New House - 1st Pool

ChrisNorcal

0
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 13, 2013
13
Roseville, CA
I just bought a house, short sale, with a pool and since I’ve never owned a pool before I was doing some research and found this website. First off let me say, this doesn’t look to hard and with the help of TFP I’m sure it’ll be easy. Besides I love to tinker with things and this looks like a fun new project and I hope to save money on.

I called the pool company that had been servicing it for the past 5 years to get the history of the pool and to try and understand any nuisances. It’s a family owned company that I’d like to tip my hat off, as they never tried to hard sell me. In fact it seemed like they didn’t want to answer anything about pricing and encouraged me to run the pool and call them if I have any problems. They also said that they always encourage pool owners to do as much as they can themselves. They are always available to help if needed, I'm sure they get most of their customers via this method though.

They showed me everything pointing out things to watch for. The best thing they said was that no matter what the local pool store says don’t do it. Call them and they can come out and take a look and let you know what really needs to be done but usually if you get your CYA, chlorine and PH in level you shouldn’t have any problems. In fact they recommended to just add bleach if your chlorine is really low as it is healthier for the water.

They explained that all of the chemical tests (FC=2, pH=7.2, TA=90, CH=210, CYA=150) they ran and said that since the last servicing over 90 days ago, the pool is surprisingly in perfect shape. They recommended that I get a bigger leaf basket with a net and that the filter will need to be replaced soon (more about that later). The pool has solar but hasn’t been used in the past 5 years due to a failed pump. As far as they know, that is all that is wrong with it.

They estimate the pool size is around 16-18k gallons and everything looks great. Our home inspector said that since the pool was over 15 years old it looks like it is in great shape. None of the gunite is showing and the water line is level all around the pool. He also said that whoever is maintaining it seems to be doing a good job as the calcium deposits look like they are minimal.

About the pool:

It’s kidney shaped pool that has a A.O. Smith 1/2hp pump and a Hayward Super Star-Clear filter. It also has a booster pump, A.O. Smith 1 HP pump that isn’t working to run the solar.

I’ve done some research and the pool service said that I should change it to a VS pump and should be able to run everything from one. Since the main pump is working now, I’m not going to change anything just yet. I’d have to upgrade all of the timers to run everything from one and I’m not quite sure if it’s a good idea yet.

The filter I was informed will need to be replaced soon. Mostly because the unit has two defects, bolts that hold the strap to keep the top on become stripped and the manifold tends to crack where the pegs hold it up. I had them clean it out since it was due and wanted to make sure I knew how to do it.

They showed me where the bolts are stripping and they mentioned that nobody makes these anymore. Since mine are about a ¼ stripped they said that I should be careful as they have been known to pop off and the top will be like a rocket if it fails. They also showed where the manifold is starting to show weakness but all in all it is running and should be good for at least 6 months.

They also explained the pool sweep and that it should be at about 10-12 revolutions per a minute and how to adjust it if it isn’t.

I purchased TF-100 test kit from my local pool store and removed the tablet unit from the pool. While I was at the pool store I had them test my water and below is what they read:

FC-4.96
TC-5.14
CC-.18
pH-7.5
CA-219
TA-92
CYA-181

Came home and tested it with the kit and

FC-5.5
TC-6
CC-.5
pH-7.5
CH-Couldn’t get this to read after over 40 drops
TA-100
CYA-Can’t read since it’s off the chart


So according to pool school I need to exchange most of the water. Before I do that I wanted to confirm that is really what I should do. Also, any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to the forum. :lol:

Recheck your test results for cc's. It looks like you made a math error (cc = 1ppm??)

Did you check the FC using the smaller chlorine test in the blue plastic box or did you use the drops based FAS/DPD test that requires the powder?

Prepare to drain off some of your pool water but let's get all your tests confirmed first and then get you going. I can tell already you will be a good steward of your pool water. :-D
 
Just to clarify here in the case of "off the chart" for the CYA test that means the dot can not be seen when there is just a VERY small amount in the bottom of the tube. With the CYA test the higher the level in the tube before the dot disappears the LOWER the CYA value is, this inverse relationship can confuse some people starting out doing the test.
 
duraleigh said:
Welcome to the forum. :lol:

Recheck your test results for cc's. It looks like you made a math error (cc = 1ppm??)

Did you check the FC using the smaller chlorine test in the blue plastic box or did you use the drops based FAS/DPD test that requires the powder?

Prepare to drain off some of your pool water but let's get all your tests confirmed first and then get you going. I can tell already you will be a good steward of your pool water. :-D

Thank-you for catching that. I've edited the original post and I see where I went wrong.

I was using the FAS/DPD test for this as the blue kit shows it at or above the color chart.

I'm prepared to drain, just didn't want to because I'm not positive if I'm metered yet. If I'm not, I will be in the next couple of months. I fear the costs but if I use TFP then I'm hoping I won't need to very often. :)
 
Isaac-1 said:
Just to clarify here in the case of "off the chart" for the CYA test that means the dot can not be seen when there is just a VERY small amount in the bottom of the tube. With the CYA test the higher the level in the tube before the dot disappears the LOWER the CYA value is, this inverse relationship can confuse some people starting out doing the test.

Sorry, should have been more clear. My notes show that when the tube was being filled I didn't even make it half way to the 100 mark. I'm going to do this test again today as I'm not positive if I had my back to the sun when I did the test.
 
JohnN said:
You said you got the TF-100 from the pool store? I thought the only place to get the TF-100 is tftestkits.net or poolsupplyworld.com.

Don't know about who sells it, but I found out that they are 5 mins from my house. Since I saw their name on this forum and when I search the web I figured I'd save on shipping. Unfortunately they don't sell, I didn't ask, the XL option but I figured this will get me started for now.
 
Richard320 said:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html might help. It had directions for doing the CH test with 10ml water as well as how to test CYA when it's really high.

That was helpful. I remember reading it before but forgot about it when I got the kit, I was a little eager. I didn't let the test warm up to room temp and I'm pretty sure I didn't have my back to the sun.

I'm not a chemist but on the post mentioned for High CYA tests, 9.E, shows that you should pour out the contents so that it is at the lower label part. If that is the case why would that cause the results to be any different, as the solution is already mixed inside the container. If I dump half of it, it should still be the same ratio as half full as totally filled if I don't add additional water or solution?

I'm going to do all the tests again in a bit and will repost the results.
 

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@JohnN: I didn't either until I was looking at ordering a bunch of other stuff and saw they sold the TF-100. Then when I was checking on shipping and noticed it ships right up the street from me. Figured I'd go see them instead and had my water tested at the same time.
 
If that is the case why would that cause the results to be any different, as the solution is already mixed inside the container.
You dump 50% and then refill back to normal with tap water.....that gives you a 50% dilution. The margin for error is quite large when you do these dilutions so do it carefully and understand it is a ballpark result.
 
That's not exactly how I am reading to do the dilution. To me, it is saying this:
1) Fill bottle 1/2 way (15 mL in the TF-100?)
2) Fill bottle the rest of the way with tap water.
3) Mix contents together.
4) Pour out the water to get to the lower mark.
5) Fill the rest of the way with the CYA reagent.
It says to dilute before adding the CYA reagent, not after. I might be saying the same thing as Dave, but I am not sure. To me, it sounds like he is saying to mix the reagent and pool water, and then fill with tap water. I think either way would work, though.
 
I am pretty sure PSW only has the regular kits. Any deviation would need come from tftestkits (who sells the kits to PSW).

The way John describes the dilution is the way I have done it. But, if you did the test normal at first and realized it was high, you could dump half the mix and refill with tap water, mix and test. This should be fine if the CYA is not crazy high. There was a discussion about this somewhere previously.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Okay, So did I say I was newbie? So I don't now how, but I missed the 9.b part of tap water and originally read that as filling it with the reagent. This makes more since :hammer:

So I've ran these tests twice (sometimes 3x's)

  • FC=9.5 (19 drops)
    CC=1 (2 Drops)
    TC=10.5
    pH=7.2
    TA=80 (8 Drops)
    CH=270 (27 Drops)
    CYA=First Test half-way between bottom and 100
    CYA=180 (Using high CYA method)

So can FC really go up like this even if I haven't added anything to the pool? I pulled the tab out 3 days ago, right after getting the kit, so I figured it would go down.

According to the Pool Calculator I need to replace about 78% of my pool water. If I'm going to do that is best to do that and work on stabilizing the numbers or get to the correct numbers then drain the pool? The former seems like the wise way but figured I'd ask. Also, should go ahead and do 78% or should I do more like 65-70% and retest after filling it back up?
 
No point in doing anything chemically if you are going to drain anyway. Do you know if you groundwater is below the level of your pool? If so, I would shoot for all 75% at once.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Appreciate the info. I'll be draining it this week after I get a chance to see if I can get the solar working. Not sure what would be dumped in after 6 years of sitting.

Also, I don't think my groundwater is close to the bottom of the pool. Where would I check on that?
 
ChrisNorcal said:
Appreciate the info. I'll be draining it this week after I get a chance to see if I can get the solar working. Not sure what would be dumped in after 6 years of sitting.

Also, I don't think my groundwater is close to the bottom of the pool. Where would I check on that?
http://www.water.ca.gov/waterdatalibrary/index.cfm Look for wells nearby.
 
Sorry for not posting back earlier on this. Just wanted to say thanks a bunch for all your help.

I ended up doing about 85% dump of the pool two weeks ago and everything looks great, except my marriage took a hit. Probably will once more when the bill arrives, but I was able to get some water through our solar so she's happy for the moment.

FC=3
CC=0
PH=7.6
TA=80
CH=70
CYA=25 (Bringing up slowly with pucks)

I have so many questions that I'll ask in one of the other groups about what to do with the pump and solar system.

Just wanted to say thanks to Jason, John and Richard!!! You guys are the best.
 
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