Pump Motor Buzz

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zooming993

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Oct 7, 2009
24
Made a stupid mistake yesterday. I replaced the seals in my Hayward Super Pump and when I reassembled it I didn't realize the white 120/230 connector wasn't pressed firmly on the 220 tabs and when I put power (220) to the motor it buzzed and tripped the circuit breaker. When I opened it up I found the white 120/220 power selector connector was set between the 120 and 220 setting. Did I fry the motor or could it be something like a burn out capacitor?

Thanks for your help.
 
So what happens now when you apply the correct power?

If you have an ohm meter, you can check both the windings and the capacitor for continuity. First, disconnect the power and discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals. With the ohm meter, the capacitor will first read 0 ohms and then should clime to a very high (infinite) resistance. The windings should read 1-2 ohms.
 
mas985,

Thank you for the reply. When I apply power (220) to the motor it makes a buzzing sound but it doesn't trip the circuit breaker. For what it's worth the shaft rotates freely. I'll check the capacitor as you suggested.
 
Having a difficult time testing the capacitor. I took out what I believe is the capacitor (P/N 610807-002) but I don't see a + or - on the capacitor. I've never tested a capacitor before so I went online and it tells me I should see a + & - on the capacitor, I see nothing. The capacitor came out of a Hayward 1 1/2 HP Super Pump. There are two yellow wires and one wat/red wire connected to the capacitor. I'm using a Radio Shack 22-811 multi meter to test the capacitor.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Polarity doesn't really matter when testing (non-polar capacitor). Just test across the two terminals without the windings connected (i.e. remove wires).
 
Motor starting capacitors are non-polarized so they don't have a + or - side. Just test that the cap isn't shorted (should have no continuity across the leads when measured out of the circuit). If it is shorted (low ohm reading) then replace it.

Edit: Sorry, must have been typing at the same time as MAS985.
 
Thanks for the replies. I wasn't able to figure out how to use the ohm testing feature on the meter but I did run a continuity test. I applied the test leads to the tabs where the two yellow wires were connected and I got continuity (buzz), the meter read "Shrt". So it appears the capacitor is bad, right?
 
The capacitor will show a short initially but as it charges up, it should increase in resistance. If it doesn't increase in resistance with some time, it is probably bad.
 
Thanks to those who replied to my thread. Took the motor in to a motor repair shop yesterday and it turned out to be a bad switch. Replaced the switch and she came alive.

Thanks again for your help.
 
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