Vacuum while shocking

Jun 5, 2012
21
Sims, NC
Should I run the automatic vacuum while shocking the pool? I think I've read about everything that goes along with turning the green swamp to crystal clear water but I haven't seen where this is a good idea or bad.

FC-0
CC-0
TC-0
TA-70
CH-100
CYA-40

Pool calculator says 339 oz of 8.25% bleach. So I just spread this throughout the pool and then test the FC every 30 min adding more bleach if needed to keep it at shock level (15)?
 
Be aware that plastic components of your automatic cleaner may become brittle and more prone to cracking and it may bleach the color from the plastic housing, making it look dull and chalky. For the relatively short period of time that the shock process represents, manually vacuuming a pool a few times with a $39 pole mounted vacuum head would possibly be better than risking damage to a $400+ automatic vacuum. Just my opinion.
 
How many days should I keep it at shock level? Everytime I vacuum now its just pine straw a some dirt. The pine straw maybe fresh being we are still having winds daily so I'm thinking its blowing in the pool. The water is blue but I can't see the bottom yet. The numbers seem to hold overnight, FC lost 1 overnight last night and .5 the night before. Been holding it at shock level since mid afternoon on Monday.

My current numbers are
FC-16
CC- 1
TC- 17
TA- 80
CH- 60
CYA- 30
 
Keep it at shock level until your water is clear, you have no more than 0.5 CC, and you lose no more than 1 FC overnight. Run filter 24/7 until clear.
 
The past few nights my OCLT has passed with 0.5 cc. Would it be ok to turn on the SWG to keep chlorine up or just keep pouring bleach to maintain shock level during the day? It looks a little better each day, but water is still cloudy.
 
Slickster said:
The past few nights my OCLT has passed with 0.5 cc. Would it be ok to turn on the SWG to keep chlorine up or just keep pouring bleach to maintain shock level during the day? It looks a little better each day, but water is still cloudy.
Can you clarify that first statement? You only lost .5 FC or you only read .5 CC? Because there are two separate tests involved.

If you're not losing FC overnight AND CC is .5 or less, then I'd say, yeah, fire up the SWG. It doesn't matter whether FC comes from a jug or the SWG makes its own as long as it's in there. Sand filters are notoriously slow to clear the fine debris after the shock process. You might try adding some DE to the filter to speed it along - provided the other two signs that the shock process is complete have passed.
 
Okay you've passed the overnight loss test. Sucks that its still cloudy. Have you tried adding DE to the sand? Instructions are in Pool School - the alternative to DE is clarifier. Sometimes it can take awhile for sand to clear up the water. But the fact your FC is holding is a good sign you are close to being done. Yes, you can turn the swg on to help maintain shock level while you work on achieving the third criteria to know when you are "done shocking" - clear water.
 

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Lowes or the local pool store didn't have any DE. The pool store can order it but they did have Pro Team dry clarifier, $10. Looks to work about the same way as DE. Anyone ever used it? I actually bought some and put in skimmer per directions on the bag. If it's no good guess the pool store got me for $10, not the first I've ever wasted.
 
I've been keeping an eye on the psi gauge the since yesterday and it don't seem to be rising. It just stays on 19. I still backwash but shouldn't it be going up as it's clearing the water? I looked at it a little while ago and the site glass only was half full of water, I backwashed and it filled back up. I thought I read in another topic of someone having problems with the valve on top not working right, could that be a problem also? Only had the pool a year, don't believe it should be messed up. Maybe my POP is running thin.
 

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