High PSI on my DE Filter

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J

jrocksinc

0
Apr 22, 2013
48
Virginia Beach
Hi all,

I have an in ground 22,000 gallon salt water pool. Took my water sample to local pool store and started to balance everything. I have added shock, DE, and salt so far. After DE was added pool filter was running fine (even with Polaris running). PSI started around 15. After about 4-6 hrs of running my PSI jumped to 20 then 23 and I shut the filter off, back washed and re applied DE. Turn the filter back on and the PSI goes directly to 20. Is this safe? The PSI jumps so fast it sounds like the filter is actually makes a "cracking" type noise momentarily. Any ideas what the problem could be or suggestions?
 
Welcome to TFP!

How does your water look? DE filters can need frequent backwashing and cleaning if the water is even a little bit dirty.

Have you disassembled the filter for a thorough cleaning? DE or other debris can get caked inside the filter and may not always clean out during a backwash.
 
Sounds like the filter is working overtime to clean out the crud and loading up. I'd at least pull the top of the tank and see how full the grids are. This picture is what mine looked like after the prescribed two minute backwash. the water was coming out clear:
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This is from a year or so later, after using fiberclear instead of DE
file.php

There was a lot stuck between the grids as well

I just pop the top and get in there with a spray nozzle while the backwash valve (it's underneath) is open and knock it all off.

A tip I got here: Backwash, open air bleed, let it drain. Close backwash valve and air bleed. Remove clamp. Turn the pump on for just a second. Air pressure will pop the top off. No prying or wrestling required. Open backwash valve and start hosing. Be sure a) the tank is empty before you try blowing the lid, b) you kill the pump as soon as it lifts loose, c) you stand back. It's amazing how fast the pump can fill things without any resistance!
 
jrocksinc said:
ill give it a shot when I get home in about 6 hrs. I was thinking the same thing. After I clear the filter/grid how much DE so I re apply? same amount as starting from scratch again?
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Yes, when the grids are totally clear, it's the same as a fresh fill. If it's just a backwash, no disassembly, reload it with 80%


use-and-care-for-de-filters-t4086.html
 
jrocksinc said:
ill give it a shot when I get home in about 6 hrs. I was thinking the same thing. After I clear the filter/grid how much DE so I re apply? same amount as starting from scratch again?
Click to expand...

If you pull the grid and rinse/wash it and then reassemble you should add via the skimmer the full amount of DE that your filter requires. And then after each subsequent backwash it is recommended to add 80% of the full amount required by your filter. The logic being 20% stays in it after backwashing.

I cleaned mine earlier this last month and it was NASTY. When you cleaned your last year did you do the dishwasher soap soak and subsequent Acid bath? I was amazed at the difference after i got it clean meaning just appearance of the filter.
 
jrocksinc said:
should i back wash you think or clean out the filter completely and start over?
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Did you find it to be a chore last time, or no big deal? I think after doing it once that my opinion is it is not as big of deal as i thought it was going to be. I don't like the not knowing if 20% remained, or 10% remained, or 50% remained after backwashing. I would probably open it up and look after backwashing so i could see how mush was left....
 

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While dealing with algae, a good strategy for a DE filter is to run it on filter while you are home and can clean it regularly, then switch to recirculate while you are away so it keeps moving water. Also be sure to maintain chlorine levels or the filter will never catch up with the algae.
 
I highly recommend you read the links that John posted ... and all of Pool School (button at the upper right of page) If you do not kill the algae completely, you will never get the pool clear.

To do this properly, you need one of the recommended test kits and take control of the pool yourself and not rely on "free testing" that often ends up costing $100s for things you do not actually need.
 
Other than being able to see it, the OCLT is the best way. Raise you pool up to the corresponding shock level for you current cya level (see: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool), then make sure you have your swg off overnight during the test. If you loose less than 1 ppm FC overnight (and your water is crystal clear and you don't have CC >0.5 ppm), you can be fairly certain there is nothing growing in the pool.
 
jrocksinc said:
I did read them and had done most of the steps upon opening. This could be a beginner question.. But how can I tell if there is algae in the pool?
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It's green (or brown, or black) and/or

There's green stuff on the walls and/or

The water is murky and/or

There's piles of fluffy stuff sort of like dust bunnies in drifts on the bottom of the pool and they disintegrate into nothingness when you try to brush or vacuum them.

The surefire test is the overnight chlorine loss test. Chlorine is depleted by two things: sunlight and organic matter (algae). So you test the FC after the sun stops beating on the pool and recheck it again before the sun starts beating on it again and you've ruled out any losses due to sunlight.
 

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