Foreclosure with a mess of a pool

[wct097]

So I purchased a foreclosure with a pool that has been neglected for a while. The liner was apparently replaced in 2007, but is going to need to be replaced again. I, unfortunately, have zero experience with pools. I have a pool guy lined up to do some work. He's going to replace the liner, steps, and light. He's also going to do work to the concrete around the steps and will replace the conduit for the light. He'll also be doing maintenance to the system, checking the pipes, and generally getting me up and running.

So here is what I have:

I intend on installing a SWG and going the salt route since I'm effectively starting from scratch. I'm fairly handy with plumbing and electrical, so I think installing the SWG should be a snap. I'm thinking I should probably install some sort of timer to automatically run the pump for me as well. Based on my measurements, I'm estimating the size to be about 20k gallons. Does that sound right based on my dimensions? How should I size my SWG? And recommendations on a particular model for this application?

TIA

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, wct097

Based on my measurements, I'm estimating the size to be about 20k gallons. Does that sound right based on my dimensions?

I'm getting about 17000 gallons assuming that the water depth is 6" less then your depth measurements.

How should I size my SWG?

Pick a cell that is rated 1.5 to 3 times the volume.

 

[Isaac-1]

That is really not all that bad compared to some we have seen, mostly it needs a new liner, if possible I suggest going with a premium quality one, they do seem to last considerably longer in my experience. 6 years is a bit less than the typical life of a liner, however it is not much less than the expected life of some budget models.

Ike

 

[wct097]

So at 17k gallons, I should probably be looking for a SWG rated for 25k-50k gallons? Any suggestions on models for this application?

I'm also curious about the filling procedures. I know that I have a pool guy that will be helping, but I'm trying to understand what to expect. When he gets the liner in and has his vacuums hooked up, we bring the hose over and start filling..... when do chemicals get applied? Do we add salt as it fills, or do we wait for it to get full and get a base reading?

 

[duraleigh]

Test your tap fill water now. You will have a good idea of the things to add when the pool is full.

 

[Isaac-1]

In general the common advice given around here is to wait until after the fill and balance of the pool to add the salt and to start things off with good old bleach / liquid chlorine, then once you get everything else lined out add the salt and switch to using the SWG a few days later.

Ike


p.s. you probably also want to read over pool school in the link in the upper right a couple of times

 

[Dalandlord]

Welcome to the forum TIA. I have an autopilot Pool Pilot Digital and I am happy with it. As far as a timer for the pump it is built in. They started furnishing the relays for the pump seperately upon request for no charge, some dealers stock them and ship it with the unit and some have you request it from autopilot. When i had to replace the controller Josh with the salt pool guys, here on the forum, gave me a great price. He discounts for forum members. You can drop him an email and let him know you are from here if you are interested in anything he sells.

If you need a cell that is larger than the smaller size cell one thing I have noticed over the years is you can sometimes buy the complete unit with the small cell and then buy the larger cell, in a generic and sometimes the name name brand for about the same price or just a little more and have a backup cell for about the same money.

I like the compupool cells because they are translucent and you can tell if it is generating salt by looking at it while it is running. I have used their replacement cells with no trouble at all. You do need to have a pool pilot cell on it if you ever have a tech come out for a warranty claim.

I am sure there must be other brands that other member like and hopefully you get all the input you need to get the one that is right for you and your budget.

 

[deer hunter]

Are the steps cracked? If not they should clean up. Replacing the steps would be a task and also costly.

 

[Patrick_B]

Welcome to the forum, and good luck on your re-do.

 

[linen]

Looking at your picture of the pool again, I was struck by how good every thing looks... even the liner. Is the liner actually torn anywhere? Is it just pulled out of the bead around the edges? In the deep end under the liner, what does the vermiculite look like...is it still intact?

This is maybe folly (please someone reign me in here), but if it is in good shape...if it were my pool I would, on a sunny warm day, try putting the current liner back in the bead and attempt to fill...probably a crazy idea...

 

[jhalpinjr]

Can someone educate me on that "Flexible" looking PVC pipe in the pictures above?
Is this type of pipe OK to use? Is its durability OK? Not to hijack- But I think this would save time installing my Heat Pump.

- Jim

 

[linen]

Can someone educate me on that "Flexible" looking PVC pipe in the pictures above?
Is this type of pipe OK to use? Is its durability OK? Not to hijack- But I think this would save time installing my Heat Pump.

There are mixed reviews of using it on here, you can search the google search at the very lower left of the page. Some will say absoluty do not use, some (like me) think it has it's place.

My 2-cents (that is about all it's worth):

It can work great for the situation the op has allowing for a small amount of movement between short runs on the pad that can fix alignment issues. However, on the line that goes from the output of the pump to the input of the filter, I probably would have either gone rigid with 45's, or curved the flex without the 90. Above ground some folks say it degrades faster in the sun, and getting a reliable joint can be more challenging than the non-flex. I have not had any problems with this. On/under the ground, it is generally not recommend in areas with termites (not an issue up here in the currently great white north ) since I believe they can eat through it. Also, if a joint fails underground it can get expensive to fix. Up here, it is not uncommon for it to be used underground (I have not personally) since it can flex a little and survive the heaving that we get due to frozen ground.

 

[jhalpinjr]

Can someone educate me on that "Flexible" looking PVC pipe in the pictures above?
Is this type of pipe OK to use? Is its durability OK? Not to hijack- But I think this would save time installing my Heat Pump.

There are mixed reviews of using it on here, you can search the google search at the very lower left of the page. Some will say absoluty do not use, some (like me) think it has it's place.

My 2-cents (that is about all it's worth):

It can work great for the situation the op has allowing for a small amount of movement between short runs on the pad that can fix alignment issues. However, on the line that goes from the output of the pump to the input of the filter, I probably would have either gone rigid with 45's, or curved the flex without the 90. Above ground some folks say it degrades faster in the sun, and getting a reliable joint can be more challenging than the non-flex. I have not had any problems with this. On/under the ground, it is generally not recommend in areas with termites (not an issue up here in the currently great white north ) since I believe they can eat through it. Also, if a joint fails underground it can get expensive to fix. Up here, it is not uncommon for it to be used underground (I have not personally) since it can flex a little and survive the heaving that we get due to frozen ground.

Thank you linen!

 

[wct097]

Test your tap fill water now. You will have a good idea of the things to add when the pool is full.

Good idea. Will need to get a test kit.... in addition to EVERYTHING else. Don't have any of the pool equipment from the previous owners.

Are the steps cracked? If not they should clean up. Replacing the steps would be a task and also costly.

No, but there is a bit of flex under them. The pool guy said that I don't have to replace them, but if they cracked due to flex, that I'd basically have to pay him to re-do the liner again. I decided that it was best to just go ahead and replace them since we're having work done anyway. I think the new steps will be wider as well.

Looking at your picture of the pool again, I was struck by how good every thing looks... even the liner. Is the liner actually torn anywhere? Is it just pulled out of the bead around the edges? In the deep end under the liner, what does the vermiculite look like...is it still intact?

We didn't find any tears, but there are several places on the bottom where the liner is visibly thin and bubbled up.... looks like a brain... kind of grey and distressed, rather than the blue that it should be. The pool guy said that it's probably a type of chemical burn and that while it may hold water, that those areas are likely to be where the liner fails sooner than later. Vermiculite will need some work due to the liner hanging off and water getting under it for a couple of years.

This is maybe folly (please someone reign me in here), but if it is in good shape...if it were my pool I would, on a sunny warm day, try putting the current liner back in the bead and attempt to fill...probably a crazy idea...

I contemplated this, but I've never done pool work before and I just don't have time to deal with it on my own with all of the other stuff that I need to do around the house. It's very much still a work in progress and the wife isn't pleased with the collection of tools that are still in the master bathroom.

 

[wct097]

Welcome to the forum TIA. I have an autopilot Pool Pilot Digital and I am happy with it. As far as a timer for the pump it is built in. They started furnishing the relays for the pump seperately upon request for no charge, some dealers stock them and ship it with the unit and some have you request it from autopilot. When i had to replace the controller Josh with the salt pool guys, here on the forum, gave me a great price. He discounts for forum members. You can drop him an email and let him know you are from here if you are interested in anything he sells.

I'm looking at their website now. I'll drop them an email and see what they suggest. Am I correct in my understanding that if I go with the Pool Pilot system that I'd need to buy the 52k gallon sized unit? Does a larger capacity unit mean that my pump doesn't have to run as much or is my pump going to be the bottle neck in the system at that point?

If you need a cell that is larger than the smaller size cell one thing I have noticed over the years is you can sometimes buy the complete unit with the small cell and then buy the larger cell, in a generic and sometimes the name name brand for about the same price or just a little more and have a backup cell for about the same money.

I like the compupool cells because they are translucent and you can tell if it is generating salt by looking at it while it is running. I have used their replacement cells with no trouble at all. You do need to have a pool pilot cell on it if you ever have a tech come out for a warranty claim.

I am sure there must be other brands that other member like and hopefully you get all the input you need to get the one that is right for you and your budget.

That makes sense. I wasn't aware that you could use cells from different manufacturers in such a system.

 

[Dalandlord]

Compupool makes replacement cells for the pool pilot. The cell has to be made for your unit. You can't use just any cell from another manufacturer. If your pool is 20k I would think you would need something bigger than the smallest one if you go with the pool pilot. If prices work out to where you are going to end up with a complete unit with the small cell and buy a larger cell seperately you could always try the small one and if you are having trouble keeping up you can order the second cell afterward. They have unions on the manifold and it just slips right in.

If you are looking at the Salt pool guys website, email josh and tell him you are a member of this forum and ask for a quote. It should save you some money.

 

[wct097]

I sent a message through their site yesterday but haven't gotten a response. Is there a direct email address that I can use?

 

[harleysilo]

Hi congrats on your soon to be new pool.

My pool steps in my liner pool are shotcrete. They are padded and then covered with my liner. The liner material on the steps is the no-slip version of the pool liner. The rest of my pool is the same matching pool liner that is slick. If i (when I) replace my liner i'm going to have it made entirely of the no-slip type.

Since you are replacing your steps i'm just throwing this out as another option to think of / consider. You could get rid of the white steps permanently.

If you wanted to make any changes to the depth of your pool now would be the time to consider it.

 

[JoshU]

I sent a message through their site yesterday but haven't gotten a response. Is there a direct email address that I can use?

Sorry for the delay in responding. I just sent you back an e-mail. Please be sure to let me know when you get it.

Thanks,
Josh

 

[wct097]

It's been a while, but my pool guy has been working this week and has the liner and new steps in. Apparently the old steps were set in sand which had washed out a bit. Anyway, it's starting to look like a pool again and is being filled up now. The pool guy still has some work to but he's getting close.

My intention is to order a Pool Pilot RC-42 from Josh this week. The pool guy is going to put some chemicals in it to get me started. My understanding is that I'll be getting the chlorine up to a proper level before adding salt at which point the SWCG should maintain my FC levels. How much salt should I plan on getting for that purpose? Is that something I should buy locally or should I order it online? Anything to look for in particular in regards to the salt?