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Thread: CL levels and Nature 2?

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    CL levels and Nature 2?

    My CL levels have been low (Almost undetectable) since opening 2 weeks ago. Initially I was told my CYA was low (15) so I've added some C. Acid. then I was told my phosphates were high and was killing my CL. I added the appropriate P. Killer and now my Phosphate level is appropriate. I mentioned to the pool store that I had a nature 2 cartridge and now they say with that my CL level should be really low. Is this true? Does anyone know what level of CL is appropriate with a Nature 2 mineral cartridge?BTW I use a CL "stick" that I put the CL "hockey pucks in" and I have that on max. for added CL to the pool. I have also shocked the pool a number of times because of some alge
    35,000 gallon 800 Sq. foot gunite, 50 x 22 freeform. 2 sheer Descent waterfalls from 2 foot raised beam wall, Jandy heater, Polaris 280, 2 H.P. pump, DE 60 filter, Nature2, 2 Jandy color lights, 1000 Sq foot of Stamped concrete.

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Nature 2 is promoted as allowing you to keep lower chlorine levels. The unit itself has no effect on chlorine. It is primarily a metal based algaecide. The claims of low chlorine don't really stand up since there is little evidence that the Nature 2 has any useful effect on bacteria or viruses in pool water.

    You are being "pool stored". Phosphates don't impact chlorine levels either. You probably have some algae that is quickly consuming your chlorine. Raise the chlorine to shock level and hold it there for a few days. It should start to hold pretty quickly. Don't let it go more than four hours without checking the chlorine and adding what it takes to get back to shock level for the first day, then every eight hours until it holds overnight without the chlorine level dropping. Go to The Stickies to see what level you need to shock to.
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    I also have a Nature 2 with a brand new cartridge and my chlorine is running at about .5 ppm. I get nervous that there is not enough in there and wind up shocking it about once a week. FC jumps up above shock level and holds for a decent amount of time. No odors, crystal clear water. Probably nervous about the low level for no reason. Everything seems to be just fine. Most here seem to recommend getting rid of the Nature 2. I'm not sure if that is purely a cost reason or if most believe that it really doesn't do anything.
    18'6" x 36'6" Grecian In-ground
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    We sell N2 where I work but I am not a big fan. .5 ppm FC just doesn't leave enough residual fast acting primanry sanitizer in the water to handle things that might happen and can leave you with unstanitized water.Copper and silver have very slow kill times so they cannot handle such things as brid droppings in the pool or someone entering the water that isn't completely 'clean' after using the bathroom.
    In reality the N2 ( or any other active or passive ion device) will allow you to run about half the FC level that you would normally need to run. It is interesting that in Canada the N2 is registered as an algaecide and not a santizer and in Australia they require normal and not reduced FC levels with these type of devices so why bother?
    When you figure out how much chlorine the $200 or more a year that you are spending on replacement N2 carts can buy they just don't beocme economically sound (except for the dealer selling them!)

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    waterbear: Then would you suggest removing the nature 2 and installing an in-line chorinator? Seems like it would fit in approximately the same place.
    18'6" x 36'6" Grecian In-ground
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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    In-line chlorinators add CYA to the pool along with the chlorine. The chlorine gets used up, but the CYA level continues to go up. Eventually the CYA level gets too high and you have problems. So an in-line chlorinator isn't really a solution either. Right now the best choice is a SWG or Liquidator.
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    Guest
    I would remove the N2 and put in a piece of pipe and follow what Jason said.

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    Floater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    In-line chlorinators add CYA to the pool along with the chlorine. The chlorine gets used up, but the CYA level continues to go up. Eventually the CYA level gets too high and you have problems. So an in-line chlorinator isn't really a solution either. Right now the best choice is a SWG or Liquidator.

    Sorry...Liquidator?
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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    The Liquidator is a product designed to slowly dispense bleach into the pool any time the pump is running. The effect is very similar to a SWG, except that no salt is required and you need to refill the bleach tank occasionally.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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