Have been reading about bbb method over the winter in preparation for use this season. Purchasing my k-2006 kit. I see it with and without the "Pool and spa chemistry book". $62 with freight for kit with book vs $53 freight free for kit without book. This site seems to have more searchable information than any book could contain, so I figured it was not needed. Perhaps I will put my savings towards membership....only fair. Thanks, Bill
Buying my kit
- Thread starter bill4106
- Start date
Just get the TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net/Test-Kits-c4/ It's more in line with what you need. Even if you want the K-2006 it's cheaper there than what you are quoting.
The TF100 is the same exact reagents as in the K-2006, minus the acid demand and base demand tests, which you don't need if you use the pool calculator. The TF100 also comes with better quantities of stuff, like the CYA reagent. The K-2006 comes with enough for only about 6 tests, and then it's time for refills, while the TF100 has enough for about 15.
Richard320 said:
So, the TF100 is about $83.00 with freight. What refills would I need with the K-2006 to increase my tests? Thanks for your time, just trying to compare apples to apples. Below is a list of reagents in K-2006 kit from their website. Which ones would be best to include in my initial order to increase my tests until I need reorder? Thanks, Bill
R-0003-A DPD RGT #3; .75 OZ DB 1
R-0004-A PH IND SOL (PR);.75OZ DB 1
R-0005-A ACID DEMAND RGT (ADR);.75O 1
R-0006-A BASE DEMAND RGT (BDR);.75O 1
R-0007-A THIOSULFATE N/10; .75 OZ 1
R-0008-A TOT ALK IND; .75 OZ DB 1
R-0009-A SULFURIC ACID .12N; .75 OZ 1
R-0010-A CALCIUM BUFF; .75 OZ DB 1
R-0011L-A CALCIUM IND LIQ; .75 OZ DB 1
R-0012-A HARDNESS RGT; .75 OZ DB 1
R-0013-A CYA RGT;.75OZ DB 2
R-0870-I DPD PDR; 10 GM V 1
R-0871-A FAS-DPD TTR''G RGT; .75 OZ 1
Look at the link in my signature and you can see the difference in sizes of the reagents between the 2 kits.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
This may be hard for someone without experience with pool test kits to understand, so I will try to keep this example simple, many tests you run require adding drops of more than one reagent to your water sample, often it will be something like 3 drops of reagent A then X drops of reagent B where X turns times .5 turns into your level count. So running one test may take 3 drops of reagent A and 15 drops of B, the TF-100 is set up to give you larger bottles of those reagents you tend to use most, where the K-2006 uses all the same size bottles which makes for a neater looking presentation, but does not really make much sense having the same size bottle that you use 3 drops from vs 50 drops from for each test, hence we get to the very low count limit on the CYA test which requires a 50/50 mix of water and reagent to be poured into a view tube
Thank You, So, which reagents would I be using daily or frequently? I assume the powder and titrant for the Free Chlorine test and also the CYA test?
Anything else used daily or frequently?
Thanks, Bill
Anything else used daily or frequently?
Thanks, Bill
Here is a basic schedule:
pool-school/basic_pool_care_schedule
Daily: pH and FC / CC
Weekly: TA, maybe CH
Monthly: CYA, maybe CH
Just save the hassle and get the TF100
Did we mention it comes with a 18 month warranty?
Consider the SpeedStir option as well, with either kit you get.
pool-school/basic_pool_care_schedule
Daily: pH and FC / CC
Weekly: TA, maybe CH
Monthly: CYA, maybe CH
Just save the hassle and get the TF100
Did we mention it comes with a 18 month warranty?
Consider the SpeedStir option as well, with either kit you get.
If you have high CYA, you'll use a lot of the test powders for FC. Otherwise the OTO tester is generally good enough for daily use. In time, you'll learn your pool's appetite for chlorine so careful monitoring is not that critical.bill4106 said:
And if you live in a hard water area, like me, you'll use huge quantities of the R-0012 Calcium test.
You WILL use a lot of all the reagents at first, because you'll get obsessed with your Junior Chemist Play Set and might catch sparklypoolitis as well. :lol:
The link Jason gave is a good starting point guideline, but how much you will use once you get to know your pool will vary a great deal from pool to pool, region to region, I am lucky enough to have fairly soft, fairly stable water that rarely needs any adjustment other than FC, so my testing schedule goes something like, test for FC every 2 or 3 days using the FAS-DPD test (I rarely use the OTO test as I prefer to have the added information), pH is tested every 2-3 weeks, the rest is every 2-3 months during swim season. This works for me because my fill water is soft (CH of around 50-60) and my pH drifts very little, I use about a quart per year of muriatic acid, by comparison someone in a high CH area like Richard where the fill water may have a CH of 300 or more, or someone that goes through gallons of acid every week will need to test pH and CH much more frequently.
Isaac-1 said:
My water is hard, but I find that I rarely add water to the pool during the season. I have not tested the hardness of the water so don't have specifics. I say my water is hard as my house needs a water softener to be able to tolerate the hardness for daily use.My region is the Chicago Suburbs. I appreciate the feedback, I decided to order the TIF100 kit to get started.
Especially since you won't need it so much as to put a strain on it, I would use the softened water as a fill source for the pool. That will eventually lower your CH down to manageable if it turns out CH is higher than you want.
bill4106 said:
People on here dont seem to like the acid demand/base demand test of the 2006, but I rely on them extensively. Everytime I test pH I run the acid demand. It basically converts drops of acid into ounces of acid you have to add to the pool. I find the pool calculator doesnt work for me because the colors of the pH test often make it hard to tell the exact pH.
I have had to buy more powder, 0871 reagent and the CYA reagent (I bought a huge bottle of that).
the tests I run the most are pH and FC/CC (every day at first and now about once a week). I dont really do CYA on a schedule, but I noticed my FC was going close to zero every day recently. I measured CYA and it had dropped to <20. I added two pounds, measured again. Added 1 pound, measured again etc. Now will need to add probably 4 more pounds. this eats CYA test reagent pretty fast.
This is the second time it has happened in 12 months. Not sure how Im losing my CYA but it could be related to a skimmer leak they recently fixed. I doubt that it was leaking the entire pool contents in 6 months though.