To Top    #12
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Looks like you are making great progress, that pool structure sure looks nice. Great news on the equipment!

    Quote Originally Posted by bmalouf
    My other issue is that I cannot figure out how to do the CYA test correctly. I cannot get the black dot to disappear as the instructions say.
    Probably means your cya is near 0, which seems possible if the pool has been unmaintained for awhile, especially if you CC test is right. You may want to pick up an ammonia test kit at a local fish store, since when cya breaks down one of the products is ammonia. Either way, chlorine and lots of it is what is needed to break it down.

    Speaking of cya, you need to get some in there to protect your chlorine from the sun. I would shoot for 20 ppm cya while doing the shocking process.

    Speaking of the shocking process, You want to keep your FC level at/lightly above 10 ppm (for 0 cya per poolcalculator.com) as much as possible. Since you are likely getting rid of ammonia in addition to other organics and algae in the pool, this is going to take a lot of bleach/liquid chlorine and the more often you can test and dose the better (hourly if possible).

    You still need to get your pool volume figured out for dosing purposes, so post some dimensions and we can help.

    And keep getting as much stuff as the leaf net will get off the bottom of the pool...it will also use up your chlorine.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  13. Back To Top    #13
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    One other thing, you said you had trouble with the CH test? What problem? It might help to review the extended test kit directions. If your CH is that high or even higher, then a partial drain/refill might make sense at this point. Also, doing a test on your fill water ph, TA, and CH might be helpful.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    No real problems with calcium test but just seemed like it was a high number and I had to add a lot of drops to get the results. I will do a retest and now that I have the extended instructions I am more clear on things.

    A few questions, just to be clear. So it takes bleach to raise CYA? And on the brushing will a nylon brush do or do I need a nylon with stainless bristles for the diamond brite?

    I will get some exact measurements tonight and figure the gallons.

    Also, on my 60sqft FNs plus De filter, how much de needs to be added when I completely clean the filter. Also after back washing I have read that usually you may deplete 20% of the DE there fore it needs to be readded. I have been adding 6lbs(6de scoops) after a full clean. Then after backwash usually 1.5 to 2 scoops. The other issue I have and it may be until I get the pool back up to par is that after a full clean my filter pressure is usually at 20-25. A few hours later its already 35. Yes it's full of algae and leaves but I may need a new guage to make sure it's right. What do you think?
    IG w/ raised spa
    All Pentair equipment, Pentair DE FNS Plus 60 sqft, 2 Pentair 2.5HP Whisper-flow Pumps, Pentair 320 Chlorinator,Pentair MiniMax NT (400,000 btu?), 3/4 hp booster pump with polaris 3900, Manual timer with no automation, & Diamond Brite (Caribbean Blue? according to builder)....And TF100 XL Test Kit!

  15. Back To Top    #15

    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Also I have a new problem. Today at around 12pm I filled the pool to right below the overflow drain. I then cleaned the de Filter and started everything back up. I could not tell a difference in the water level. I came back at 4 pm it was down 3/4 of an inch. I think I could possibly have a leak. The odd thing is that the pool level was right below the top entrance step throughout the winter. So it could possible be in the plumbing?
    IG w/ raised spa
    All Pentair equipment, Pentair DE FNS Plus 60 sqft, 2 Pentair 2.5HP Whisper-flow Pumps, Pentair 320 Chlorinator,Pentair MiniMax NT (400,000 btu?), 3/4 hp booster pump with polaris 3900, Manual timer with no automation, & Diamond Brite (Caribbean Blue? according to builder)....And TF100 XL Test Kit!

  16. Back To Top    #16
    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Quote Originally Posted by bmalouf
    Also I have a new problem. Today at around 12pm I filled the pool to right below the overflow drain. I then cleaned the de Filter and started everything back up. I could not tell a difference in the water level. I came back at 4 pm it was down 3/4 of an inch. I think I could possibly have a leak. The odd thing is that the pool level was right below the top entrance step throughout the winter. So it could possible be in the plumbing?
    Some of that could be from refilling all the pipes and filter. Also, wind has a huge effect on evaporation - more than temperature in my experience.

    Keep monitoring. Look for air bubbles in the pump basket or building up inside the filter (air comes out when bleeder is opened) or any muddy spots on the ground around the pool.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

  17. Back To Top    #17
    harleysilo's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Thanks for the pics! You at gOnna be happy in a couple weeks!
    18'x43' Sport Pool
    19,000 Gallons Vinyl Liner 3'-3.5'-4'
    SWCG and D.E. Filter
    Test Kits - Pool Calculator - Chlorine/CYA Chart - Pool School

    Secret Weapon for Pool Chemistry Testing

  18. Back To Top    #18
    Smykowski's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    CYA is not raised with bleach.

    CYA is sold as either stabilizer or conditioner. Powdered form is cheaper but just as effective as liquid form. Just make sure to check the label, you're looking for the highest level (preferably 100%) of cyanuric acid.

    Put it in an old athletic sock or nylon, and hang it in front of a return. Give it a few good squeezes whenever you can to help the dissolving process along.
    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
    The most important article on this site - The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

  19. Back To Top    #19

    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    So i did some searching today and found my leak. My backwash line runs into the tree line of my property about 30' away from the equipment. The sight glass on the pipe is so yellow you cannot see what is passing through it. It turned out that my backwash valve is damaged internally sprung a severe leak. I figured it out after my last backwash and my pump would not prime. New valve in morning and back on with the progress!! Unfortunately she had to be shut down for the night. I hope 12 hours of no circulation doesn't hurt me. Updates to come!
    IG w/ raised spa
    All Pentair equipment, Pentair DE FNS Plus 60 sqft, 2 Pentair 2.5HP Whisper-flow Pumps, Pentair 320 Chlorinator,Pentair MiniMax NT (400,000 btu?), 3/4 hp booster pump with polaris 3900, Manual timer with no automation, & Diamond Brite (Caribbean Blue? according to builder)....And TF100 XL Test Kit!

  20. Back To Top    #20
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Foreclosure Swamp

    Quote Originally Posted by bmalouf
    No real problems with calcium test but just seemed like it was a high number and I had to add a lot of drops to get the results. I will do a retest and now that I have the extended instructions I am more clear on things.

    A few questions, just to be clear. So it takes bleach to raise CYA? And on the brushing will a nylon brush do or do I need a nylon with stainless bristles for the diamond brite?

    I will get some exact measurements tonight and figure the gallons.

    Also, on my 60sqft FNs plus De filter, how much de needs to be added when I completely clean the filter. Also after back washing I have read that usually you may deplete 20% of the DE there fore it needs to be readded. I have been adding 6lbs(6de scoops) after a full clean. Then after backwash usually 1.5 to 2 scoops. The other issue I have and it may be until I get the pool back up to par is that after a full clean my filter pressure is usually at 20-25. A few hours later its already 35. Yes it's full of algae and leaves but I may need a new guage to make sure it's right. What do you think?
    Get the combo brush.

    Bleach does not raise CYA, CYA/aka Stabilizer/Conditioner - Cyanuric Acid raises CYA.

    You are adding the correct amount of DE and the PSI sounds correct to me... with water that looks like that a pressure rise that fast is normal. You will go through ALOT of DE during this time. The manual gives a recommendation of how many backwashes between full cleaning is recommending - follow their recommendation.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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